A voyage towards the South Pole, performed in the years 1822-1824 : containing an examination of the Antarctic Sea ... and a visit to Tierra del Fuego with a particular account of the inhabitants

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FROM THE GUEST

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A

VOYAGE

TOWARDS

THE SOUTH POLE,

PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1822-24.

CONTAINING

AN EXAMINATION OF THE ANTARCTIC SEA,

TO THE SEVENTY-FOURTH DEGREE OF LATITUDE:

AND

A VISIT TO TIERRA DEL FUEGO,

WITH A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE INHABITANTS.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,
MUCH USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE COASTING NAVIGATION OF
CAPE HORN, AND THE ADJACENT LANDS.

WITH CHARTS OF HARBOURS, &c.
By JAMES WEDDELL, Eso.
——

SECOND EDITION,
\ WITH OBSERVATIONS ON
THE PROBABILITY OF REACHING THE SOUTH POLE,

AND AN ACCOUNT OF

A SECOND VOYAGE PERFORMED BY THE BEAUFOY, CAPTAIN BRISBANE,
TO THE SAME SEAS.

wv
&~ LONDON:
PRINTED FOR

LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,
* PATERNOSTER-ROW.

1827.

1V DEDICATION.

ship’s administration to ascertain the Geo-
graphy of the Northern Polar Circle, he
must deem it at once a debt of gratitude
and a tribute of respect, humbly to offer
him the account of researches pursued at
the other extremity of the Globe.

J. WEDDELL.

VOYAGE

THE SOUTH POLE.

CHAPTER I..

INTRODUCTION.

Havine performed a voyage of investigation
to a higher southern latitude than has hitherto
been attained, I have thought that it might be
expedient, more especially for the benefit of
hydrography, to make public the principal oc-
currences of that voyage.

Our adventure was for procuring Fur-seal
skins, and our vessels were the brig Jane, of
Leith, of 160 tons; and the cutter Beaufoy, of
London, of 65 tons, both fitted out in the ordi-
nary way, and provisioned for two years. The
former, with a crew of twenty-two officers and
men, was under my own command; the latter,
with a crew of thirteen, .was commanded by
Mr. Matthew Brisbane.

The recent discovery of New South Shetland

B

2 INTRODUCTION.

had led to a conjecture that Sandwich Land was
a projecting point of a southern continent, or
range of land lying east and west behind the
islands of South Shetland: but this idea I found
to be entirely erroneous ; — as IJ sailed between
these lands to the latitude of 74° 15’ south, and
there left a clear and navigable sea.

It may not be improper to preface these pages
with an outline of the investigations which
have been made to the south of Cape Horn, and
within the Antaretic Circle, prior to my setting
out on this voyage.

Many navigators, in their passage round Cape
Horn, had reached the 62nd degree of south lati-
tude, but always too far to the westward for fall
ing in with the range of South Shetland, tillin the
year 1818, Mr. William Smith, of Blyth, in -his
. passage from Monte Video to Valparaiso, made,,
apparently by accident, a discovery of the islands.
which have been thus named. In an after roy-
age he had the boldness to approach. closely,
and ascertained this mass. to be land; which dis-
covery, he, with the honest feeling of an
Englishman, reported: to Captain Sheriff, the
representative of his king at Valparaiso.

The only navigators who have, to our know-
ledge, explored the sea within the Antartic Cir-
cle, are Captains Cook and Furneaux, in their
. second voyage, which was towards the South”
Pole, in the years 1778, and 1774.

INTRODUCTION. 8

On the 17th of January 1773, Captain Cook
arrived in the latitude of 67° 15’, in the longitude
of 39° east. Here he found the ice in field, firm,
and continuing as far as the eye could reach
from. the mast-head.

“ We did not think it prudent,” says he (vide
Cook’s Voyages), ‘to persevere in a southern
© direction, as that kind of summer which this
part of the world affords was now half spent,

« and. it would have taken much time tohavegone

‘“‘ round the ice, supposing it to be practicable.”

On the 2d of January 1774, Captain Cook
again arrived within the Antaitic Sea, and having
been beset with ice islands and loose ice, in the
latitude of 68° and longitude 138° west, he bore

up north-west, and re-crossed the Antatic *‘

Circle, steering various courses to the north and
east, and then to the south. On the 25th of
January he arrived for the third time within the

Frozen Zone ; and on the 30th of January had

reached the latitude of 71° 10’ S. He again
says, “ As we could not go any farther to the
“south, we thought it advisable to tack, and
¢ stand back to the north, being at this time in
ss latitude 71° 10’ and longitude 106° 54’ west ;
« happily for us we had tacked in good. time,
‘*¢ for we had no sooner done it than a thick fog
“¢ came on, which would have been highly dan-
** gerous when we fell in with the ice.”’
B®

4; INTRODUCTION.

Two Russian frigates, employed on a voyage
of discovery in the year 1821, penetrated, as it
is stated, to the 69th degree of south latitude, but
were unable to proceed farther. The particulars
of their voyage have not yet been made public in
England. |

Not expecting, at my sailing from London,
to arrive at so high a southern latitude, I had
not supplied myself with instruments which
‘would have enabled me to extend my. observ-
ations; but 1! was provided with all those in
common use of the best construction. Of chro-
nometers, I had one of eight days (No. 820.),
made by James Murray; of which I shall speak
in another place. One of two days by Murray
and Strachan, (No. 403. ) One of 24 hours also
made by Murry, and they all performed suffi-
ciently well to recommend the makers for their
very improved mechanism in this useful art. My _
azimuth compass was patent, and, as well as the
rest of my compasses, made by Mr. Alexander
of Leith. |

The great difference found in the variation, of
the needle within a short distance, about the
latitude of 70°, may be worthy of remark, and
will be mentioned in the journal as the observ-
ations were made.

Notwithstanding . the inducement to which I
have referred at the beginning of this introduc-
tion, of my being ina manner bound for the

INTRODUCTION. 5

sake of the science of hydrography, to record
the performance of this unprecedented voyage ;
I should, nevertheless, have done it only by
means of an official letter to the Honorable
Commissioners of His Majesty’s Navy, had not
the notices of foreign and unknown matters con-
tained in my notes, appeared so interesting that
the solicitations of my friends, (more particu-
larly of my co-owners in the vessels and voy-
age, John Strachan, Esq. of Edinburgh, and
James Mitchel, Esq. of London, ) prevailed with
me to carry my information to the press. I am
further persuaded of the propriety of so doing, |
from my having liad nearly two months’ expe-
rience of the navigation in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Cape Horn, which is yet but little
known: for although the cape has been rounded
times almost innumerable, yet this has always
been done at so great a distance from the land,
that no accurate accounts of its coasts and har-
bours could be obtained.

A familiar knowledge of these shores must
evidently tend to lessen the timidity which seizes
the minds of some commanders in passing this
cape; and an acquaintance with the anchor-
ages. which are safe, must render the practice of
relinquishing the passage, by bearing up along
the east coast of Patagonia, during adverse gales,
altogether unnecessary.

: BS

66 INTRODUCTION.

From my having been engaged five years, in
- Nayigating these seas, and having performed a
passage of 26 degrees of longitude direct to the
westward about the parallel of Cape Horn during
the stormy month of April, I am fully acquainted
with the perils and the conveniences of this navi-
gation, and can offer my experience with the con-
fident expectation of its being found useful.

The old and contradictory accounts which have
been given us concerning the people found about
the straits of Magellan, and the coast of Patagonia,
may be wondered at ; though the descriptions by
Commodore Byron of the enormous size of these
people, seemed to confirm all preceding State.

ments.

_ There is little doubt that tall and stout men
were seen on the coast of Patagonia by the
voyagers; but itis more than probable that those
with whom they communicated were chiefs, who
were, perhaps, selected on account of their sta-
ture: for on no part of the coast have my officers,
who have seen many of the Patagonians, found
people generally, nor indeed any men at all, of
the extraordinary appearance mentioned by
preceding travellers.

The inhabitants of ‘Tierre del Fuego have also
been spoken of as if they were beings possessed
of little more than animal instinct, and incapable
of being instructed. This may, perhaps, be the

INTRODUCTION. 7

case ;—arising, however, out of the peculiar situ-
ation in which they are placed. Give them inter-
course with foreigners, and they will improve in
understanding ; for I have found them to be not
only tractable and inoffensive, but also, in many
of their employments, active and ingenious.
The civil day being more intelligible to gene-
ral readers than that called the sea day, I shall
use the former in the following journal. The
principal incidents related may be found to cor-
respond with the ship’s log-book, to the truth of
which the chief officer of the Jane and two sea-

men have made oath before the commissioners of = _

his Majesty’s customs.

As I shall have frequent occasion in the course
of the work to mention facts and circumstances
which took place during my former movements
in these latitudes, it may be necessary to state
here that the two voyages to which I refer,
were performed by me in the years 1819, 1820,
and 1821, and extended to various parts in the
southern seas.

It may be farther necessary to premise, that if
in some of the following sheets I throw out an
observation or reflection on the subject of the
voyage, not perhaps strictly philosophical or
scientific, I do so in the hope that it may yet be
of a nature to challenge examination, and lead to
more just conclusions in abler hands.

B 4

CHAP. ITI.

DEPARTURE OF THE JANE AND BEAUFOY FROM THE
DOWNS. — ARRIVAL OF THE JANE AT MADEIRA. — PAS-
SAGE TO BONAVISTA.— TRANSACTIONS THERE. — RE-
MARKS ON THE ISLAND AND THE INHABITANTS. —
DEPARTURE AND PASSAGE TO PORT ST. ELENA. — PRO-
_ CEEDINGS THERE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE HARBOUR.

Ox the 17th of September 1822, I gave Mr.
Matthew Brisbane his instructions, and at five
.o’clock in the afternoon both vessels weighed,
and made sail out of the Downs. |

-We had the wind blowing fresh fromthe E.N.E.
which by the 18th, in the afternoon, brought us —

off Portland. At 4° P.M. with a Bill N. 2 E.
by compass distant fourteen miles, I took sights
of the sun for chronometers, and departure for
dead reckoning. ‘The breeze continued to blow
from the eastward, and steering a channel course,
darkness soon closed from our contemplations
the view of our beloved country.

As I had directed Mr. Brisbane to separate,
when below the Bill of Portland, and to proceed
direct to the Island of Bonavista, while I was
to touch at Madeira, by the way, we allowed the
Beaufoy to pass out of sight about midnight.

Nothing worthy of remark occurred during
our passage to Madeira, except that in making

ARRIVAL AT BONAVISTA. 9g

Porto Santo, I found that we had experienced |
an easterly current of 85 miles in ten days... « |
It was. Friday the 4th of October before we
arrived in' Funchal Roads, and at half after se-
ven in the morning I took sights for chronome-_ .
ters. The longitude deduced, placed Funchal
centre in 16° 52’ 28", . | :
. By the 5th in the evening, having (by the kind
assistance of John Blandy, Esg. to whom I had
letters .of introduction), completed my business
on shore, I returned on board, and at nine
o’clock made all sail for the island of Bonavista,
one of the Cape de Verdes. We took the trade
wind at N. E. after clearing Funchal Bay, and
carried it, blowing steadily, to Bonavista, where
we arrived on Monday the 14th, and found the
Beaufoy, with several small American and Por-

tuguese vessels, at anchor.
_ Having to take in a quantity of salt, it was
immediately set about, and by. the 19th having
received 36 tons, divided. into the two vessels,
and being in all other respects supplied and ready
for sea, on the evening of the 20th both vessels
weighed, and made sail to the southward.

While at Bonavista, I dined several times in
' company with the Bishop of the Cape de Verdes,
who usually resides at St. Iago. He was at this
period making his triennial visit, and with his
retinue of priests, lived at the house of. Senhor

10 BONAVISTA.

Mansel Martins, who was absent on a mission
to the Cortes, as representative of the Cape de
Verdes. I found the Bishop a man of agree-
able address, and by his winning manner calcu-
lated to.make proselytes; indeed he attempted
the conversion of an inmate of the house, an
American lady, whose child he had baptized.
She, however, with the common attachment that
people have towards the faith in which they
have been bred, repulsed all his endeavours.

The greatest respect was paid to this holy per-
son by the principal inhabitants of the island ;
and great deference by the commonalty. Forbear-
ance, suavity of manners, and rigid clerical dis-
cipline, appeared conspicuously in his character.

When he rose from table he immediately with-
drew to his room to study, and was seldom
seen, except at table or taking a short evening
walk, during which he was usually accompanied
by a few of the chief people of the Island.
Some of his priestly retinue were not quite so
precise; for I could discover that when from
under the eye of the Bishop, they were, like the
laity, fond of the society of ladies, and open to
their attractions. |

The common people of these islands are, for
the most part, intolerably indolent, and hence
proceeds their miserable way of living. Their
slaves, of whom they have many, are made to

BONAVISTA. i]

work hard, under the fear of the whip; for al -
though, amongst all other nations, the Africans
now enjoy a share of freedom, here no such
blessing is afforded them.

Their principal occupation is making salt, and
carrying on a small trade with the neighbouring
islands, and with the ships that call here. The
town of English Roads, which is generally called
Bonavista, contains from forty to fifty houses ;
which, excepting about half a dozen, are rudely
constructed of wood and clay, and mostly of
negro-architecture. ‘The colour of the inhabit-
ants is from white to negro jet, comprehend-
ing all the intermediate shades ; and they:are so
intermarried, slaves excepted, that they may be
said to be but one family. |

About three miles east of Bonavista, lies a
town, called Nova Cidade, or New City, where
the governor used to reside. It contains a neat
church, and about 100 biildings, the most of
which are huts. The Governor, whom I found
here on a former voyage, spoke good English,
and was extremely polite and communicative.
He was an European, and a colonel in the Portu-
guese regular army; his age might be about 65,
and he had been 42 years governor of Bonavista.

He informed me that the population of the |
island was about 3000, and that nearly 300 of
these were regular troops. The soil, he said,

12 | BONAVISTA.

’ was very prolific, when the rains fell at the usual
seasons and were copious; but that they fre-
quently suffered much from want of rain, and
indeed sometimes of good drinking water:
hence no vessel touching here can expect to
procure that invaluable article. The mean of
-chronometers pave 22° 59' 0" for the longitude
.of the anchorage.

_ Sea stock of pigs, goats, sheep, and poultry
“may be had here, but all are lean and of an in-
ferior breed: perhaps the best place for stock is
St. Iago, where it is better fed, although some-
what dearer.. I called at the latter on my last
voyage, and waited on the Governor, who was
on board a schooner of war, at anchor in the _
Bay. He was dressed in a general’s uniform,
and rather a good looking man. On my telling
him. that my object was to procure a supply
of stock, and that the vessels should not anchor,
he immediately granted permission to land, at
the. same time, recommending to my consider-
ation the poultry yard of his lady, who, he as-
sured me, would furnish me very reasonably. . I
was a good deal surprised to hear that a gover-
nor’s lady should condescend to such a traffic,
but immediately went on shore and proceeded to
the palace. The door was guarded by a soldier,
who refused me admittance; but on my busi-
ness being announced, I was allowed to pass by

DEPARTURE FROM BONAVISTA. 13

this sentinel and two others, and at length ar-
rived in the presence of the lady. I found her
employed in getting out the stock, consisting of
pigs, turkeys, and fowls, into the middle of the
yard for inspection. According to the usual
practice, she represented them as being fat and
cheap, and I chose a number of turkies, &c.
which were sent down to the boat. Our bar-
gain was concluded in the house, over a glass of
wine, and she politely desired her son, a youth of
about fourteen, to play me a tune on the guitar,
which he did with peculiar sweetness; after he
had finished I settled for my purchase, and bade
her ladyship good day. :

Having mentioned this circumstance as ex-
hibiting a singular union of rank and occupa-
tion, if not of pomp and avarice, I now return
to my narrative by observing, that having weighed -
anchor at Bonavista, we carried all possible sail
to the southward. ;

We had nothing remarkable until the a1 st of
October, when being in latitude north 14 degrees,:
we were .not a little surprised to find the water:
up to the cabin deck; the cause was soon disco-
vered to be a leak somewhere in the counter;
and in consequence of coals being stowed in
the after-hold, the water. could not find its way:
forward. We immediately hove the ship to,:
brought her by the head, and finding the leak

14 PORTUGUESE SLAVE-SHIP.

in the counter ends, succeeded in stopping it
in a temporary. manner.

_ An account of common occurrences on board

a merchant vessel, and the ship’s place in latitude
or longitude over so obvious a track, can con-
vey no useful or interesting information. I
shall therefore hurry on to regions less fre-
quented.

On: the 23d of October, in the latitude of eight
| degrees north, the wind became light and vari-
‘able, and continued so till we reached the lati-
‘tude of five degrees north, when we took the
| S.E. trade wind. On the 7th November in the

longitude of 30° we crossed the equator. The
trade wind being: far southerly we passed Cape
St. Augustine, on the coast of Brazil, within
100 miles. |
‘On the 14th, im latitude 14° S., we closed
with a Portuguese schooner, having a cargo of
slaves, bound to Bahia, and I boarded her. My
officers were’ seriously impressed with the idea
of making her a prize; but I was aware that
we could not legally do so. This inability I
much regretted, as we were of sufficient force
to have relieved 250 fellow creatures from a
cruel bondage. ‘The men slaves were stowed in
the hold, and almost suffocated by the small-
ness of the place; the women and children were
seated on the lee-side of the deck, many of

ARRIVAL OFF PORT VALDEES. 15

them. shackled by the feet. As it was out of
my power to render them any assistance, much
as I deplored their miserable situation, 1 re-
turned on. board and the vessels separated.

This nefarious traffic is still carried on by the
Portuguese, to a considerable extent to the south-
wasd of the Equator, in spite of all the humane
efforts of Great Britain to put an end to it.

Ass faw as. the latitude of 24 degrees south, we
had the wind frequently from N.W. to N.N.E.
blowing in heavy squalls, with thunder and
heavy rain.

At this season the route we took may be re-
commended for a quick passage, but, for the
health of a crew entering upon a long voyage,
the coasting passage is highly injurious. I had
one:man at the point. of déath by an attack of
dstanus, brought om by his exposure to heavy
rains.

We continued standing to the southward with
the Beaufoy in company, till we reached: the
latitude of 40° ; we then steered to the westward
to: make the land: of Patagonia. |

On the 10th of December we arrived. off Port
Vatdees lying im. latitude 42° 32”. I sent. the
chief mate to sound the passage into the harbour ;
but finding by his report, that there was-only two
and a half fathoms at low water in mid-channel;

~igee--.° - ee eee we teore et

16. ARRIVAL AT PORT ST. ELENA.

_and that the tide ran rapidly across the entrance,
I did not attempt going in with the vessels.

On the 11th in the morning, we made sail
along the coast to the southward, touching at
several places for furs.

On the 19th, we put into Port St. Elena.
Our principal business here was to stop the leak
in the brig’s counter; in doing which, in order
_ to secure the counter ends, we were obliged to
: unship the rudder and bring the vessel two feet
down by the head.

The following day I sent Mr. Brisbane with
the Beaufoy to examine St. George’s Bay; and |
to meet me on the 28th, off Penguin Island.
On the 26th, our business being completed,
about noon we put to sea.

Port St. Elena lies in latitude 44° 34’ 16” and
‘ longitude, (by mean of chronometers, compared
with four sets of lunar observations taken eight
days previous, 65° 32’ 28”.

The bay affords good shelter from S. by E. via
west, to E. by S,; and, as the heavy and pre-
vailing winds are between these points, this
place may well be recommended to stop at for a
few days. The winds are seldom from_South
East and generally light; and, the tide running
strong across the entrance of the bay, the sea,
during strong 8.E. winds, is a good deal cut off. .

As this anchorage is the most easy of access

12

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GUANACOES. ' 17

of any on the coast, I shall annex a plan of it;
for which I ran a base line of 400 fathoms, and
took angles. In the valley marked A, I observed
two holes which had been dug for obtaining fresh
water, but what they now contained was quite
brackish; farther up this valley, about half a
mile, I found very sweet water, but not in quan-
tity sufficient to supply a vessel without a con-
siderable expense of time and labour.

-Guanacoes are here very numerous, but not
easily approached: they much resemble deer;
their flesh is well tasted, and they are large
enough to make them an object of consideration
to ships touching on this coast in want of refresh-
ments. We caught one which when cleaned
weighed 120lb. and was, to my taste, very like
' well fed mutton. The difficulty of procuring
these animals from their fleetness and watchful-
ness is such, however, that they cannot be taken
hastily ; but must be entrapped by lurking be-
hind bushes about their watering places at the
dawn of the morning. Hares, which are also nu-
merous here, are much larger than in other coun-
tries. The tide*flows at the full and change at
. 8° 80’, and rises about 22 feet.

On the 80th of December, in latitude 47° 54’
and off Penguin Island, in the afternoon, amidst
several water-spouts, which are so dreaded by
: c

-

18 ‘LP AIGLE SHOAL.

many, we rejoined the Beaufoy, and made sail
to the southward.

We had now decidedly taken our departure
for a voyage of investigation to the southward, |
and though we were a month later than I had
intended, I was happy that we had made the
brig comparatively effective; and was deter-
mined, should I not be successful at the South
Orkneys, to prosecute a search beyond the tracks
of former navigators. °

I had given Mr. Brisbane my instructions how
* to act in the event of separation, and we now
proceeded to the southward in company.

At noon of the 2d of January 1828, we were
in the latitude of 51° 55’, and longitude 6507/15",
and this being the latitude assigned to the
L’aigle shoal, discovered in 1817 by a Captain
Bristow, I hauled up N.E. by E. 34 E. in order
to obtain a sight of it; but with a run of 14
miles, and a view of 10 from the mast head, I
saw nothing. Had it been accurately laid down I
ought to have foundit. This shoal must be very
dangerous, as it lies in midchannel between the
Falkland Islands and the coast of Patagonia;
but as I have never seen it I cannot describe it.
It ig reported to be a patch of breakers about
800 yards in extent. Mr. Poole places it in lati- -
tude 51° 51’, and longitude 64° 50’, which, in
my opinion, is not to be depended on; and

VIOLENT GALES. 19

therefore ships must be much delayed here in
waiting, with a fair wind, for daylight.

At 8 o’clock in the morning of the 3d, the
wind shifted suddenly from W.N.W. to south,
and in less than half an hour we were brought °

to under a close-reefed main-topsail. The gale
- continued with great violence, and with a most
irregular sea till the evening of the 4th, when it
moderated, and we made more sail. The tem-
perature of the elements during the gale was of
air 39° 30’, and that of water 49° 30’. ‘This was
surprisingly low for midsummer, nd the lati-
tude of 53 degrees ; but when,wWe consider that
a south wind blows over the frozen land of Shet-
land, the temperature of the air must of conse-
quence be much reduced in the neighbourhood |
of Cape Horn.

On the 6th in the morning the wind again
freshened at S. by E. to a gale, with a high and
uregular sea, which, in the afternoon, stove two
boats, washed away part of the bulwarks, and
earried several things off the deck. This dis-
tressing sea was no doubt produced by a tide or
current, aS we were not more than 100 miles —
S.E. of the Falkland Islands. At midnight the -
weather moderated suddenly, and left us scarce
wind sufficient to keep the ship steady.

The 7th being fine I communicated with. the
Beaufoy, and was happy to hear they were all
~ well, and had met-with no accident.

c 2

20 SOUTH ORKNEYS.

The wind continued blowing moderately from
S. by E. to S.S.W. with passing snow squalls ;
and on the 10th, in latitude 58°, we saw five ice
islands and an appearance of land in the N.E.;
but as I had cruised over that spot on a former
voyage I gave it no credit.

On the 11th at noon our latitude by observ-
ation was 59° 37’, and longitude by chronometers
46° 1’. The temperature of the air was 38°, and
that of water 33°. Many ice islands were in
sight which accounted for the temperature of
the water heing reduced.

At daylight in the morning of the 12th we
saw some pigeons, and at 6 o’clock perceived
the east end of the islands of South Orkneys *,
bearing W. by S., distant about 11 leagues. We
carried all possible sail to get under the land,
but the wind soon became light and left us
almost at the mercy of a heavy swell, in-the
midst of ice islands, which made our naviga-
tion truly hazardous. At 8 o’clock one of-
the eastern islands, which- from its figure we
named Saddle Island, bore S. 10 W., distant
about 11 leagues. .

During the 13th, the wind was light, and
from the N.N.W., which in this region generally
brings fog; and now obliged us to keep: an of-
fing. At 10 o’clock the wind shifted ‘to S.E.

* Reported by me to the Commissioners of His Majesty's
Navy, on my arrival in England, in 1822.

SOUTH ORKNEYS. Qt

with clear weather. The temperature of air was
84°, that of water 83°. At daylight of the 14th
we saw the land in the S.W., distant about.10
leagues ; and by 7 o’clock we were within one
mile of the shore.

I had landed on these islands the year before ;
but having a loaded ship, and no second vessel,
I was obliged to relinquish a deliberate examin-
ation of their shores for that season.

Being now close under the land, I sent a boat
from each vessel to explore them. .We continued
to tack the vessels about in a bay, which, from
Saddle Island forming part of it, we called Sad- —
dle Island Bay. The ice bergs, which form in
the bays in winter, and break away in the sum-
~ mer, now produced so much. drift ice, that we .
had frequently to work ship to avoid striking it.
This coast is, if possible, more terrific in appear-
ance than South Shetland. The tops of the
islands, for the most part, terminate in craggy
towering peaks, and look not unlike the moun-
tain tops of a sunken land. The loftiest of these
summits, towering up to a point, I denominated
Noble’s Peak, in honour of an esteemed friend,
Mr. James Noble, orientalist, Edinburgh. This
Peak, in a clear day, may be seen at the distance.
of fifteen leagues.

On the 14th I made observations for settling
the latitude and longitude of Saddle Island.
c 3

29 SOUTH ORKNEYS.

The latitude of its centre was found to be
60° 87’ 50”, and longitude by means of three
chronometers 44° 52’ 45” west of Greenwich.
Two of these chronometers on the 12th agreed
to the. same second, and the third differed but
12”; hence it may be presumed that the situ-
ation of the island is correctly determined. _

On the 15th in the afternoon, the vessel being
close in shore and the weather settled, I landed
on the south side of:the Bay, and having climbed
a mountain, was employed in taking a bird’s-
eye view of the country, when a dense fog
set in, which in a few. minutes shut the vessels
from observation. I hurried down to the boat,
and put off, hoping to get sight of the vessels
before losing the land; but.I was mistaken, for
we soon lost the one without obtaining the
other. My anxiety for the safety of the vessel
lying among islands, in a thick fog, was great ;
but I was fortunately soon relieved by its clear-
ing up, and allowing me to get on board.

Having seen some sea-leopards on shore, I
sent the second mate to take them, who soon
returned with six which he had captured.

This creature resembles the quadruped of the
same name in being spotted. The drawing of one
deposited in the Edinburgh Museum is annexed;
and Professor Jamieson has kindly communicated
to me a description of the animal. He considers

“erorumip.y unoig'rasg omy geanyy werubuey &a,song

ebony) prey, fo Probie rg

seres ye 'T “TIRPIM T % rarru wo une l

* §

SEA-LEOPARDS. | 23

it to be a new species of phoca, and gives it the
following distinguishing characters :— Leopard-
ine seal, the neck long and tapering; the head
mall; the body pale-greyish above, yellowish
below, and back spotted with pale white. This
species tobe referred to the division Stenorhinque,
of F. Cuvier; the teeth, however, do not quite
agree with those of his Phoque Septonyx, nor
with those of Sir E. Home, figured in Pl. xxix.
of the Philosophical Transactions for 1822.

In the evening the boats returned, having
coasted these islands for fifty miles. They had
found but one fur-seal, and some sea-leopards, .
the skins of which they brought on board. This
examination, though unsuccessful, afforded some
hope, as the seal was an earnest of our falling in
with more: I therefore hauled off the shore, to
go round the west end of the islands for a fur-
ther search. ©

On the 17th the wind freshened to a gale
from the N.N.E., and at 4 o’clock in the after-
noon we saw the land under our lee, distant
but about five miles. I made the signal of
our situation to the Beanfoy, and carried an
oppressive quantity of sail to keep off the land:
about midnight, however, it fortunately moder-
ated, and the wind shifted to the 8.S.W. We
continued plying to the westward, examining
the shores as we passed; and at 9 in the morn-

| c 4

24, SOUTH ORKNEYS.

ing of the 19th we saw the west end, bearing
S.W.4W., and straits running to the southward,
which I called Spencer Straits, in honour of the
Right Honourable R. C. Spencer; at the same
time bore S.E. by 8.35.

The weather being frequently foggy and the
winds light, we did not get off the western point
till noon of the 20th, and at 8 o’clock I settled
the latitude of this Cape to be 60° 42’S., and
longitude 46° 23’ 52” W.

Not finding any animals in this quarter, I bore
up to the east, to examine the other parts of the
islands. On the 22d in the morning we were
within six miles off the east point, which I
called Cape Dundas, in honour of the illustrious
family of that name. I presently despatched
two boats to explore the shores, and in the
meantime made observations for determining
the position of this end of the Archipelago.

By a good meridian altitude I found Cape
Dundas to lie in latitude 60° 46’ 30”, and, by
chronometers, in Jongitude 44° 35’ 45” west of
Greenwich. Two miles from the shore, we -
sounded on a bottom of dark-coloured sand, with
58 fathoms water. About the Cape, where a
little soil remained, there was a patch of short
grass, and many birds assembled round it.

In the evening the boats returned with two

seals and ten leopards’ skins. ‘They had inves-

be

fog
31aq aay

MU«YNE VEL Meee WT. fu Meats tea lly) 47g layptit Nyaeys Jyrt
FOIUMMUNIND SUN SUMGS, AVAGY Wa Ys Gties +e “NON

MU TEA T Ay
at .
AYMAN AN FL AG VALUING EAMG easy! LIAS LHS

‘Gh TROD ILE OS

————— jo

7 ee Le |

~saitemeee -

DEPARTURE FROM SOUTH ORKNEYS. 25

tigated this eastern island thoroughly, and as:we
had now explored the whole of the group. with-
out attaining our object, I concluded that the
seals we had found had migrated from'some land,
probably not very distant. My officers had be-

‘ sides ascended a hill, from which they said they
had seen a range of land lying inthe S.E. As

I thought it probable it might be so, we stood
in that direction, but on the 23d, in the morn-

ing, we were undeceived, for the supposed land |

was discovered to be'a chain of immense ice
islands, lying E.N.E. and. W.S.W. We made
various courses to the southward, and_pre-
sently artived at comparatively clear water.
At noon our latitude by account was 61° 50’,
and longitude 43°. The wind had shifted into
the N.W. with a thick fog, on-which we hauled
to the wind to the N.E. under easy sail. In the
afternoon the wind: shifted to the W.S.W. and
blew a gale, with strong snow squalls. We
stood to the southward with little sail, and about
midnight passed through a cluster of ice islands.
In the morning of the 24th the wind moderated,

and it became foggy, and: we hove to. In order’

to avoid separation, the two vessels of necessity
sailed very closely, our consort keeping constantly
on our weather quarter. Our latitude at noon,
by account, was 62°35’: the weather continued
foggy, with short intervals of comparatively

. aT st oar .

26 BREATHING OF WHALES.

clear weather, during which we always bore up
to the southward. This very slow manner of
sailing w4s teasing and unprofitable, but in these
fogs it was risk enough to drift to the south-
ward, lying to. In the evening, indeed, whilst
enveloped in fog, the second mate called to me
in the cabin, that. breakers were. close under
our lee. I immediately prepared ship to ply
to windward, but not seeing the broken water
again, I concluded that what the officer saw was
the breathing of whales; which must, indeed,
have been the case, as when the fog cleared
away nothing like breakers was visible.

On 27th at noon we had reached the latitude of
64° 58’, our longitude by mean of chronometers
was 39° 40’ 30”. The variation of the compass at
10 o’clock in the forenoon, by azimuth, was 10°37’
east. The temperature of air in the shade was 37°,
that of water 34°; but in the rays of the sun, when
clouded, the thermometer rose to 48 degrees. The
weather being here so much more settled than in
the lower latitudes of 60 and 61 degrees, could
we but find land with produce; I had little doubt,
but that in three or four weeks both vessels might
have had their cargoes on board. As, however,
we were to the southward of South Shetland, I
stood back to the northward, considering it pro-
bable that land might he found between the
South Orkneys and Sandwich Land ; and as the

DEAD WHALE. _ 27 |

summer season was now far advanced, it was

advisable to examine those lower latitudes while

the nights were yet but short, — since darkness

added to fog makes navigation in an icy sea a still
more dangerous.

We stood to the northward with the wind be-
tween S.E. and S.W., and on the 29th at noon
our latitude at observation was 61° 18’, and Jlon-
gitude by chronometers 40° 32’ 15”. The tem-
perature of air was 34°, that of water 34°. Ice
islands were our constant companions, and in-
deed they had become so familiar that they
were little dreaded:

At, 11 o’clock at night we passed within two
ships’ length of an object, which had the ap-
pearance of arock. ‘The lead was immediately
thrown out, but finding no bottom, we continued
lying to, till the chief mate ascertained it to be
a dead whale very much swollen: such objects,
seen imperfectly in the night, are often alarming.

We carried easy sail to the northward with
the wind westerly, much fog and falls of snow.
On the Ist of February, at noon, our latitude
was 58° 50’, longitude 38° 51’. As there was no
sign of land in this situation, we stood to the
south-east, making an angle with our course,
coming northward, which would enable us to see _
_dand midway. . |

28 REWARD FOR DISCOVERY OF LAND.

I had offered a gratuity of 10/. to the man
who should first discover land. This proved
‘the cause of many a sore disappointment ; for
many of the seamen, of lively and sanguine
imaginations, were never at a loss for an island.
In short, fog banks out of number were reported
for land ; and many, in fact, had so much that ap-
pearance, that nothing short of standing towards
them till they vanished’ could satisfy us as to
their real nature.

‘In the morning of the 2d the wind freshened
W.S.W. to a gale, which obliged us to lie to;
snow squalls were frequent, and having many ice-
islands to pass, we had to make various courses,
and changes in the quantity of sail on the vessels.
I carefully avoided the tracks of Captains Cook
and Furneaux: and I may here remark how nar- -
- rowly Captain Furneaux in the Adventure, in De-
cember 1778 and January 1774, escaped seeing
South Shetland and the South Orkneys. He
passed within 45 miles of the east end of Shet-
land and 75 miles of the South Orkneys: hence
20 miles, we may presume, of a more southerly
course, would have given us a knowledge of
South Shetland 50 years ago.

Running east in this latitude of from 60° to
61° we were constantly accompanied by all the
birds common in these latitudes. Great num-

DISAPPOINTMENT FROM FOG BANK. Q2Yy

bers of finned and hump-backed whales were
also seen; and penguins in large shoals, having
for their resting-place some ice island. |
Being determined to examine these latitudes
thoroughly, we constantly hauled to the wind
under close-reefed topsails- during fogs and.the
darkest part of the night, bearing up to the east-
ward when daylight appeared. On the 4th in
the morning land was believed to be seen in the
N. E., resembling an island. The signal to that
effect was made to our consort, and we carried
all sail to ascertain the fact; but our pleasing
hopes were again speedily dispelled by our illu-
sive island sinking below the horizon.. We re-
turned to our former easterly course, and passed _
several ice islands, lying east and west. In fact,
we found all the clusters to lie in that direction,
which is caused, no doubt, by. the prevalent
westerly winds carrying them along to. the east-.
ward, and spreading them in proportion to their.
hold of the water and the surface they present
above. ‘
By the evening of the 4th we were witbin
100 miles of Sandwich Land, and within such a
distance of the track of Captain Cook, as cgn-
vinced me that no land lay between. eG
Our pursuit of land here, therefore, was now.
at an end, but I conceived it probable that a large
tract might be found a little farther south than

30 ‘COLDS, AGUES, AND RHEUMATISMS.

we had yet been. I accordingly informed Mr.:
Brisbane of my intention of standing to the
southward, and he, with a boldness which greatly:
enhanced the respect I bore him, expressed his
willingness to push our research in that direc-

tion, though we had been hitherto so unsuc-

+ 1

cessful. |

The weather being dark and foggy we stood
to the southward under close-reefed topsails only.
At 10 o’clock the following morning the temper-
ature of air was 37, that of water 36 degrees ;
our latitude at noon, by observation, was 61° 44,
and longitude, by chronometers, 31° 13' 15”.

From having had a long course of dense fogs

_and fresh gales, the decks of our vessels were

constantly wet, which produced amongst our

seamen colds, agues, and rheumatisms. To re-
medy this in some measure, I had the ship’s
cooking stove moved below for their comfort,
and good fires kept for drying their clothes; and
by attending to these matters, and administering
a little medicine, their complaints were soon re-
moved. |

I had allowed them three wine-glasses of rum
a day per man, since we were in these seas;
and their allowance of beef and pork was one
pound and a quarter a-man per day ; five pounds
ef bread, two pints of ‘flour, three of peas, and
two of barley, a man per week. These allow-

1 NARROW ESCAPE. - 31

ances in a cold climate were rather scanty, but
the uncertainty of the length of our voyage re-
quired the strictest economy.

' During the 6th and 7th we passed 1 many ioe
islands, one of which I estimated to be two miles
in length, and 250 feet high. The wind pre-
vailed between W.S.W. and W.N.W. with foggy
and clear weather alternately. At noon we ob-
served in latitude 64° 15’, and our longitude by
chronometers was 30° 46’, The variation by
azimuth in the forenoon was 8° 19’ easterly.

At 10 o’clock at night, the weather being
foggy, we narrowly escaped striking an ice island:
in passing.. We hailed our consort, but she. wav
so close to our stern that she passed also very: -
near to it. The temperature of air at’8 o’clock
in the evening was 34°, that of water 36°. In
the afternoon of the 9th, the fog clearing away,
we saw ah appearance of land in the N.W. ; but,
after the usual practice of pursuing all ‘such ap-
pearances, we discovered it to be one of our de-
lusive attendants, the fog banks. The wind
now shifted to south and blew strong, aceot-
panied with snow squalls.

At daylight in the morning of the 10th the
chief mate reported ‘land within sight, in the
shape of a sugar loaf; as soon as I saw it I ‘be-
lieved. it to be a rock, and fully expected. to find
terra firma.a short distance to the southward.

32 DISAPPOINTMENT FROM AN ICE ISLAND.

It was 2 o’clock in the afternoon before we
reached it ; and not till then, when passing within
300 yards, could we satisfy ourselves that it was
not land, but black ice. We found an island of
clear ice lying close, and detached above water, |
though connected below, which made a contrast
of colour that had favoured or rather completed
the deception. In short, its north side was so
thickly incorporated with black earth, that hardly
any person ata distance would have hesitated to
pronounce it a rock. ‘This was a new disap-
pointment, and seriously felt by several of our
crew, whose hopes of having an immediate re-
ward for their patience and perseverance were
again frustrated. |
_ The wind was at south and blowing a fresh
gale, with which we might have gone rapidly to
the northward ; but the circumstance of having
seen this ice island so loaded with earth, encou-
_ raged me to expect that it had disengaged _ itself
from land possessing a considerable quantity of
soil; and that our arrival at that very desirable
object might, perhaps, not be very distant. These
impressions induced me to keep our wind, and
we stood to the S.W.

I may here remark that many of the doubtful
rocks laid down in the chart of the North At-
lantic have been probably objects similar to
what I have described ; and still remain unas-

NUMEROUS ICE ISLANDS. 33°

certained, to the great annoyance of all cautious
navigators. Our latitude at noon was by ac-
count 66° 26’, and our longitude by chronome-
ters 32° 32’... The temperature of air was 35°
30’, that of water 34°.

On the 11th in the morning the wind shifted
to S.W. by S., and we stood to the S.E. At noon
our latitude by observation was 65° 32’, that of
account 65°53’; and the chronometers giving
44 miles more westing than the log. We had in
3. days experienced a current running N. 64° W
48 miles: the difficulty, however, of keeping a
correct reckoning, from the many changes mad
in the course and quantity of sail, must subject .
the error to a suspicion of arising more from bad
observation than from a real current. We had{
evidently been set to the northward and west-j
ward, which is contrary to what is generally the!
case, as the current almost constantly sets to the-
eastward. In the afternoon I found the variation
by azimuth 12° 2’ east.

During the 12th and 13th we had the wind
from S.S.W., and we stood to the S.E. Ice
islands were numerous, and on the 14th at noon
our latitude by account was 68° 28’, and lon-
gitude by chronometers 29° 43’ 15”. In the
afternoon, with the ship’s head 8.S.W. the vari-
ation by azimuth was 8° 5’ east. At 4o’clock
ice islands were so numerous as:almost to prevent.

D |

34 PETERELS AND WHALES.

our passing ; sixty-six were counted around us,
and for about 50 miles to the south we had sel-
dom fewer in sight.

On the 15th at noon our latitude observed was
68° 44’, by account 69°; this difference of 16
miles in the latitude with easting given by chro-
nometers, makes a current in 4 days of N. 58° E.
27 miles. In the forenoon, with the ship’s head
S. by W., I took a set of azimuths, which to my
great astonishment gave the variation but 1° 20’.
east; in the afternoon I took a second set,
which gave 4° 58’. As I had taken great pains
in making the observations, and the instruments

were good, however unaccountable this great
- difference was, I could not do otherwise than
abide by the result.

On the 16th at noon our latitude by account
was '70° 26’, and longitude by chronometers
29° 58’; the wind was moderate from the west-
ward, and the sea tolerably smooth. Ice ‘islands
had almost disappeared, and the weather be-
came very pleasant. Through the afternoon
we had the wind fresh from the N.E., and we
steered S.W. by W.

In the morning of the 17th the water appear-
ing discoloured, we hove a cast of the lead, but
found no bottom. A great number of birds of
the bluegpeterel kind were about us, and many
hump and finned back whales. |

“

PETERELS AND WHALES. 85

In the morning I took an amplitude, which
gave variation 12° 24 east. The wind had
shifted to the S.E. and became light. Our lati-
tude at noon by account was 71° 34’, and longi-
tude by chronometers 30°12’. As the weather
was now more settled, our consort sailed wide, in
order to extend our view.

On the 18th the weather was remarkably fine,
and the wind in the S.E. Having unfortunately
broken my two thermometers, I could not ex-
actly ascertain the temperature, but it was cer-
tainly not colder than we had found it in De-
cember (summer) in the latitude of 61°. With
the ship’s head S.W. by S. at about 8” 30’ in the
morning I took a set of azimuths, which gave
variation 18° 23’ east. At noon our latitude by
observation was 72° 38’, by account 72° 14’;
hence, with chronometer difference of longitude,
we had been set in three days S. 62° W., distance
80 miles. In the afternoon I took a long set of
azimuths, which gave variation 19° 58’. This in-
crease in so short a distance seemed unsatisfac-
tory; on which account I neglected no oppor-
‘ tunity of making observations in order to recon-
cile these irregularities. I had all the compasses
brought upon deck, and I found them to agree,
but rather inactive in traversing.

In the evening we had many whales about the
ship, and the sea was literally covered with

D2

86 NO ICE VISIBLE.

birds of the blue peterel kind. Not a PARTICLE
OF ICE OF ANY DESCRIPTION WAS TO BE SEEN.
The evening was mild and serene, and had it not.
been for the reflection that probably we should
have obstacles to contend with in our passage
northward, through the ice, our situation might
have been envied. The wind was light and
easterly during the night, and we carried all
sail, The sun’s amplitude in the morning of the
19th when the ship’s head was S. by E. gave
variation 15° 10’ east.

The weather being pleasant, our carpenter
was employed in repairing a boat, and we were
_ enabled to make several repairs on the sails and
‘Tigging. At noon our latitude by observation
was 73° 17’, and Jongitude by chronometers
_ 85° 54’ 45”. In the evening, by several sets of
amplitudes, I found the variation to be but 5° 35’
east. About midnight it fell calm, but pre-
sently a breeze sprang up from the S.W. by W.,
and we hauled on a wind S. by E.

In the morning of the 20th ‘the wind shifted
to S. by W. and blew a fresh breeze, and seeing
a clouded horizon, and a great number of birds
in the S.E., we stood in that direction. At 10
o’clock in the forenoon, when the ship’s head
was E.S.E., I took a set of azimuths, which gave
variation 11° 20’ east. ‘The atmosphere now
became very clear, and nothing like land was to

ICE ISLANDS. 37

be seen. ‘Three ice islands were in sight from
the deck, and one other from the mast-head.
‘On one we perceived a great number of pen-
guins roosted. Our latitude at this time, 20th
February, 1822, was 74° 15’, and longitude
84° 16’ 45”; the wind blowing fresh at. south,
prevented, what I most desired, our making far-
ther progress in that direction. I would wil-
lingly have explored the S.W. quarter, but faking
into consideration the lateness of the season, and
that we had to pass homewards through 1000
miles of sea strewed with ice islands, with long
nights, and probably attended with fogs, I could
not determine otherwise than to take advantage
of this favourable wind for returning. |

I much regretted that circumstances had not
allowed me to proceed to the southward,. when
in the latitude of 65°, on the 27th of January, as
I should then have had sufficient time to examine
this sea to my satisfaction. -

Situated however as I actually was, , my atten- —
tion was naturally roused to observe any pheno-
mena which might be considered interesting to
science. I was well aware that the making of
scientific observations in this unfrequented part
of the globe was a very desirable object, and con-
sequently the more lamented my not being well
supplied with the instruments with which ships
fitted out for discovery are gener ally provided. -

D 3

88 OBSERVATIONS.

As the exact longitude of the ship and of
harbours, &c. is of the first consideration, I had
expended 240/, in the purchase of three chrono-
meters ; all of these performed remarkably well,
and in particular, one of eight days, (No. 820.)
Murray, London, continued regular in its daily
rate of gaining through an unparalleled trial by
repeated shocks, which the vessel (but slightly
built) sustained during a month among field ice.
Such perfection in this most useful machine, can-
not be too much appreciated by commanders. of
ships, who, by assistance of so precise a nature,
can easily avoid embarrassment in critical situa-
tions, where many lives and much valuable pro-
perty frequently depend on a true knowledge of
the ship’s place.

The laws to which the compass seems to be
subject in regard to its variation, have lately un-
dergone such accurate investigation by eminent
individuals, that the phenomena attending it are
now, in a great degree, ascertained.

My own actual observations with regard to
the variation, are inserted at the end.of the
volume. |

Those which I made about the latitude of
60 degrees, are collected for local attraction
from the table of experiments made with Mr.
Barlow’s plate, in H. M.S. Conway, by Cap-
tain Basil Hall, and by Mr. Foster; but the

AURORA AUSTRALIS. 39

observations arrived at about the latitude of
70 degrees cannot be reconciled, as to quantity.
of local a:traction, with the theory adopted on
the subject: I therefore let them remain at the
observed results. I found a difference of from
$8 to 5 degrees between the variation taken at the
binnacle and that on the main hatches; and I
have found as great a difference when the ob-
servations were made, even on the same spot, an
hour apart. In fact, it appeared evident that the
magnetic energy of the earth upon the needle
was much diminished when far to the south-
ward; partly arising, no doubt, from the in-
creased dip or diminution of horizontal action on
the needle, which must be attracted in. an in-
creased degree by objects immediately about it.
This, however, cannot be altogether decided till
a more satisfactory theory in respect to the
emanation of the magnetic influence has been
demonstrated. .

The Aurora Australis, which Mr. Foster saw
in his voyage round. the world with Captain Cook
‘in the year 1773, I particularly looked for during
the time the sun was beneath the horizon, which
was more than six hours, but nothing of the kind
was observable. As the twilight, however, was _
never out of the sky, that might be the cause of
its not being visible.

D 4

40 FIELD ICE.

The remarkable and distorted appearances
which objects and the horizon itself assume by re-
fraction in high northern latitudes, occurred here
but little more than in an ordinary way. The
water spouted by whales half an hour after sun-
rise in the morning of the 19th exhibited an in-
creased refraction, but it soon disappeared.

The reason of this phenomenon not existing
as singularly in the south as it does in correspond-
ing northern latitudes, may be attributed’ to this
sea being clear of field ice.

It distinctly appears to me, that the conjecture
of Captain Cook, that field ice is formed and pro-
ceeds from land, and is not formed in the open
sea, is true. He latterly, however, changes his
opinion from having found ice solid in field in
the latitude of 70 degrees to the northward of
Bhering’s Straits. But I think it likely that the
ice he fell in with there proceeded from land in
the north, not more distant, perhaps, than 150
miles. No person can doubt the probability of
my conjecture, when it is remembered, that in the
latitude of '74° 15’ south (which, according to the
received opinion of former navigators, that the
southern hemisphere is proportionably colder by
10 degrees of latitude than the northern, would
be equal to 84° 15’ north,) I found a sea per-
fectly clear of field ice; whereas in the latitude
of 61° 30’, about 100 miles from the land, I was

13

PHENOMENA OF THE SOUTH POLE. as |

beset in heavy packed ice. As in that situation
we could not see the land, had I not known of the
existence of South Shetland, I might have fallen
into the commonly received error, that this ice
proceeded continuously from the South Pole. If,
therefore, no land exist to the south of the latitude
at which I arrived, viz. seventy-four degrees, fif-
teen minutes, — being three degrees and five mi-
nutes, or 214 geographical miles farther south than
Captain Cook, or any preceding navigator reach-
ed, how is it possible that the South Pole should
not be more attainable than the North, about
which we know there lies a great deal of land?
The excessive cold of the southern hemis-
phere has been variously accounted for, every
philosopher adopting that theory which best
suited bis own hydrographical system. Saint
Pierre supposes it to proceed from a cupola of
ice. surrounding the South Pole, and stretch-
ing far northward. We have now better data
to go upon; for though great exertions were
used in the years 1773 and 1774 to discover
the terra australis incognita without success, yet
we find there is a range of land lying as far
north as: the latitude of 61 degrees. We may
also conjecture, without much fear of being in
the wrong, that the land with which we are
acquainted lying in latitude of 61 degrees, and
in- longitude 54° 980’, namely, the east- end of

42 DISCOVERY ANTICIPATED.

South Shetland, stretches to the W.S. W., beyond
the longitude in which Captain Cook penetrated
to the latitude of '71° 10’. It is this land which,
no doubt, ought to be looked upon as the source
from which proceeds the excessive cold of these
regions. The temperature of air and water in
the latitude of 60 and 61 degrees, I have men-
tioned to be but little above the freezing point.
The cold earthless land, and its immense ice
islands, which are continually separating in the
summer, and are made, by prevailing westerly
winds, almost to girdle the earth, is evidently
the cause of the very low temperature which
prevails.

The part of the country which I have seen
is without soil, reared in columns of impenetrable
rock, inclosing and producing large masses of ice,
even in the low latitude of 60° 45’.

It is certain that ice islands are formed only
in openings or recesses of land; and field ice,
I think, is not readily formed in a deep sea.

On soundings, the water is soon cooled down
to the freezing point; hence field ice is found
at the distance of many miles from any shore.
These considerations induce me to conclude,
that from having but three ice islands in sight,
in latitude 74 degrees, the range of land, of
which I have spoken, does not extend more
southerly than the 73d degree. If this be true,

DISCOVERY ANTICIPATED. 43

and if there be no more land to the southward, _
the antarctic polar sea may be found less icy .
than is imagined, and a clear field of discovery, :
even to the South Pole, may therefore be anti- :
cipated.

CHAP. III.

RETURN TO THE NORTHWARD. — NO SOUTH ICELAND IN
THE LATITUDE LAID DOWN IN COMMON CHARTS. == 8E-
PARATION OF THE VESSELS. — PASSAGE THROUGH ICE
ISLANDS. — ARRIVAL OF BOTH SHIPS AT SOUTH GEOR-
GIA. -—~ SOUTH GEORGIA. — PENGUINS, AND OTHER OB-
JECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY. — SAIL AGAIN. — THE
AURORA ISLAND. -——- ARRIVE AT THE FALKLAND ISLES.

Havine now determined on returning, I made
the signal to our consort to bear up and steer
N.W., and we made all possible sail.

™

Our crews were naturally much disappointed ‘~

at our ill success in not finding a southern land,
as their interest in the voyage was to be a pro.
portion of the cargo procured. In order, there-
fore, to reanimate them by acknowledging their
merit, I expressed my approbation of their pa-
tient and orderly behaviour, and informed them
that they were now to the southward of the lati-
tude to which any former navigator had pene-
trated. Our colours were hoisted, and a gun was
fired, and both crews gave three cheers. These
indulgences, with an allowance of grog, dispelled
their gloom, and infused a hope that fortune
might yet be favourable.
In honour of our most gracious Sovereign, the
name of King George the Fourth’s sea was given
to this hitherto unvisited part of the ocean.

NORTHERLY CURRENT. 45

-. The wind continued from south till midnight,
when it fell calm. In the morning of the 2lst
a breeze sprang up from the westward. We con-
tinued steering N.W., under as much canvass as
our consort’s slower rate of sailing would admit,
and on the 23d at noon, we had returned to the
latitude of 71° 25’ by observation, and '71° 38’
by account; hence we had experienced a north-
erly current of nearly thirteen miles in two days.
This northerly set favours the theory of St. Pierre,
who supposes such a current to be caused by the
fusion of the Polar ices; but if it exist at all,
(since it may have been merely an error of reck-
oning,) it is certainly too small to effect the flux
and reflux of the ocean. In order to give a
chance of ascertaining the general current in
these seas, I secured a bottle well with the cork,
and threw it overboard with a notice inclosed -
of the state of the sea in latitude 74°, &c. The
water again being discoloured, we sounded with
240 fathoms of line, but got no bottom, though
I am of opinion it would have been obtained at
a greater length of line; but as we had no more,
nor a lead sufficiently heavy, we could not be
so experimental as I wished. Ice islands now
became more numerous, and our consort took
on board a quantity of fallen ice for water for
present use. In the afternoon it became calm,
and I tried the current by mooring the boat in the

46 OBSERVATIONS.

usual way, and found it setting to the N.E. one-
sixth of a mile per hour. At 6 p.m. a breeze
sprang up from N.N.E., and we made sail to the
westward. The winds continued northerly,
sometimes. blowing strong with snow, till the
evening of the 26th, when we had another
calm. Our latitude at noon by observation was
67° 33’, and longitude by chronometers 40° 2.
In the afternoon I took a set of azimuths, which:
at the binnacle, when the ship’s head was west»
gave variation 15° 58’ easterly. In the forenoon
I observed the froth of the sea to lie S.E. and
N.W., which, by the observation for latitude-and
longitude, indicated a current setting to the S.E.
about one-eighth of a mile per hour; at ten at
night a breeze sprang up from the S.E., and we
made sail, The 27th, being fine in the forenoon,
I took a set of azimuths in mid-ships, when
the ship’s head was N.W., which gave variation
22° 8’.

In the afternoon, when the ship’s head was
N.W., a second set gave only 11° 00’ easterly.
_ This last observation was taken at the binnacle,
but the ship’s local attraction was not sufficient
to account for the great difference in the results.
In the night of the 27th the wind freshened at
south with snow squalls, and we steered N.N.W.,
carrying as much sail as we could safely navigate
with among ice islands. On the 28th at noon.

SMALL ICE LANDS. 4]

our latitude by observation was 65° 2’, and longi-
tude by chronometers 40° 45’. We had now little
ice in sight, in comparison with what appeared
when in nearly the same latitude on the 27th of
January. In the evening we hauled up N.W. by
W. to look into the longitude of 45°. The first of
March being fine, I took several sets of azimuths,
all of which produced nearly the same result.
Having used the same instruments, and the ob-
servers being the same as when in the latitude of
67° and upwards, I was persuaded that the former
. differences did not arise from inaccuracies of ob-
servation, but rather from the inactivity or in-
sufficiency of the needle. The-mean of azimuths.
gave variation 16° 31’. Qur latitude at noon by
observation was 63° 29’, and longitude 42° 41’.
On the 4d in the morning it blew a strong breeze.
from N.W. and the weather was foggy; in the.
afternoon it cleared up, and we saw an appear-
_ance of land in the S.E. but it presently vanished.
At midnight the wind shifted to north, and blew
a gale with snow squalls. In reaching to the
westward we fell in with many. small ice islands, _
and we wore ship to the N.E.: the weather con-
tinued foggy with strong gales till the 4th in the.
morning, when it moderated, and at noon we had.
clear weather. Our latitude by observation being
63° 21’, and longitude by chronometers 45° 22’,
we were in a situation to have seen what is re-

48 PARTING OF THE SHIPS.

presented on the South Atlantic chart in common:
use, as South Iceland, but, alas! no such place
exists.

It is much to be regretted that any men should
be so ill-advised as to propagate hydrographical
falsehoods ; and I pity those who, when they
meet with an appearance that is likely to throw
some light on the state of the globe, are led
through pusillanimity to forego the examination
of it. But the extreme reluctance I have to ex-
cite painful feelings any where, restrains me from
dealing that just censure which is due to many
of my fellow seamen, who, by negligence, narrow
views of pecuniary interest, or timidity, have
omitted many practicable investigations, the
want of which continues to be felt by the nation,
and more especially by merchants and ship-
owners.

During the night of the 5th, the weather being
foggy, we lost sight of the Beaufoy, and though
we made several tacks we were then unable to
regain sight of,her. In the night of the 6th,
the wind shifted suddenly from N.N.W. toS.W.,
and left a most distressing sea, which obliged us
to heave to: at daylight, not seeing any thing
of the Beaufoy, I concluded that she was making
the best of her way to South Georgia, the place
of rendezvous. I was uneasy at our separation,
for although I had full confidence in the care and

ICE ISLANDS. - 49

ability of Mr. Brisbane, I still wished to have
continued my attentions, more particularly on
account of our being among ice islands. In the
morning of the 7th it blew a gale from 8. W. and
this being a favorable wind we steered N. by E.
under a close-reefed main topsail, reefed fore-
sail,’ and reefed fore-top-mast staysail, with which
in squalls we ran at the rate of 10 miles per hour.
At 6 A.M. we were under the necessity of work-
ing through a cluster of ice islands which having
much fallen ice about them, the passage was
rendered very dangerous: I was, according to
the best practice, attempting to steer to windward
of most of them; but the sea running too high,
we were obliged to keep before the wind. ‘The
chief mate was stationed in the foretop to look
out for low ice in the hollow of the sea; and it
was only by strict regard to the helm, and the
sails, that we happily got through without an
accident. With a free side wind an ice island
should be passed on the windward side, as by
this means the loose ice, which always drifts
farthest, is avoided.

Though this gale was so violent as to produce
a sea which cleared the decks of almost every '
movable, it was from so favorable a quarter
for sailing homeward, that we could not afford
to lay to through the night on account of ice;
but kept all the people of the watch looking out

E

50 SOUTH GEORGIA.

a-head ; and thus we passed several ice islands:
without danger.

On the 9th, in the morning, the wind mode-
rated and shifted into the N.N.W. We had:
made during the last gale 349 miles of distance,
and at noon our latitude by observation, was
55° 21’, and longitude by chronometers, 38° 55’
by D. R. 49°12’... We were now far enough
north to be relieved from the fear of falling in
with ice, and the navigation became compara-
tively easy. |

Up to the. 12th we had variable winds from
the northward and westward accompanied with
thick fog; and at 8 o’clock in the morning, the
weather becoming clear, to our great joy we
discovered our little consort in the N.W., and -
soon after we communicated and found all well..
With the wind blowing strong at west, we steered
to the northward in company; and at 10 A.M.
we saw the island of South Georgia, bearing N.
by W. distant about 9 or 10 miles. Notwith-
_ standing the forbidding appearance of this land,
every one, I believe, in the two vessels, feasted
his eyes upon it; and at 3 in the afternoon
both ships came to anchor in Adventure Bay,
(S.W. part of Georgia, ) in '7 fathoms water, over
a bottom of strong clay.

Our arrival here, though it was not a country
the most indulgent, we considered to be a very

SOUTH GEORGIA. Fo |

happy event. Our sailors had suffered much
from cold fogs and wet during the two months
they had been navigating the south; and as we
had been nearly 5 months under sail, the appear-
ance of scurvy (that disease ‘so fatally attendant
on long voyages) was to be dreaded. Our ves-
sels, too; were so much weathér-beaten, that they
greatly needed refitting ; so that taking into ac-
count our many pressing wants, this island,
though inhospitable, was capable of affording us
great relief. | |

Our crews here fed plenteously on greens —
which, although bitter, are very salutary, being
an excellent antiscorbutic : with regard to meat,
we were supplied with young albatrosses, that is
to say, 4bout a year old: the flesh ‘of these is
sweet, but not sufficierftly firm to be compared
with that of any domestic fowl. |

Our harbour duties, and a search upd the
island for animals for ourcargo, were imniediately
commenced and carried on with zeal, although
we experienced frequent interruptions from
heavy gales which were now prevalent ; it being —
near the time of the autumnal equinox of this’
hemisphere.

I took opportunities of making various observ-
ations on shore, and found the head of the bay
to lie in latitude 54° 2’ 48”, and in longitude, by
the mean of two of the best of my chronometers,

Ee

§2 SOUTH GEORGIA.

88° 8’ 4”. The variation of the compass at the
same place by azimuth, was 11° 15’ east. The
head of this bay being surrounded with moun-
tains, I ascended the top of one of them for the
purpose of taking the altitude of the sun when
at some distance from the meridian, but after
planting my artificial horizon, I was surprised to
}find, that although there was not a breath of
wind, and every thing around perfectly still, yet
the mercury had so tremulous a motion, that I
-{ could not get an observation. The ground was
': evidently agitated internally ; though it was only
' by means of the quicksilver that I could de-
tect it.

On the 17th of April, our harbour business
being completed, both vessels put to sea, and
with the wind at east, we directed our course
towards the Falkland Islands.

South Georgia, it appears, was discovered by
a Monsieur La Roche, in the year 1675. It was
visited by a vessel called the Lyon in 1756; but
was not explored till Captain Cook did so in the
Resolution, in the year 1771.

_ I need not remind the reader of the great
advantages navigation, and geography in general,
have acquired from the discoveries and inves-
tigations of that able navigator ; but the public
may not be aware of the great extent to which

SEA ELEPHANTS AND FUR SEALS. 58

his researches in the South, in particular, have
been beneficial to Great Britain.

His official report regarding the island of South
Georgia, in which he gave an account of the
great number of sea-elephants (called by him
sea-lions), and fur seals, found on the shores,
_ induced several enterprising merchants to fit out
vessels to take them; the elephants for their oil,
and the seals for their skins. These animals are
now almost extinct; but I have been credibly
informed that, since the year in which they were
known to be so abundant, not less than 20,000
tons of the sea-elephant oil has been procured
for the London market. A quantity of fur seal-
skins were usually brought along with a cargo
of oil; but formerly the furriers in England
had not the method of dressing them, on which
account they were of so little value, as to be
almost neglected.

At the same time, however, the Americans
were carrying from Georgia cargoes of these
skins to China, where they frequently obtained
a price of from 5 to 6 dollars a-piece. It is ge-
nerally known that the English did not’ enjoy the
same privilege; by which means the Americans
took entirely out of our hands this valuable ©
article of trade.

The number of skins brought from off Georgia
by-ourselves and foreigners cannot be estimated

- E 3-

54% ISLAND OF GEORGIA.

at fewer than 1,200,000. I may here also remark,
that the Island of Desolation, which Captain Cook
likewise visited, and first made known, has been
a source of scarcely less profit than the island
of Georgia. Hence it may be presumed, that
during the time these two islands have been
resorted to for the purpose of trade, more than
2000 tons of shipping, and from two to three
hundred seamen have been employed annually
in this traffic.

Having thus given an idea of the value of
what has already been discovered in the South
Seas, | shall say something of the island of
Georgia as to its extent and peculiarities.

The island is about 96 miles long, and its
mean breadth about 10. It is so indented with _
bays, that in several places, where they are on
opposite sides, they are so deep as to make the
distance from the one side to the other very
small. Near the west end in particular, there is
a neck of this kind, about half'a mile broad, over
which boats are frequently transported.

Dalrymple, in a very old chart, represents this
island as having a channel quite through it;
which may probably have been the case, since,
near the middle, there is an ice-berg, which seems
to run from side to side.

The tops of the mountains are lofty, and per-
petually covered with snow ; but in the valleys,

PENGUINS. 55

during the summer season, vegetation is rather
abundant. Almost the only natural production
of the soil is a strong bladed grass, the length of
‘which: is in general about two feet; it grows
in tufts on mounds three or four feet from the
ground, 3

No land quadrupeds are found here; birds
and amphibious animals are the only inhabitants :
—of the bird tribe, the king penguin is the most
worthy of notice. The penguins (or, as they
ought properly to be called, pinguins, the name
_ being evidently derived from the Latin word
pinguedo, on account of its fatness,) are of
a very gregarious nature. They go in large
flocks along the shore, erect, and with a wad-
dling gait. When seen through .a hazy atmo-
sphere, they may be not inaptly mistaken for a
body: of men ; and, indeed, Sir John Narborough
has whimsically likened them to “ little children ©
standing up in white aprons.” Those which he
describes, however, were a very diminutive spe-
cies in comparison with the king penguin, the
bird to which I refer.

In pride, these birds are perhaps not surpassed
even by the peacock, to which in beauty of plu-
mage they are indeed very little inferior, —as
may be seen in our principal museums. During
the time of moulting, they seem to repel each
other with disgust, on account of the ragged state

E 4

56 PENGUINS.

of their coats ; but as they arrive at the maximum
of splendour they re-assemble, and no one who °
has not completed his plumage is allowed to enter
the community. Their frequently looking down
their front and sides in order to contemplate
the perfection of their exterior brilliancy,. and
to remove any speck which might sully it, is
truly amusing to an observer.

About the beginning of January they parr,
and. lay their eggs. During the time of hatch-
ing, the male is remarkably assiduous, so that.
when the hen has occasion to go off to feed and
wash, the egg is transported to him, which is
done by placing their toes together, and rolling
it from the one to the other, using their beaks to
place it properly. As they have no nest, it 1s
to be remarked, that the egg is carried between
the tail and legs, where the female, in particular,
has a cavity for the purpose.

The hen keeps charge of her young nearly a
twelvemonth, during which time they change
and complete their plumage; and in teaching
them to swim, the mother has frequently to use
some artifice; for when the young one refuses
to take the water, she entices it to the side of
a rock, and cunningly pushes it in, and this is
repeated until it takes the sea of its own accord.
There are three other kinds of penguins, all of
them nearly of the same size, but little more than

PENGUINS. | 57

half the bigness of that which I have described.
Their plumage is not near so fine, but they walk |
erect, and are of the same form with the king
penguin. The names by which they are dis-
tinguished are, the macaroni, the jack-ass, and
the stone-cracker penguin. ‘The macaroni is so
called from its having been likened to a fop or
macaroni, though I must confess I do not see
the similitude.~ The next has its name from the
noise it makes, which resembles the braying of |
an ass. And the third is denominated from its
pecking or cracking stones when irritated. All
these birds have a practice of cunningly steal-
ing from one another, during the time of nest-
building, the materials of which they are con-
structed. They differ from the king penguin in
these particulars, and also in having nests,
which are sometimcs in the sides of tussac
mounds, but generally on the side of a hill;
and are composed of a few sticks and stones.
They remain with their young but four months,
viz. from January to April, at which time they
take them off shore for several successive days
to the distance of four or five miles, in order to
accustom them to the water ;, and when they can
endure it, they go off to sea.

The Albatross (the Diomedia of ornithology)
is a bird which has been often seen by naviga-
tors off the Cape of Good Hope, and in south-

58 THE ALBATROSS.

ern latitudes, and has been frequently described ;
but as the species abounds in the island of
Georgia, I shall record some observations I have
made in regard to their domestic habits, &c.
A full grown albatross sometimes measures
16 or 17 feet from the tip of one wing to
the tip of the other-when expanded; but more
commonly they average about 12 feet. These
birds are so abundantly covered with feathers
that, when plucked, they appear not above one
half the original size, and our astonishment at
their apparent magnitude immediately vanishes,
I have found them when cleaned, to weigh from
12 ta 25 lb.

There is something humorously remarkable
in their way of mating; the couple approach
one another with great apparent ceremony,
bringing their beaks repeatedly together, swing-
ing their heads, and contemplating each other
with very deliberate attention. Sometimes this
will continue for two hours together, and to.a
person inclined to be amused the whole trans-
action would appear not unlike one of our own
formal courtships in pantomime. They have
great power in their beaks, and, when on the
nest, I have observed them defend themselves
for half an hour against an active dog.
Their feet are webbed and remarkably large,
so that when the water is smooth they can walk

THE NELLY. 59

on the surface with hardly , any assistance from
their wings, and the noise of their tread is
heard at a considerable distance. Their eggs are ©
inferior to those of geese, but they have less
yolk, and more white in proportion to their size,
and weigh generally one pound and three quar-
ters.’ All birds of the albatross.and gull . kind
_ lay their eggs in October, and, when new laid,
they are a great source of refreshment.

The bird next in size found here, is called
by sailors a Nelly: it is-of the peterel kind,
and of a mixed grey and brown colour, having
an unpleasing appearance, and being extremely
voracious. Their fondness for blubber often
induces them to eat so much that they are
unable to fly. A flock of perhaps five or six
hundred has been known to devour 10 tons of
the sea-elephant fat in six or eight hours. From
this appetite for oily food, their flesh is uneat-
able, nor are their eggs so good as those of the
other birds I have mentioned. |

The smaller oceanic birds of the southern
hemisphere have, for the most part, a residence
in this island; but as they are well known it is
unnecessary to enumerate them.

I fear that in the description of these animals
I have been tedious, since by some readers, such
remarks may be considered as of little import-
ance; but the hints which the peculiar instincts.

60 - THE SHAG ROCKS.

of these creatures furnished, I have preferred
to a minute detail of their dimensions and co-
lours, with which the public are already well ac-
quainted.

Having given an idea of the value of Southern
Discoveries to Great Britain, and said all that is
necessary of the animals fallen in with, I shall

return to the journal of our voyage.
At 2 o’clock on the 17th of April, the east end
of Georgia bore N.E. 4 N. distant about 14
miles. ‘The wind freshened at south, and pro-
duced a cross and disagreeable sea: on the 18th
the wind was southerly, and the weather foggy,
which prevented my getting sight of the shag
rocks as I had intended. ‘They are represented
as situated in the latitude 53° 48’, and longitude
43° 25’, and are said to be even with the water,
which I believe not to be the case, as I have
been credibly informed, that they appear in three
pinnacles, or in the shape of sugar loaves 60 or
70 feet high, with a reef running round them.
These reefs, I presume, have given rise to the
supposed existence of the Aurora Islands. The
Atrevida Spanish man of war having been sent,
in 1796, to survey what are called the Auroras,
probably saw these rocks, and by a confused con-
currence of circumstances, the commander sup-
posed he had discovered three islands, which were
accordingly officially reported to the Spanish

THE.SHAG ROCKS. 61

government. ‘These islands have since found a
place in our charts with the track of the Atrevida
round them; giving credit to which every body
has been led to believe in their existence: con-
sequently as they lie in the track of ships bound
round Cape Horn, the notion must be a great
hinderance to navigation.

An instance of this appeared in the case of a
friend of mine, who informed me that once hav-
ing had to lay to for daylight with a fair wind on
account of these islands, his passage round the
Cape was much protracted.

But as we are now near the place where this
supposed Spanish discovery was made, it may not
be improper to give an account of a search I my-
self made for these islands in my first voyage in
the year 1820. But to shew how undisputed the
authority is for their existence, I shall first insert
a translation of official reports from the Spanish,
relating to this matter. It is as follows:

Extracts translated from the Publications of the
Royal Hydrographical Society of Madrid, pub-
ished by Authority in 1809. Memoria segunda,
tomo 1°. p. 51, 52.

‘* THE AURORA ISLANDS.

«We do not learn that they ever were seen
before the year 1762, in which they were dis-

62 AURORA ISLANDS.

covered by the ship Aurora, which gave them her
name. In 1790 they were likewise seen again
by the ship Princess belonging to the Royal
Philippine Company, Captain Manuel de Oyar-
vido, who shewed us his journal in Lima, and
gave us some information with regard to their
situation. In 1794, the corvette Atrevida went
purposely to sétuate them, having practised in
their immediate vicinity from the 21st to 27th of
January all the necessary observations, and mea--
sured by chronometers the difference of longi-
tude between these islands and the port of Sole-
dad in the Maluinas (or Falkland Isles). The
islands are three: they are very nearly in the
same meridian : the centre one is rather low, and
the other two may be seen at nine leagues’
distance.

‘© Their latitudes and longitudes are as follows:

Latitude of the most south- ° ! # orm
ern island. 53 15 22 §.
Longitude west of Cadiz. 41 40 00
Long. Cadiz and Gr. 617 15“ G.
47 5715

Latitude of the second is-

land or the low one. 53 2 40
Longitude west of Cadiz. 41 38 00 W. Gr. 47 55 15
Latitude of the third island

which has hitherto been

undiscovered, and there-

fore called New Island. 52 37 24S.
Longitude from Cadiz. 41 26 Ow gq.
Reduced to Gr. long. 617 15
EEE 47 48 15 W.

CBUIZE OF THE ATREVIDA. 63 ~

‘‘The captain of the Princess says, that to E.S.E.
of the island, most to the south, at the distance
of 11 miles, there is a bank or shoal, but the cor-
vette Atrevida, which made various efforts to find
it, could not discover it, and only saw different
banks of snow, which, at some distance, ap-
peared like banks or shoals.”

The above is given as the conclusive testimony
of all the surveys; here follow certain particu-
lars less known : —

Appendix to the above-mentioned Work, vol. 1,
p- 213. Number IV.

«An Account of the Campaign or Cruize of
the Corvette Atrevida from the Time of her
leaving the Maluinas in January, 1794, in
search of the Islands Aurora, until her
Arrival at Montevideo on the 15th February
following.

‘‘ Having finished with all possible.exactness the
observations we had to make in Port Soledad, and
having embarked the instruments and whatever
belonged to the corvettes, it was determined on
the 10th of January to weigh anchor and make
sail. ‘The wind had been fresh all day from
S.W., but it calmed towards evening; and on
endeavouring to raise the anchor in that point it

64 CRUIZE OF THE ATREVIDA.

was found so tenaciously embedded that the
launch suffered much. Frem midnight the ne-
cessary labour was continued, and at daylight we
got under weigh, the boats having been first
taken in.

‘s The wind at the time was west, and we im-
proved it, under all sail to the E.S.E. - This
cruise (or campaign) had for its only object to
search for the Aurora Islands (whose position
was considered as uncertain), from 12’ to 15’ of
latitude, and 7° of longitude, according to the
different reckonings of the navigators who had
given information concerning them. We took —
advantage of the winds sometimes favourable,
sometimes contrary to our course, keeping in the
parallel of 533°, and with prudent precaution de-
termined to lie by at nights, On the 15th our ob-
servations and the sight of gulls and other birds
gave us indications of being near the islands. In
these lyings to, we suffered the double martyrdom
of losing precious time, and encountering rollings
and a cold that were insufferable even to those
who had just experienced the intemperance of
Cape Horn.

‘¢ At day-break on the 16th, we’ saw two large
banks of snow or ice distance 5 miles to the N.E.
The pyramidal figure would not have failed to
have flattered our hopes if their proximity had
not destroyed the illusion; latitude 53° 40’ the

14

CRUIZE OF THE ATREVIDA. 65

parallel of the islands prevented | us ‘advancing a
mile, ‘without a clear horizon.

- © Until the 18th, in the morning, ‘continued a:
fog : the wind was not much, but the sea was still
very cross. The observation of ‘mid-day was
54° 11’ S. of latitude, half a degree south of the
parallel established for our investigations. We
luffed immediately, to gain what we had lost, with
every’ possible sail. In the evening we ‘dis-
covered a large hummock in the form of a sugar-
loaf, which we took fora bank of snow. Al
the next day and night the- fog continued, so
that we could not distinguish objects at half -a
mile’s distance. —

«« On the 20th in the evening, after some hours
of'calm,and variable ‘winds, it blew from ‘the
S. S. E.; and somewhat cleared away. We steered
east, and on the 21st, at- mid-day, found our-
selves in: latitude 58° 40’ S., and longitude
42° W. Cadiz (equal to longitude 48° 17’ 15”
W. Greenwich.) |

‘¢ At 54 P. M. we perceived to the northward,
at'a great distance, a dark lump, which’ appeared
to all of us like a mountain of ice. Notwithstand-
ing, we bore away for it under a press of sail ;
and'when we:-were near it, ‘we ‘saw distinctly. a
great mountain in the form of a pavilion (or
tent) divided vertically into two - parts; -the

F

66 CRUISE OF THE ATREVIDA:

eastern: extremity white, aid the westera very
dark ; on which latter side wad a snowy band<
— and we also noticed some breaks 3 in the dark
streak.

«< We all agreed that this was the island ; ‘wt
‘we saw no other, and none of the circumstances
agreed with those reported of the .Auroras,*

* Extracts from some ofthode voyages. “ In. 2768, the ship
Aurora, on her return ftom Lima, saw two islands, 45 leagues
to the W. of the Maluinas, according to account, running
N.E. ahd S, W., distatit 2} to $ leagues. ‘The eastern was
the entallest, and had a reef which extended towards ‘the —
other ; leaving, however, a-clear channel, through whigh-that
ship passed. The western had 5 to 6 miles in extent, frem
N. to.S. On their inaccessible sides, they could not per-
€eive any bays. One imile to the north, no ‘sounditigs with
120 fathoms. ‘The observations of the same day pldeed i
in 53° 15’ S., and in 326° 22! of longitude from the meridian
of Teneriffe, ‘corrected to the sight of making Ascension.”

' Tn 1769, the ship San Miguel being inthe lat. of 58°27'S.,
and long. 318° 36! from Teneriffe, saw six hummacks. of
and of different sizes; and thinking them to be the islands
Beauchene, to the southward of the Maluinas, corrected their
reckoning, and afterwards made to the island of Ascension
in 8°, when they thought themselves in the meridiasi of
‘Trinidad, or Ascension of America. So-enormous a dif-
ference of 164° made them suspect that they had been the
Auroras.”

‘“‘ In 1774, the ship Aurora saw one evening a-head several
-hummocks, which they thaught to be-banks of mow. ‘They
continued during the night ‘lying-to, and next morning ssw
them.again. The.green water continuing, and several birds
which they had seen two days before, they approgched it,

ORUIZE OF. PHE ATREVIDA. OF

"90 Wie passed within one mile of the island,
coasting it on the western side; and, from that
point, it presented us the view of a sharp rock,
trending from north to south. The southern
part, constantly exposed: to the freezing winds
from that quarter, was covered with snow; and
being cut perpendicularly on the north-west
side, with winds much more temperate and moist,
the land was there perfectly. discoverable. .From
thence, steering 8. W. we lay off and on during
the night, to see whether the observations
of the next day could be made under happier
circumstances, |
“ At daylight, we saw another island at a great
distance, also covered with snow, but not so
high as.the former one. At 6° we might be
distant 10 miles, to the N. }.N.E. (N. b. E.),
and the first was seen to the §.E., distant about.
8 miles, At9" we lost sight of it; and sithough

and saw that it was an island stretching from N. W. to 9. E,,
about $ leagues in length; and, being in its parallel, they
_ observed, in 58° 38! of latitude, and by estimation in longi»

tude 326° 10’ from Teneriffe. To the E. S: E. ‘from this
island, at three or four leagues’ distance, they saw another,

whiok shewed a heavy surf, and which they. estimated to:be
Ip 59° 49! latitude, and 326° 33! longitude from Teneriffe.
Two other vessels, the Pearl in 1779, ‘and the Dolores
_in 1790, saw: these islands also, but without noticing their
peation,’” — | wo
F@

68 CRUIZE .OF. THE ATREVIDA::

the wind freshened from ‘the. N.W. we ,went
round it. without effect; because the clouds
not having dissipated, we could not get the
latitude at meridian. We, nevertheless, waited ;
and at one o’clock had an. altitude,. and an-
other at three o’clock, by which we concluded
the latitude which referred to the islands we
had seen, and. the longitude calculated by the
chronometers: the first was determined to be in
latitude 53° 15’ 22” S., and longitude 41° 4/ 0” W.
of Cadiz. The wind was now at S.W., and.we
hauled to the southward, seeking in higher
latitudes more favourable winds to get to the
westward, and make the coast of Patagonia. -.
“On the 24th at mid-day, we were in 55° 28°
latitude S. ; and as we did not meet better winds,
but rougher seas and most intense colds, it was
resolved to lessen the latitude, in search of more
favourable weather. We stood to the northward,
on the larboard tack, with all sail; and on the
26th, at evening, discovered to the E.}N. E. a
white lump, which at first appeared to us a field
of ices but its immobility soon convinced us
that it was an island. It isa large rock, making
in sharp pinnacles, but formed like a saddle-hill.
‘Lhe N. E. was covered with snow, but the south-
ern part, being perpendicular, would not retain
it,. At a mile from this last point, there ex-
tended several breakers, terminating in small

SEARCH FOR THE: AURORAS. 69

islands, _We coasted along this great’ rock at
a- regular distance, and sounded frequently,
without finding bottom. On the 27th, in the
morning, we had good observations of latitude
and longitude ; which, referred to the said island,
placed it in 52° 37’ 24” S. latitude, and 41° 26°
longitude west of Cadiz.”

‘In consequence of the credibility of these
documents, I was induced to make astrict search
for these islands ; and shall now, for the benefit.
of’ navigation, relate the circumstances of the
investigation.

Having examined the daily rates of my chro»
nometers in the harbour of St. John’s in Staten:
Land, and taken on board a supply of wood. and
water, we weighed anchor on the 27th of Janu-
ary, 1820, and made sail to the eastward. At. —
eight o’clock P. M. the east end of Staten Land
bore S.W. by W., distant five leagues. During
the 28th and 29th, the wind was from W. N. W.
with hazy weather; at noon our latitude was.
53° 17’, and longitude 55°22’. We continued
under a press’ of sail, keeping the. latitude of
58° 15’, and on the 31st we had fine wea-
ther with the wind from the northward. In
the forenoon we passed some kelp, ‘and had
several birds about the ship, which gave me
hopes that we were approaching the- islands.

F 3

78 SEARCH FOR THE AURORAS.

Our latitude, -& noon, by observation whe
52° 47’ &., and longitude by. chrondmeters
48° 47’ W,, and by D. R. 48°:38’. Inthe even-
ing i -dbserved the variation of the compass to
be 16°11’. At seven in the eventing we had
passed over the (laid down) ‘latitude -and longi-
tude of these islands, without observing the‘least.
appearance of land. We obtained and continued
in the parallel of latitude, running through the
place assigned ‘to them till we arrived in the
longitude of 46°. d considered this allowance for
errotin longitude to-be pretty.amples -partioularly —
since the Atrevida sailed from Port Seledad in
the Falkland Islands; from which, 40 the place
for our anvestigation, was but about three -days’
sail: hence her common reckoning could not
have erred much, and she ‘had chronometers
which should have been nearly exact. These
considerations produced in my mind a degree
of surprise; and I could not, at that moment,
reconcile my experience with ‘the facts which
had been asserted. I was resolved, however,
not to abandon the object of my pursuit, without
being fully satisfied ofthe truth or falsity ofthis
geographical problem. It was:‘now remarkably.
clear ; ‘and, from the-mast-head, Jand of commoh
height might:-have ‘been seen at the distance-of
eaght leagues; but ‘still, nothing -6f the -kind

was observed. We next steered §.5S.:‘E. into

SBARCH FOR THE AURORAS. 7i

the: latitude of. 58°.t7', and then W. by S., in
order to get sight of the southern island; but
in -vdin — not the smallest indication of land
appeared. On the 2d, it blew a strong gale from
the IN, N. W. with thick weather; and we hove
te, under a elose-reefed main-topsail, sent down
the top-gallant yards, and struck the masts. At
noon the weather cleared up, and we got the
meridian altitude of the sun, which gave latitude
52° 58’, and our longitude by chronometers was
48° 6’, our latitude by D. R. being 53°20’. We
had experienced a northerly current of 22 mules,
part. of which must be atttibuted to error of
reckoning.

The situation for the middle island bore now
3. 83° E., distant eight miles. We had a clear
view of 6 or 7 leagues, but nothing ‘like land
was to be seen. “ithe only chance now left .us
for &nding. these Auroras, I conceived, was by
making various courses ‘between the latitudes
of 58° 15/ and.62°.87’ ; and this we did, till we
yeachedithe longitude by.chronometers.of 46°.29’.
Having all this time seen nothing resem-
bling sland, .except fogsbanks which -had aften
given as severe disappointment, we returned
westward; .and, .on-the 5th, our:latitude at. noon
was 52° 4’, .and longitude ‘by dhronometers
48° 83’. ‘We had thus .again - Passed over the

| rh.

12 PROBABLE CAUSES .OF MISTAKE

site of these islands to no purpose. On_the 6th,
our latitude by observation was 53° 24’, and lon-
gitude by chronometers 49° 49’. We-continued
to stand to the westward under easy sail, with
the wind northerly ; and on the 7th,. our latitude
by observation was 58° 383’, and longitude by
chronometers 51° 5’. Having thus diligently
searched through the supposed situation of the
Auroras, I concluded that the discoverers must
have. been misled by appearances ; I therefore
considered any further cruize to be an impro-
vident waste of time; .and, to the gratification
of my officers and crew, .directed our course to
the Falkland Islands.

From the apparent validity of the printed do-
cuments setting forth the existence of the Au-
roras, I was naturally led to consider in what
way those Spanish officers could have fallen into
so great a mistake. There are two ways in
which it might be accounted for, (with men un-
accustomed to traversing cold and tempestuous
seas, encumbered with ice, ) and into which they
might easily fall in their conclusions. The re-
ports of voyagers previous to the cruize of the
Atrevida are, from their imperfect knowledge of
the science of navigation, not much deserving of
attention. The investigation performed by the
Atrevida, however, is certainly a matter of some
consequence, from their having been particularly

OF :THE :SPANISH -NAVIGATORS. 13

instructed :to ascertain the ‘situation: .of, these
islands ; and it was to be expected, therefore, that
this hydrographical point should have.been. left
undoubted. , |

.. They sailed from Port Soledad onthe 14th of
January, having chronometers on board, -a-cir-
cumstance which ‘ought to have insured -ac-
curacy,.and proceeded into the vicinity-of -the
place pointed out for their research. On the
21st, they ‘saw an island ; which, as they express
it, appeared like a. great: mountain, in the form of
@ pavilion or tent divided vertically into two
parts. This may possibly have been the-Shag
Rocks, which lie nearly in the same latitude,
but differ six degrees in longitude. About this
time,..much ice was found. drifting from ‘the
southward, :and it is probable that it had formed
round the base.of these rocks; and the peaks ap-
pearing above, clear of snow, and black, would
leave no doubt of that part being land. The
ice formed on the south side, and probably
forced on this reef of rocks, might be taken for a
range of land covered with snow ; and upon the
same data it may be presumed that what they
describe as the ‘second island was an ‘ice-berg 5

"and the third, which is described as having -been

seen on the 27th, was, perhaps, the same as that
which was seen on the 21st, viz. the Shag Rocks,
with the appearance of the -base altered by the

4 #NONsEXISTENCE OF THE AMRORAS.

ice ‘having ‘shifted its position. ~The diffevenes
of longitude between the Shag.Rocks and the
place assigned to the Auroras seems hardly to
admit of my conjecture of their being the same:j
but it is well-known, that the lougitude of places,
im many instances, has been egregiously aisne-
presented, from assuming different meridians, a3
also from typographical and various other sais-
takes resulting from ignorance.

The ouly other way in which a reason can be
advanced to account for the fallacy of this dis-
covery is, that what they saw were all ice-<slands,
incorporated with earth, similar to the one
which I have mentioned having seen far to the
southward.

Having thus brought to a conclusion, what J
consider a subject of interest to hydrographieal
science, viz. the ascertaining the non-existence
of these islands, I now return to our own posi-
tien, when by reason -of foggy weather -we were
unable to get sight of the Shag Rocks.

' ‘We proceeded to the westward under as much
sail as we could carry ; but the wind was so con-
tinually shifting between S.W. and N.'W. that
we made'but little-progress: and our only advan-
tage was. obtained ‘by ‘tacking as the wind shifted,
for however short'a time. ‘The fore-topsail was.
almost constantly -close-reefed, and frequently
furled. ‘Our-consert-continued in-company, and

: +! 3@98 DF SOWSPRIT: 75

we inegdected no opportunity of making westing,
(On the.22d of April, our Jatitude by observation
was 56° 15’, and longitude by -chronceasters
46° 49’, by D. R. 47° 11.

. Dating the 23d and 2#th, we had the wind
from east 60 sonth; but at noon ef the 24th x
shifted sto the S.W. The weather confmued
to be wery unsettled; and the wind .often shitt-
ing, and :continuing to blow hard, prodwced a
gea.so irregular, that several of our shrouds and
backsteys ‘were ‘carried away ; and but for the
precuution I‘had taken, of having equal -to three
additional shrouds on a side, to the lower «nasta,
we certainly should have lost them. Sailing in
the neighbourhood of the supposed Auroras,
with long nights and heavy gales, would have
caused great anxiety had we not been previously
satisfied of their non-existence; and I certainly
felt gratified at deriving this benefit from the
pains I had formerly taken to ascertain that cir-
cumstance.

On the 3d, at noon, it blew a heavy gale at
W.S, W. and we lay to. In the afternoon our
consort lost her bowsprit, by a heavy sea passing
over it, though only a small part of it was then
without the bows. We fortunately had a spar,
with which we supplied her, when the weather
became moderate.

On the 2d of May, at noon, our latitude by

6 ARRIVAL ‘AT ‘THE ‘FALKLANDS.

observation ‘was 58° 44’, and ‘longitude by~chro-
‘nometers -59° 27’, ‘and ‘by D.R. 61° 6. The
‘weather ‘was still boisterous; but every interval,
during which sail could be made, ‘was gladly
embraced ; and the following day, at 11 o'clock,
‘we saw the island of Beauchene, bearing N.W.,
by W. distant 5 leagues. We proceeded to the
-westward, ‘along the south side of the Falklands,
and, owing to a succession of adverse gales, and
‘a strong easterly current, we did not get into
‘harbour till the 11th of May, when we came to
‘anchor in New Island, at the west end of the
Falklands. oe

CHAP. IV.

DEATH OF A . SEAMAN ; SUPERSTITIONS. — FALKLAND
‘ISLANDS. — CAPTAIN BARNARD’S NARRATIVE OF HIS

: SOLITARY. RESIDENCE ON NEW. ISLAND. — LOSS. OF THE

. CORVETTE , L URANIE. — MUTINY. ON BOARD THE HE-
ROIND. — FALKLAND ISLANDS TAKEN POSSESSION OF BY
CAPTAIN: JEWITT, . FOR. THE .PATRIOT _.GOVERNMENT ..OF
BUENOS AYRES.

My intention being to winter hére, I ‘chose an
anchorage in Quaker Harbour, in Swan Island,
for our winter quarters, struck the brig’s top-
masts, and made her secure in all respects against
the heavy gales which might be expected. The
cutter I kept efficient, for the purpose of pursu-
ing our business.

It would be tedious to narrate minutely our
daily proceedings, I shall therefore mention only
what particularly occupied my attention.

Our cooper and carpenters constructed estab-
lishments on shore for carrying on their respect-
ive duties, and our general harbour arrangements
were made. JI jwas particular in observing the.
winds and weather, as I was quite aware that
few people are acquainted with the nature of
this climate. An abstract of these observations
I shall give in another place.

In order to avoid the necessity of shortening
the voyage, on account of provisions, I reduced

"8 DEATH OF A SEAMAN.

each man’s allowance, in both vessels, to half a
pound of salt meat per day; four pounds of bread,
one pint of flour, three half pints of oatmeal,
and the same of peas, for each man, per week.
The want of flesh meat was made’ up with what
a hunting party could procure, together with
the gees¢ found on the shores; which, thongh
excessively fishy, were well relished with akeen
appetite.

On the 18th of June, on returning to the brig,
from a cruize in the Beaufoy, I received the dis-
tressing information of'a man having died in my
absence. His name was Francisco Antonio: he
was a native of Terciera, one of the western
islands. It appeared that John Atkinson, the car-
penter, had done every thing for him which his
incompetent skill in physic, though prompted by
a feeling heart, could suggest ; but without avail,
‘The deceased had been several months in a cone
sumption, and was likewise subject to cramp in
the bowels; of which it appeared he had died,
By the time I arrived, he had been dead three
days, and the carpenter had prepared a coffin,
The ceremony of interment now only remained,
which we immediately performed in Swan
Island. I read the funeral service of the Engr’
lish church over the body; and, to mark out
the spot, we placed a board ‘at the head of the

grave.

SUPERSTIBION OF SEAMEN. 73

. Tiae death: of. this man.made. such: a melan-
choly impzession on the mind of the cooper in
particular, theé his health was.a good deal im-
paired. He had been about the deceased during
his illness, and was present at. his death ; and,
having oly the company.of the carpenter aad
4 boy, in an uninhabited country, with no variety
whieh might .bave diverted. his attention fsona
‘ the contemplation of so mournful an event, a
wedknesg of mind was the eonsequence.; Such ©
feelings, when: they produce mental. imbecility,
’ eertainly should be discouraged; but they are
generally preferable to a careless and callous
disregard of - the fate of others, and the selemn
consideration of futurity. Our dog, too, was ab-
served to jump. into the sleeping-cabin of the
deceased, and to exhibit actions which were:con-
sidered as bearing a very mysterious significa-
tion. Sailors are generally believed to be super-
stiious ; and certainly it is. surprising that thase
men, who feel undaunted amidst the slanghter
of « hard-fought battle, should tremble with the
epposite extreme of cowardice at the idea of
a ghost or hobgoblin. These impressiona, ne
doubt, take their rise from the practice of anilers
amusing. ene another with frightful steries on
their still and dark night-watches.

. Durmg the detter end of July, and the months
of August and September, we had several heavy

80 FALKLAND -ISLANDS.'-

gales from the. southward, with snow-;: but‘it
seldom: remained longer on the ground than. ..
twenty-four hours, except. on the tops: ‘of . the -
highest. mountains. ;

Finding that our cargoes could not be come.
pleted here, I resolved on going to South Shet-
land ; and accordingly, in September, we refitted -
both. vessels, .and moved them westward.12 miles,
to New Island. :

On; the 7th of October, having prepared, but.
with scanty means, for.a.southern navigation,’
we weighed the anchors, and proceeded towards: -
South Shetland. '

Having ‘spent two winters among. the Falkland
Islands, .and visited nearly all ‘their harbours, :I -
may venture to speak of them with the expect-' .
ation of advancing something that may be useful —
to strangers. .

This uninhabited group, which is now gene- .
rally known by the name of the Falkland Islands,
consists of nearly ninety islands, lying between the -
latitude of 51°: and 32° 45’ S., and between lon- .
gitude 57° 20’ and 61°40’ W. Two of them are |
of considerable extent, and these (the two main
islands, from which the others take their name, )
are properly called the East and West Falklands.
The western island is by much the largest; but
is ‘so indented, that its exact size-cannot be easily
ascertained. . _Its greatest length, from N. E.-to -

THE . FALKLAND ISLANDS. 81

5. W. is nearly 100. miles; and its greatest breadth
about 50. The eastern island, the length of
which from N.E. to S.W. is about '78 miles, and
its greatest breadth 47, is also so indented, that
in one place two bays nearly meet.

Between the two main islands the sound is from
7 to 12 miles. broad ; and many of the smaller
islands are situated in it. This channel is navi-
gable for ships of any size, and by attending to
the best chart, which is that of Lieutenant Ed-
gar, it may be passed through with safety, as all
the dangers are there laid down. I cannot omit
this. opportunity of bearing my strongest testi-
mony to the accuracy with which Lieutenant.
Edgar has delineated the coast of the western
main island, and the surrounding small ones of
this group. ' ;

Not being personally acquainted with the au-
thor, I am induced. to recommend his chart en-
tirely by the experience I have had of its great
utility, during the many dark and stormy nights
which I have passed among’ these’ islands. . The
harbours in this sound I have anchored in, and
have found them commodious, and, indeed, equal.
to any in the world. On the northern coast of
the western island there are many entrances; the
principal one is that leading to Port Egmont, and —
which may be seen from some. distance at sea.

G

82 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.

By keeping the opening about S.E. by S.. (by
compass), it may be sailed into without risk.

About 9 miles N.N.W. from the entrance lie
two islets; by passing within half a mile of the
western side of these the course will be about
S.S.E. 4 E.

The English settlement was made at this
port, but certainly the site was ill chosen.
The ruins of part of the town still remain, and
stand on the south side of a mountain not less
than 600 feet high. The settlers had extended
their gardens seemingly to the westward of this
mountain, but during the winter the solar rays
must have beer almost lost to them throughout
the greater part of the day. How such a bleak
and unpropitious situation could have been their
choice, I am at a loss to understand, unless it
were on account of the anchorage.

The harbour is spacious even to a fault; for
its enormous size, during strong winds, renders
the communication with the shore inconvenient.
The best anchorage is immediately off the creek
at the foot of the ruins bearing N.N.W., in9
fathoms water, about three fourths of a mile from
the shore. Off the east point of the creek runs
a reef which is marked out by the kelp. The
bottom here is so tough, that, after having broke
-many blocks and handspokes, I was obliged to

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 83

heave the vessel close down at low water, and
wait for the tide to flow the anchor out of the
ground. —

The best watering place is at the head of the
creek, and the most expeditious and convenient
method of obtaining water is to fill the casks’ at
low water mark, and raft them off to the vessel.
Fuel, the next necessary article, may be obtained
by digging peat, about a hundred yards above
the top of the creek ; but it requires drying, and
is not so good as is to be found at some other
places.

The tide flows here at 10 minutes past*7
o’clock on the full and change of the moon, and
rises about 9 feet. A few years ago refreshments
were plentiful in this port, as there were many
hogs, which had been left by the settlers, run-
ning wild on Saunders’ Island; but they are now
nearly extinct. Upland geese, which a few years
ago were very numerous, are now scarcely to
be found ; so.that the only supplies which may
be expected are ducks and geese which feed
on fishy substances on the shores, and thus
very soon become nauseous to the taste, - It is
proper thus to mention what the islands are capa-
ble of affording now, for the reports of several
years ago do not apply to the present time.
An instance of this occurred in the case of a
French ship which arrived at Port Egmont in

G 2

84 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.

the year 1820, for a cargo of seal skins and oil.
The captain was a lieutenant in the French navy,
and his ship was elegantly and expensively fitted
out. It appeared that the voyage was projected
upon the foundation of his father having, forty-
two years before, been at this port, and at that
time found the beaches lined with sea elephants
and seals. The son expected the same to be still
the case; but as none were to be found, he
abandoned the voyage, with great loss, no doubt,
to his employers.

The mistake of Commodore Byron as to the.
fecundity of the seal might be easily fallen into.
He says, (vide Byron’s Voyage, ) ‘* We were not
surprized at meeting with such a great number
of seals, when we afterwards found that they
had sometimes 18 or more at a litter. Sea lions
of a prodigious size are also found on the coast.
We had many battles with this amphibious ani-
mal, the killing one of which was frequently an
hour’s work for six men.”

The seal, as is now known, brings forth or-
dinarily not more than one at a time ; and I may
remark a circumstance which might cause the
Commodore to fall into error in his conclusions
on this subject. ‘The disproportion between the
large male and female seal is nearly as great as
between a cow and her calf. One large male,
like the grand seignor, has frequently when on

w=

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 85

the beach from 15 to 20 females under his im-
mediate dominion. These, from: their compara-
tive smallness, might by -the Commodore. be
easily taken for the young, and the-male for the
mother. | |
- With regard to the killing of the sea lion-(pro-
perly the sea elephant), itis. now to one man,
acquainted: with the practice, the work of three
minutes; but without stabbing it in-the heart,
or breaking its brain, the feat is so difficult that
probably as long a time would be requisite as that
mentioned by Byron.

The next: principal anchorage to Port Egmont

’ is West Point Harbour; which ‘lies at-the western

extremity of the south land of Berkeley’s Sound.
The chart accurately exhibits. two-passages to
this anchorage; one by the north, the other by
the south. The Jason Islands lie to the N.W.,

and are--much in. the way of the southern ap-

proach. Strangers should be.careful to avoid
these islands in. the night-time, or in unsettled
weather, .as the tide runs so-strong and irregular.
through them as. to render a ship almost un-
manageable. ‘The south passage to West. Point
Harbour is easily made by being careful when
coming from the westward to haul. close.round
West Point Island, so as: to enter the gut or chan-.
nel: by neglecting this precaution, with the wing
from:the. westward,. you may fall to leeward of
6 3

86 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.

the passage, and find it difficult to work out of the
lee bays, into which there is frequently a heavy
westerly swell rolling. The latitude of the an-
chorage is 51° 24’ 15”, and the longitude by a
number of deductions from celestial observations
and chronometers 60° 36’ 30”. The best an-
chorage is abreast of a small cove on the south
side of the harbour in five fathoms, over a bot-
tom of sand and mud. The velocity of the tide
is. scarcely perceptible in this situation, though it
rises about 9 feet by the shore, and it flows on
the full and change of the moon at 30 minutes
past 7 in the morning. Water may be procured
at the top of the cove; and at the head of the
harbour there is also a water run, in which mul-
lets may be caught by building a fish wire. This
kind of refreshment is abundant during the
spring and autumn of this hemisphere, both here
and at Beaver Island, as also at Little Port Eg-
mont, a bay in the west side of the passage to
Port Egmont. Rock ord have been likewise
caught on the north shore of Swan Island, but
they are very scarce. West Point Island has a
cove, in which we lay during two winter months
in 1820; but it is not large enough for general
convenience. At the west end of the island is a
rookery (if I may call it so) of the small alba-
tross, which in October affords a good supply of
eggs. Some brush-wood grows around the cove,

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 87

but it is too sniall to be of use, eve as-fuel. In

coming through the gut from the .southward.
with the ebb tide, which runs to the N.E. with

great rapidity, the great harbour when opened
must be hastily entered to avoid being swept to
the: northward by the tide.

From the south entrance of the gut, North
Island lies S. 25° W. distant 22 miles. New
Island I consider the most easy of access of any

in.the western quarter. Ship Harbour, which is:
commodious, -lies in latitude 51° 42’ 36’, and —

longitude 61° 9’; Though by difference of time

from’ Cape Horn, the longitude of which I

make by lunar observations and time-keepers
67° 13’ 45”, it will be 61° 15’. The mean 61° 9’

may, however, be nearer the truth. In coming:
from the westward in the latitude of 51° 42’, New.
Islarid may be easily distinguished by its being.

the most northerly large island of that cluster,
and ‘by two small islands lying at the north end,

called Saddle Island and North Island: between.

these, and the north end of New Island, is a
clear passage ; but in strong winds the tide rip-

ples violently, which, however, I have passed |

through without accident.

Ship Harbour being the anchorage in this
island the most to be recommended, I shall ob-
serve that in proceeding to it with a strong west-
erly wind, as rounding the north end. of the

G4

ee
WR eee ee

88 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.

island, the sail on the ship should be particularly .
attended to, as the gusts of wind off the high:
land blow with great violence.. With the wind
at S.W. the south passage may be chosen. A.
cluster, called Seal Rocks, lie off the south end:
of New Island, between which and the rocks is:
the best passage, and by keeping without the
edge off the kelp, which lies off a short distance
from the end of the island, there is no danger..
The small round islands, on the eastern side of.
New Island, have good channels within, and
between them Ship Harbour is the third bay
from the south, and may be easily recognised, .
by having a small island, which I called Ship:
Island, init. Behind this is the best anchorage
in seven fathoms water, in a bottom of stiff clay;.
with the south point of Ship Island bearing’ .
S.E., covering the S.E. point of the bay. The
anchorage is perfectly land-locked. :

The want of wood on these islands would be
a great inconveniency, were it not that good
peat is very abundant. On Ship Island it is in-
exhaustible: I have burnt many tons, and found:
it an excellent substitute for coal. In order to
get it dry, it is necessary te pull it from the sides
of the pit, not very deep ; and as there are seve-
ral peat holes, by working them alternately
the material may be procured in a state fit for
use.

HE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 89

- Good water may be obtained at a sandy beach
abreast of the anchorage; but the well from
which the water is generally taken is so near’ the
beach that high tides render it brackish. Owing
to this circumstance we found,-when‘at séa, that
several of our casks of water were undrinkable.
The well or pool might with little trouble be
made eight or ten yards higher on the bank,
and the water be passed to the casks with
buckets.

. This island .is mountainous, ‘and its’ western
side presents a range of frightful precipices, one
of which is 550 feet above the sea, which. in
westerly storms beats agamst its base with ex-
traordinary violence. The eastern side, on the
contrary, falls sloping into points forming bays.
The length of the island is, from north to south,
about seven miles, and the mean breadth about
two and a half. . :

- New Island is remarkable for having been for
two years the solitary residence of a Captain
J. Barnard, an American, whose vessel: was run
away. with in the year 1814, by the crew of an
English ship, which, on her passage: from Port
Jackson, had been wrecked on ‘the south side of
these islands. I met with Captain Barnard in
1821, at the place of his exile, and his conversa-
tion naturally turned to that subject, which, be-
ing interesting, ‘“ I greedily devoured.” A

gO SOLITARY RESIDENCE OF

particular account of this residence on an un-
inhabited island would not fail of being consider
ed almost as wonderful as the celebrated fiction
of Robinson Crusoe, since there was a .great
similarity in their situations. The principal. in-
cidents attendant upon this event were as fol-
lows : Captain Barnard was at New Island with
his vessel in the performance of a voyage for
seal furs, and when on the south side of the
islands, he met with the crew of the wrecked
English ship. Their number might be about 30,
including several passengers, some of whom
were ladies, He kindly took them to his vessel,
and treated them with all the hospitality which
their destitute situation required. Captain Bar-
nard was from America, with which England
was then at war, and this circumstance created
doubts as tothe sincerity of their friendly inten-
tions to one another, though he had promised
to land them on his passage home at some port
in the Brazils. |

Owing to the additional number of people,
hunting parties were frequently sent out to pro-
cure supplies, and when the Captain, with four
of his people, were on an excursion of this kind,
the wrecked crew cut the cable, and in defiance
of the Americans, who were on board, ran away
with the ship to Rio Janeiro ; whence they pro-
ceeded to North America. |

.. CAPTAIN BARNARD, G1

On Captain Barnard’s return to New Island,
he was struck with astonishment at finding his
ship carried off, as he had: never suspected
any design of the kind. On reflection, how-
ever, he soon guessed the cause ; as it was quite
apparent that the fear of being taken to Ame-
rica, where they would become prisoners.of war,
had been the motive to the commission . of. this
action, which was.a bad: return for the asylum.
Captain. Barnard had afforded the perpetrators
of it. . His conduct towards them, certainly,: did
not justify their entertaining such a suspicion;
but it seems they chose rather to act dishonour-
ably than trust to his protestations, that he would
land them in the Brazils.

Nothing in the. way of supplies. having. been
left for poor Barnard and his four companions,,
of which even the captors of his ship ought.to
have thought, he was forced to consider how:
they were to subsist; and recollecting that he
had planted a few potatoes, they directed their
attention to them, and, in the course of the se-
cond season, obtained a, serviceable supply.. They
hada dog which now ..and then: caught a pig ;
and the eggs of the:albatross, which were stored
at the proper season, with potatoes,.formed a
substitute for bread, and the skins of. the seals
for clothes. They built a house. of stone, still
remaining on the _ island, which | was strong

04 SOLITARY RESIDENCE OF

enough to withstand the storms of. winter, and
they might have been comparatively happy, but

that they were cut off from their relations and
friends, without any immediate prospeet. of being

removed from the island.

- To add to the misfortunes of Captain Barnard

in being separated from: his wife and children,

his companions, over whom he exercised no au-

thority, but merely dictated what he considered:
was for their mutual advantage, became impa-

tient even of this mild controul, took an oppor-

tunity to steal the boat, and he was left on the

island alone. After being thus entirely aban-

doned, ‘he spent the time in preparing clothes
from the skin of the seal, and in collecting food -
for winter. Once or twice.a day he used to

ascend a hill, from which there was a wide pros-

pect of the ocean, to see if any vessel ap-

proached; but always returned disappointed

and forlorn, — no ship was.to be observed. The

four sailors, in the meanwhile, having experi-

enced their own inability to provide properly

for themselves, returned to him after an abserice

of some months. He still found much diffi-

culty in preserving peace among ‘his compa--
nions; indeed one of them had planned his

death, but fortunately it was discovered in

time to be prevented. He placed this man

alone with some provisions on a small island in

CAPTAIN BARNARD. -: 93

Quaker Harbour, and in the course of three
weeks so great a change was made on his mind,
that when Captain Barnard took him off, he was
worn down with reflection on his crimes, and
truly: penitent. |

They were now attentive to the advice of
their commander, and: the above-mentioned
offender became truly religious and. exemplary
in his behaviour. In this way they continued
to live, occasionally visiting the neighbouring
island in search of provisions, till the end of two
years, when they were taken off in the month of -
December, 1815, by an English whaler bound
for the Pacific. Captain Barnard informed me,
that a British man of war had been sent ex-
pressly from Rio Janeiro to take them off, but
by some accident: the vessel, though at the
islands, - did not fall in with them.

I have already made such observations on the
navigation of this division of the islands, as I
considered essentially necessary for the direc-
tion of strangers, as well as for general inform-
ation, and I shall now say something in regard
to the eastern main island. The principal
port: has many names, but that by which it is
generally known is: Port Louis, at the head of
Berkeley’s Sound. It is situated at the eastern
extremity of the island, and the anchorage is off
the ruins of Saint Louis, 12 miles’ from the en-

94 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS;

trance of the sound. The remains of about 30
houses, which had been well built, are still
standing. ‘They appear to have been erected
by French emigrants from St. Maloes, about the
year 1764. These industrious and enterprising
people, after having made considerable. pro-
gress in fertilising the ground, were displaced
by the Spaniards, who claimed the islands.
They, however, partly through political motives,
that it might not be of consequence enough to
become a bone of contention and involve them
with other powers, or probably on account of
their having vast possessions in other parts of
the globe, neglected the improvement of the

country, and latterly entirely abandoned it. . It
is matter of regret that these French emigrants
were not allowed to remain, as a settlement at
this point of the South Atlantic would evidently
afford great facilities to navigation. ‘The exten-
sive tracts of ground, well clothed with grass,
and the quantity of fine cattle running wild on
the island, are sufficient proofs of its being a
country that. might be settled to advantage.
The winters are mild, the temperature being
seldom so low as the freezing point. Several
of my crew, indeed, went without stockings
during the greater part of the winters we spent
there. The south wind, however, is cold and
stormy, but it is not frequent: the prevailing

FRENCH AND SPANISH POSSESSORS. 95

winds are between S.W. and N.W., which, blow-
ing from thé coast of Patagonia, are comfortably
temperate. .

This climate appears to be in.general much
more temperative now than it was forty years
ago, the cause of which may probably be, . that
immense bodies of ice were then annually found
in the latitude of 50°.. This ice, passing to the
northward, between the Falkland Islands and
South Georgia, would necessarily lower the
temperature of both air. and water, and con-
sequently an unfavourable opinion of the climate
was produced. .

During the three voyages which I have made
in these seas, I have never seen southern ice
drifting to the northward of .South Georgia.
Great changes must, therefore, have taken place
in the south polar ice; but this I leave for con-
jecture, upon the data which the appearance of
the sea at the utmost southern limit of my voys.
age affords.

. The harbour of Port Louis lies in latitude
51° 32’, and longitude 58° 3’ 30’. Theentrance
of the bay, which is formed on one side by the
N.E. point of the main island, is immediately
seen on approaching within a few miles; and to
Hog Island, about seven miles up the bay, -the
passage. is quite open. On drawing near this
island, two large beds of kelp will be observed,

96 LOSS OF THE

between which is a passage running about W.
by N. I have sounded among this kelp, and
found from seven to ten fathoms; but as there
may be rocks interspersed, it should not be
passed through with a ship. The channel to
the anchorage off the ruins may be seen,.. by re-
ferring to the plan which I took, with as much
accuracy as my peculiar circumstances would
allow.. |
. Off the N.E. point of the bay there is a ledge
above water, called the Volunteer Rocks, and
N.E. by E., about three quarters of a mile from
the point, lies a sunken rock, upon which a
French frigate was lost in February, 1820. AsI
was. among the islands at the time, and on the
spot soon affer it happened, I had an opportu-
nity of ascertaining the circumstances attending
this disaster, which were these : —
~Commodore Freycenet had performed a voy-
age of science almost round the world, and after
having spent nearly three years, was returning
home when this distressing accident happened.
It appeared that the abruptness of the coast had
inspired them with confidence in approaching it ;
and they had incautiously hauled ‘within three
quarters of a mile of a point called the Volun-
teer Rocks, where there is always a strong ripple
of the tide. Being near high water at the time,
the break over the rock was not visible, and the
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EORVETTE L’URANIE. - OF

ship struck upon this point,.and soon beat a hole
in her bottom. She, however, presently slid off
into deep water, and the pumps were necessarily
set in motion, but were not sufficient to keep
her free. The Commodore hoped to save his
vessel by laying her on the ground well up the
bay, and had actually reached a sandy beach,
about ten miles from where she had struck; but
the water having gained over the mess-deck, and
the tide being down, she took the ground in such
deep water, that the. mess deck was constantly
covered,. which cut off all prospects of recover-
ing her.. He had prudently secured a quantity
of provisions, while sailing up the bay ; and with
these, and every other useful movable, the crew
got safe to land.. It was several weeks before
they knew. of any ship being at the island; and
in the. mean time.they had commenced building
a small.vessel out of the wreck. .

As they had saved but. about two months’
provisions, these were reserved for their passage
to the.main’;. and their present support was. de-
rived from hunting only.. Fortunately, it is on this

maloon.or island that bullocks and horses are

found running wild. Of both these they. shot
many ; but as there were .160 people to. feed,
the difficulty.of taking a sufficient number, owing
to their fleetness, caused so scanty a supply, that

datterly the crew was reduced to feed on the sea

ae pH
_ othe® fishy meats, ex-
nits ® qelicate stomach. They

i¢ wat ens ee "wed from their distressed

f ae A nt er erica sloop, which, in pass-
cr ae * wd went to their assistance.
aes we “ hee ch this sloop was a tender, lay at

ws ip © + hat vont, and I, at the same time, lay
west point assel ot Port Egmont. The French
ee not knowing that any other vessel
it he islands, sent an officer in the sloop to
at West Point, to treat with the captain

ihe i ip
- a passage in his vessel to the main. The
pop, on her way, passed through, and anchored
in Port Egmont, and the master, who was the
chief mate of the ship, came on board, but did
not mention the wreck, or that he had a French
officer along with him: on the contrary, he cun-
ningly prevented this officer from calling upon
me, evidently for the purpose of avoiding com-
petition in getting the passage-freight of these
unfortunate people. A few days afterwards I
moved the Jane up to West Point harbour,
where the General Knox lay, and soon learnt
the particulars of the stranded ship. A schooner,
also attached to the General Knox, arriving from
the wreck, brought the news of a patriot ship,
and a South seaman, homeward bound, having
arrived at Port Louis; and as secrecy could no
longer be preserved, and the schooner was to

CORVETTE L’URANIE. 99.

return to Port Louis, I immediately procured a
passage for the purpose of purchasing provisions
from the homeward-bound whaler. On my ar-
rival at Port Louis, I found the two ships at an-
chor ; the patriot ship was named the Mercury ;
the whaler, the Sir Andrew Hammond, com-
manded by Captain W. Hales — with this gen-
tleman I took up my quarters. I was soon in-
formed that the French commodore had nego-
ciated a passage with the captain of the Mer-
cury to take them to Buenos Ayres. What the
sum was I never learned; but Captain Orne, of
the’ American ship, had for himself named
20,000 dollars, a large sum from people in dis-
tress. I do.not, however, suspect Captain Orne
of a want of sympathy in the sufferings of others, -
for I respect him much for many virtues he pos-
sesses, and rather attribute his apparent extor-
tion to an idea of the ability of the owners to be
liberal.

As the Commodore was now informed of my
vessel being in the islands, in order to remove
any impression he might have received of my
indifference as to his situation, in not having
appeared in the competition for his relief, I
addressed a letter to him, explaining how very
lately I had come to the knowledge of his situ-
ation, and how much I I regretted not t having had

98 ' LOSS OF THE

elephant, penguins, and other fishy meats, ex-
tremely offensive to a delicate stomach. They
were at length relieved from their distressed
‘situation by an American sloop, which, in pass-
ing, saw them, and went to their assistance.
The ship to which this sloop was a tender, lay at
West Point harbour, and I, at the same time, lay
with my vessel at Port Egmont. The French
commodore not knowing that any other vessel
was in the islands, sent an officer in the sloop to
the ship at West Point, to treat with the captain
for a passage in his vessel to the main. The
sloop, on her way, passed through, and anchored
in Port Egmont, and the master, who was the
chief mate of the ship, came on board, but did
not mention the wreck, or that he had a French
officer along with him: onthe contrary, he cun-
ningly prevented this officer from calling upon.
me, evidently for the purpose of avoiding com-
petition in getting the passage-freight of these
unfortunate people. A few days afterwards I
moved the Jane up to West Point harbour,
where the General Knox lay, and soon learnt
the particulars of the stranded ship. A schooner,
also attached to the General Knox, arriving from
the wreck, brought the news of a patriot ship,
and a South seaman, homeward bound, having
arrived at Port Louis; and as secrecy could no
longer be preserved, and the schooner was to

CORVETTE L’URANIE. 99.

return to Port Louis, I immediately procured a
passage for the purpose of purchasing provisions
from the homeward-bound whaler. On my ar-
rival at Port Louis, I found the two ships at an-
chor ; the patriot ship was named the Mercury ;
the whaler, the Sir Andrew Hammond, com-
manded by Captain W. Hales — with this gen-
tleman I took up my quarters. I was soon in-
formed that the French commodore had nego-
ciated a passage with the captain of the Mer-
cury to take them to Buenos Ayres. What the
sum was I never learned ; but Captain Orne, of
the’ American ship, had for himself named
20,000 dollars, a large sum from people in dis-
tress. I do.not, however, suspect Captain Orne
of a: want of sympathy in the sufferings of others, -
for I respect him much for many virtues he pos-_
sesses, and rather attribute his apparent extor-

tion to an idea of the ability of the owners to be

liberal. ’

. AS the Commodore was now informed of my
vessel being in the islands, in order to remove
any impression he might have received of my
indifference as to his situation, in not having
appeared in the competition for his relief, I
addressed a letter to him, explaining how very
lately I had come to the knowledge of his situ--
ation, and how much I regretted not having had

“H 2 :

100 LOSS OF THE

it in my power to offer my. services much ear-
lier. He sent me the following answer, which I
annex, in order to show that my backwardness
arose, not from inattention, but from ignorance
of his misfortune : — :

“© Malouines Islands, 24th April, 1820.

«¢ Sir,

‘* The obliging, but unfortunately t too late
offer, which you vouchsafed to make me, by
your letter of this day, causes me to regret, most
sensibly, the not having had sooner an under-
standing with you. I would have desired above
all things to have negociated with the captain of
an English vessel, where my situation required
that attention to which others, less friends of
loyalty and science, could not be sensible. I
wish not to know why you have been but so
lately informed of the disaster which befell the.
corvette l’Uranie ; probably, ‘Sir, you may dis-
cover, without much difficulty, what sordid ava-
rice could devise to keep you in this ignorance.
In short, Sir, Iam on the point of sailing, and.
it is proper that I should follow the course which.
fortune hasbeen pleased to mark out. '

‘¢ T wish, Sir, that you may realise every expect-.
ation that.you have formed, and procure. those.
advantages which you should of right attain.
Accept, I beg of you, with all devotion, those —

CORVETTE L’URANIE. 101

assurances: of distinguished consideration, with
which I have the honour to be,
ss Sir, |
‘«‘ Your very humble
‘¢ And very obliged Servant,
(Signed) L. pe FreyceEner.”

I afterwards had a conversation with Captain
_Freycenet, in his state-room, and from his con-
versation, which was in English, I perceived
that he was much affected by his late misfortunes;
his health, no doubt, had been impaired by the
inconveniences with which he had to struggle,
and the aggravation of having been cast on shore _—
after a long and fatiguing voyage ; but he enjoyed
the sympathising consolation of his lady, who was
young and very agreeable. I dined in company
with them, and the extreme vivacity of Madame
F. seemed well to accord with’ the character of
the French fair: it was: reported, that in the
‘midst of . the greatest danger and confusion, she
retained a most surprising firmness and com-
posure of mind ; resembling in this, according to
_ all-accounts, the unexampled fortitude of many
French ladies during that murderous period of
the French Revolution, when their dearest friends |
and relations were torn from them by merciless

-.. assassins,

. The Commodore generously presented .me
H 3.

102 , FALKLAND ISLANDS

with a small vessel which he had made here frons
the ship’s launch, with a bill of gift. Captam
Hales supplied them with bread, and several
other articles they required, for which, however,
the purser wished to pay him with the old stores
of the wreck; but le warmly refused any re-
compence, and wrote the commander a letter,
stating, that he would consider his acceptance
of such an offer to be an act of meanness, and
observing that his owners, he was sure, would
highly approve of any assistance he might ren-
der, without exacting payment.

At length, final and honourable arrangements
were made, and Commodore Freycenet sailed
with his officers and men to the river Plate,
where they arrived in safety.

To return to our remarks on these islands.

The settlers, when they abandoned the eastern
island, left behind them several horses and
horned cattle, which have increased so much that
on going a few miles into the country droves of
both animals may be seen. I have taken seve-
ral of the bullocks by shooting them. They are
generally ferocious, and will attack a single per-
' son; and thus those who hunt them are enabled
to get within pistol-shot of them by the follow-
ing stratagem: four or five men advance in a
line upon the animal, and by appearing only as
one’person, it stands ready to attack, till within

CLAIMED BY BUENOS AYRES. 108

100 yards, ‘when the hunters spread themselves,
and fire, endeavouring to shoot the bullock either
in the head or in the fore-shoulder. The horses
will also attack a single person, and their mode
of doing so, is by forming a circle round him,
and prancing upon: him; but by means of a
titusket they may be readily dispersed.

Port St. Salvador is situated about half way on
the northern side of the eastern main island ; but
as it is difficult of access, I shall not particularise
nor recommend it as a place of anchorage for
strangers. |

While lying in this port in 1820, I had a letter
brought me from the commander ofa patriot
national frigate of 80 guns, then at anchor ‘in
Port Louis; and to convey an idea of the kind of
claim made by the South Americans to these
islands, I shall subjoin his letter, with some ac-

count of his proceedings : — |

National Frigate Heroind at Port Soledad,
| “ November 2. 1820. |
Oy “ Sir, ; . . |

_ &.] have the honour to inform you of the cir-
cumstance of my arrival at: this port, commis-
sioned by the supreme government of the United ~
Provinces of South America to. take possession
of these islands in the name of the. country to
which they naturally appertain.

‘‘ In the performance of this duty, it is my

H 4

104 - FALKLAND ISLANDS

desire to act towards all friendly flags with -the
most distinguished justice and politeness.

‘‘ A principal object is to prevent the wanton
destruction of the sources of supply to those
whose necessities compel or invite them to visit
the islands, and to aid’ and assist such as require
it to obtain a supply with the least trouble and
expense.

-« As your views do not enter into contraven-
tion or competition with these orders, and as. I
think mutual advantage may result from a per-
sonal interview, I invite you to pay me a visit: on
board my ship, where I shall be happy to accom-
modate you during your pleasure.

‘“‘ T would also beg you, so far as comes within
your sphere, to communicate this information to
other British subjects ‘in this vicinity. I have
the honour to be, Lo.

‘¢ Sir,
‘¢ Your most obedient humble Servant,
‘¢ (Signed) JEWITT,

“ Colonel of the marine of the United Pro-
vinces of South America, and commander
of the frigate Heroind.” ‘

The following morning I walked over a dis-
tance of '7 or 8 miles to Port Louis, where the
frigate lay ; and finding a boat on shore, ob-
tained a passage on board. Captain Jewitt re-

CLAIMED BY BUENOS A¥RES. 105

ceived me with great politeness,’ and notwith-
standing the mutilated and worn out state of’ his
ship and crew, he assumed an-air of power and
authority beyond my expectation. He told me
his business was to take. possession of the Falk-
land Islands for. his government, and that every
thing necessary for an establishment would: be
procured from Buenos Ayres so soon as-he could
purchase a cutter, of which there were several
among the islands. It evidently appeared, how-
ever, that his principal business was to refresh his
crew ; for never, since the time of Lord Anson,
perhaps, had an instance occurred where the
scurvy had been so destructive to a ship’s com-
pany. Though they had been: at sea about
eight. months only, and had frequently during
that time been supplied with vegetables from the
Cape de Verds, this dreadful disease was making
rapid progress among those unfortunate . people...
The patient was seized first about the knees, and
the malady rapidly rising to the stomach, caused
dissolution in 36 or 40 hours. During the first days
of their arrival here, they died to the number of
5 or 6 ina day. . I was glad to give any inform-
ation in regard to the country, which might be the
means of assisting in the recovery of these poor
men ; arid by the use of fish, wild fowl, and indi-
genous and other vegetables, I had the pleasure of
seeing them soon become convalescent. The sick

106 MORTALITY FROM SCURVY.

were landed at the ruins of the town of St. Louis ;
and though there were no roofs to the houses,
they found an immense oven in which they were
well sheltered from the weather. ‘The comple-
ment of men, when the ship sailed from Buenos
Ayres eight months before, was 200: they had
not now more than 30 seamen and 40 soldiers fit
to do duty ; 50 had been put on board a prize,
so that about 80 were either sick or had died of
the scurvy.

- Understanding that I could conduct his ship
up the sound, for he was then 6 miles below the
proper anchorage, the commander begged the
favour of me to mové her: his extreme politeness
required some return: but in addition to that
consideration, I saw he was much in want of
men, and conceived it possible that if I were
unaccommodating, he might entice my crew, or
perhaps force them into his service,—lI therefore
determined to make him my friend by exchang-
ing civilities.

I chose the time for proceeding up the sound,
and the anchors were weighed, but with diffi-
culty, the officers being obliged to assist at the
capstan. I at length brought the frigate to a safe
anchorage off the ruins of St. Louis. The day
being too far spent to reach my own ship before
dark, Captain Jewitt invited me to remain on
board during the night. I accepted his invita-

NARRATIVE OF A MUTINY. 107

tion; and during the course of the evening he
gave me an account of a mutiny which had hap-
pened about three months before, when they
were a few degrees to the north of the equator. |
. The’ circumstances which I considered inter-
esting he related nearly as follows: —The neces-
sity for having an effective crew, and the impos-
sibility of getting men all of good characters,
had induced him to take some out of the com-
mon prison. Among these was a man who had
attempted the capture of a small vessel with
specie on board, lying at anchor at the river
Plata; but the night being dark, he had, fortu-
nately for the owner of the money, mistaken the
vessel, and got on board a national schooner,
where he was seized and committed to gaol.
Captain Jewitt saw that this man was a bold,
fearless. character, but persuaded himself, that,
under judicious direction, he might be made use-
ful ; and he therefore determined to take him as a
petty officer, though the governor remonstrated
with him on the subject, and impressed on his
mind that the prisoner was a person of the most
abandoned principles. Captain Jewitt replied,
he would take the risk ; and should he be guilty
of mutiny, he would shoot him. The governor’s
anticipation turned out to be correct, as will ap-
pear in the sequel. They had been at sea some
time without any dissatisfaction appearing among

108 NARRATIVE OF A MUTINY.

the crew: every indulgence the service would
allow of was granted to them; and the officer
taken from prison the captain had promoted from
time to time till now he held the rank of lieu-
tenant. From the day of his obtaining this
promotion, the commencement of the mutiny
might be dated. This villain, by being in closer
intercourse with the officers, contaminated the
minds of some, and thus propagated a spirit of
insubordination among the seamen; so that a
plan for the execution of the most horrid mur-
‘der was formed, which was prevented by a very
fortuitous circumstance.

On the night of the 19th of August, Captain
Jewitt was lying in his cot ruminating on the
variety of. characters he had on board, when his
mind became, as it were, providentially excited to
the necessity of being vigilant in observing the
conduct of his crew. He immediately got up, put
on a dark-coloured cloak, and, unobserved, reach-
ed the fore part of the gun-deck on the larboard
side. Here the lights had been extinguished
for the purpose of concealing the proceedings of
the conspirators : — from the opposite side he
overheard a party closely engaged in mutinous
communications.. He was thunderstruck at dis-
covering the cruel and inhuman intentions. of
these wretches; but when he understood that
at midnight, .it- being then 40 minutes past 11,

NARRATIVE OF A MUTINY. 109:

the scene of murder was:to commence, .and that
he was to be the first victim of their barbarity,
by stabbing him in his cot, he waited to hear no
more, but instantly hurried back without being:
perceived. He immediately sent for the cap-.
tain of the troops, informed him of the state of
the ship, and desired him to have the soldiers
under arms as.speedily as possible. As soon as
they were reported ready, he ordered two of the
officers, whom he suspected, to be put in con-
finement, and, at the same time, called the sea-
men on deck. The soldiers were drawn up on
the quarter-deck, and all the officers, in whom
he could place confidence, were under arms.

At so sudden a discovery of. their horrid.
designs, and the vigilant appearance of the cap-
tain’s party, the mutineers became panic-struck.
They, however, came aft, and Captain J . ace
cused them of their crime, desiring those who.
were not implicated immediately to cross over to
the starboard side. A murmuring took place, as.
if they intended to. oppose; but distrusting one
another, they tacitly suffered the ringleaders. to
be seized and secured in irons. Thus, by the.
mere accident of Captain Jewitt’s having gone.
forward, at that critical moment, and overhearing
their villanous plot, a dreadful course of murder .
was prevented. Subordination having been re-.
stored, he made the necessary arrangements for.

110 NARRATIVE OF A MUTINY.

holding courts-martial, according to the forms
established by the patriots of Buenos Ayres, by
which the commander of a ship of war is in-
vested with the power of life and death. The
evidence which was here adduced implicated so
many unsuspected persons, that he found mercy
incompatible with the safety of the ship, and the
_lives of the innocent. It appeared that their
intention was to destroy all those who might be
found inimical to their principal design, which
was to hoist black colours, and scour the seas as
pirates, making murder their principal means of
safety.

At length, after the most deliberate examin- .
ation of the evidence, by himself and the officers
of the ship, Captain Jewitt was under the dis-
tressing necessity of pronouncing sentence of
death on two officers and two seamen. One of
the officers was the person he had taken out of
prison, and had promoted. On the day appointed
for execution, a stage was erected over the star-
board cat-head, and these four unfortunate men
met their death by being shot. I much lamented,
said Captain Jewitt, that so severe an example
was necessary, and had I been a disinterested
spectator, I certainly would have called aloud
for their pardon ; but my peculiar situation would
not allow the feelings of compassion to influence
me. Here he finished his narration ; and, pre-

NARRATIVE OF A MUTINY. ill

sently, the death of his first lieutenant was ‘re-
ported, to which he replied, with great compo-
sure, being familiar with death in every form,
‘¢ Very well: secure his effects.” This deceased
officer, he told me, was passively concerned in
the mutiny; but he spared him from trial on
account of his sickness.

Captain Jewitt, with great politeness ordered
a cot to be slung for me on the larboard side
of his sleeping cabin; and when we retired, I
remarked that he slept in his trowsers, with a
dirk belted round him, and a pair of pistols over
his, head. As I was not provided with any such -
weapons of defence, .I had only to trust for
safety to a strict observance of neutrality ;..but
the ship remained in peace, and I slept undis-
turbed.

In a few days, he took formal possession of
these islands for the ‘patriot government of
Buenos Ayres, read a declaration under their
colours, planted on a port in ruins, and fired a
salute of twenty-one guns. On this occasion
the officers were all in full uniform, being ex-
actly that of our navy, which but ill accorded
with the dilapidated state of the ship; but he
was wise enough to calculate the effect of such
parade, upon the minds of the masters of ships
who were in the islands, and as he had laid |
claim to the wreck of the French ship be-

112 FALKLAND ISLANDS.

fore mentioned, to the entire exclusion of several
vessels which had arrived, bound to New Shetland,
he was aware that an authoritative appearance
was necessary. In fact, he struck such a terror on
the minds of some ship-masters, lest they should
be captured or robbed, that one of'them proposed
taking up arms against him; but on my point-
ing out to him how groundless were his fears,
and introducing him to Captain Jewitt, he con-
fessed his mistake, and his fears subsided. —On
the 20th of November I sailed from Port Louis,
and left Captain Jewitt completing . his repairs.
I have since learned that he took the ship to the
river Plata, and that-he is now in the Brazilian
service. |

113

CHAP. V.

SAIL FROM THE FALKLANDS: VOYAGE, ICE ISLANDS, CUR-
RENTS. — DIFFICULT NAVIGATION.-—— STORM AND DAN-
GERS. — DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE ICE IN THE NORTH-
ERN AND SOUTHERN HEMISPHERES. — SPERM WHALE
SEEN. — SOUTH SHETLANDS.

Havine said as much as the field of my observ-
ation allows me, in the description of theseislands,
and of the incidents which have of late years
taken place in their vicinity, I shall now return
to our having sailed from the Falklands on the
7th of October, bound to South Shetland.

At 6 P. M. we had obtained an offing, and
Rodney’s Bluff bore N.E. distance about seven
leagues. The wind continued blowing fresh
from the north, with haze till the morning of
the 11th, when it shifted suddenly into the S.W.
and brought clear weather. Our latitude at
noon by observation was 57° 27’, and longitude
by chronometers 65° by D.R. 66° 1’; in the after-
noon the wind shifted to S.S.E., and we put
about. to the S.W.

At day-light of the 12th, the wind had shifted
into the S. W. and blew a strong gale: at day-
light of the 13th, the gale moderated, leaving a

.

114 VOYAGE: ICE ISLANDS.

heavy swell from the westward; and at noon
we saw an ice-berg in the S.'W.

On the 14th, the wind was westerly ; and our
latitude at noon was 58° 6’, longitude by chro-
nometers 62° 46’, and by account 65° 24’: our
consort kept her station, and we occasionally
communicated.

- On the 15th, the wind was easterly, and blew
lightly at noon. We were in latitude by observ-
ation 59° 7’, by D. R. 59° 16’, and longitude by
chronometers was 63° 28’, and byaccount 66° 42’.
At eight A.M., of the 16th, we passed an ice
island, which we estimated to be about two
miles in length, and, during the night, we
passed seven others. I was much surprised ‘at
falling in with these, as in my two former pass
sages to Shetland we had not seen one. At
noon the weather was hazy, and in the after-
noon, with the wind northerly, a thick fog set
in. At 3" 30’ P.M. we were astonished to find
ourselves upon the edge of field-ice, and close
to a large ice island. We had barely room. to
avoid it, the cutter hauling one way, and the
brig the opposite, by which means we escaped
the danger. Our latitude was now 61° 21’, and
longitude by chronometers 64° 15; hence, the
outer edge of the ice was ninety-five miles from
the land. As I thought it might possibly be
only a patch, we ran along the edge to the

ICE CURRENT. 113

E.N.E. in search of.an ‘opening ;. but after.run-
ning twenty miles, and finding the ice every
where quite compact, at.10 P.M. we hauled c off
to the N.N.W.: :

- At day-light of the 17th, we. ‘sailed to the
southward, and. in. making the ice again, we dis:
covered an: opening, into which we entered.: We
passect through several heavy patches, and found
our latitude .at noon 61° 49’, and longitude by:

chronometers 61° 53, by. D.R. 66° 38’, produce»
ing a difference or error.in reckoning. of: 165
miles:in ten days; which, after allowing one: —
fourth for error, gives an..easterly current of
half a mile per hour during the time specified’:
but. it had not run equally. As.the. current: was
evidently ..setting ‘strong to the eastward,.. I
thought that the western edge of: the ice: might
not be far from the part: we first ‘fell in, with)
as at that time it was.so foggy that: we could not
see farther than a quarter of: a mile.:: We::'aos
eordingly made the appropriate signal ta the
Beaufoy, and plied the vessels to the westward..

During the 18th and. 19th, we had strong and
moderate breezes, alternately, from:the westward.
In.. the morning of the 20th the wind. turned
into the S.W., and:: blew: a fresh: gale, which
brought us under close-reefed topsails ;. we con»
tmued to pass along. the edge of the ice, but
could find no. opening.

i 2

116 VOYAGE. .

On the 21st.the wind was moderate, and-ob-
serving the. ice to have slackened considerably, : I
‘was hopeful that the last strong wind from the
south-west had driven it from the land, leaving
clear water, which could we attain, I judged we
might reach an anchorage. I was mistaken in
my conjecture, for we had not penetrated far
when we found the ice too heavy for our weak
barks to displace, and we were obliged to use
our endeavour to return to clear water again.
At. noon: we saw. James Island, . the. western
island of the group bearing S. by E. by which
with the difference of latitude, the distance ‘was
estimated to be '70 miles. ‘The weather was-re-
markably clear, and .the island being covered
with snow, appeared like a white cloud in the
horizon, with some dark streaks running verti-
cally where the snow had been melted. |

Through the night of the 21st, not being able
to find a passage to clear water, -we were under .
the necessity of tacking about in a pool till day-
light. ‘The extent of this pool was about a mile
and a half, which as the wind was strong and the
night very: dark, we found:small enough. The
ice about us was what is called packed, z.-e.
broken into large masses in contact with each
other; and some pieces were so heavy. as ‘to -
make our running against. them as dangerous as
striking upon a rock. We-frequently, had it close

DIFFICULTIES. 17

_on board before we could perceive it, so that,
in:fact, it would have been. safer to have entered
the ice the preceding evening, and have lain in
it, but that I was afraid its rolling motion would
break away our guard-boards. At day-light we
‘coasted the: pool foran opening; without success,
and we had only the choice of remaining, or of
forcing a passage, which latter we immediately
set about, under all sail, and by keeping the
vessels’ heads to the northward, in the afternoon
we reached clear water.

At noon our latitude by observation was
61° 30’, and. longitude by chronometers 61° 7’.
By our having.made easting since noon of the
day before, notwithstanding we had made 20
miles of westing by the log, it appeared that
while lying in the pool during the night, we had
been carried with the ice rapidly to the eastward.
I was not sorry at finding this to be the case, as
it afforded the prospect of reaching an anchorage
to the westward of the ice. ‘The wind continued .
westward, and we searched the ice for an open-
ing, occasionally passing through extensive heavy
patches. :

In the morning of the 26th the wind shifted
to north, and the weather became foggy. We.
had now got to the westward of the main ice,
and at 8.A.M. the fog clearing away, we saw
James, Island, bearing E. by S. 4S. distant 12

13

118 DIFFICULTIES.

Ieagues.. We immediately hauled towards an
opening in the western part of the group which
J had named Boyd Straits, in honour of Captain
David Boyd, of the Royal Navy. We soon,
however, found ourselves impeded by heavy
compact ice, - and the wind freshened from
N..W. .to such a degree as to oblige us to take
in the. foretop-sail, and it was with difficulty. we
obtained an offing.

Qn the 27th the winds were light, and the
weather foggy, and as we had much heavy ice
around, with a great westerly swell, our situation
was hazardgus. At midnight the wind freslen-
ed to a gale at west, and we lay to with the
ship’ s head to the N.N.W. In this drift we fell
in with many ice islands, some of which, by the
heaviness of the sea around us, were rolling with
the noise of an earthquake.

_ At 8 in the morning of the 28th, the wind
shifted. suddenly into the S. W., and increased to
a.complete hurricane... I was glad to see the
Beaufoy was prepared for the worst, and by the
advantage which a cutter possesses over a square-
rigged vessel, in having fore and aft sails, with
comparative little bulk aloft, she seemed to lie
much easier than we did. Our main topsail was
storm-reefed, which requiring the sheets to be
eased off several feet, reduced the sail to the size of
a mere napkin. The cold was intense, and in con-

STORM. | 119

sequence of the wind having shifted, the sea rang:
ed on board oh the leeside, sweeping every thing

before it. A whale-boat, and every thing move
able was washed off deck, and an accumulated
mass of ice was ultimately left in their place.
To this latter circumstance, alarming as it ap-
peared at the time, may perhaps be attributed,
in some measure, our preservation, as our vessel
was no doubt greatly assisted by this binding of
ice to withstand the shocks of an irregularly
violent sea. ‘This I concluded to arise from the
cohesive nature of ice, which by almost envelop-
ang the vessel, prevented the fastenings from
being distressed. ‘The gale continued with great
violence from the-S.W. by S., and by midnight
the sea had become more regular. So much ice
had formed in the head, and on the fore-castle,
that the vessel rose to the sea but sluggishly, and
the fear of falling in with ice, kept us constantly
on the alarm. In still water, little, or no ice can
be formed upon the hull; but as it was with us
in this instance, there was no part six feet above
the deck where the sea water did not reach, and
which had not a quantity of ice upon it.

The rudder was frozen fast in the trunk, and
but for the little sail we had aloft, which kept
the vessel steady, and fortunately was new, we
should in all probability soon have been a wreck.
The Beaufoy had not been seen for several

I 4

120 EFFECTS OF THE GALE AND COLD.

hours; and indeed we could have rendered no
assistance one to another, although we had been
together, and the occasion, ever so distressing.
We had only therefore to wait with patience for
the approach of day-light, and to confide in a
merciful Providence for our preservation.

On the morning of the 29th, the gale mo-
derated, and we were rejoiced to see from the °
‘mast-head, the Beaufoy in the S.S.W. Many
of our crew were hurt in the early part of the
gale, by being thrown down, and nearly all of
them were frost-bitten. They had been above
a twelvemonth from home, and consequently
their clothes were nearly worn out. Several of
them had not a second pair of stockings or a
shirt to change with ; and I had parted with every
rag I could spare to remedy these inconveni-
ences. Blankets were cut up to make stockings,
and the pump leather had been used to mend
shoes. I never, during my experience at sea,
have seen an equal degree of patience and firm-
ness as was exhibited by these seamen. No das-
tardly request to reach a better climate was ever
hinted at, but they continued in the strictest
obedience and determination to make light of
difficulties,

In the course of the forenoon we closed with
the Beaufoy, and I was glad to hear that they
had suffered no particular damage; the decks

STRIKE AGAINST AN ICE ISLAND. 121

Ahad been full of water, but she had shipped
much less than the brig had done. At noon,
James Island bore 8S. 4 E., distant about sixty
miles. |
Owing to not having found ice here in any
considerable quantity, on either of my two former
voyages, I was led to hope that it would speedily
clear away ; and was, therefore, determined not
to relinquish an object, when, perhaps, we were
on the point of attaining it. |
We retained an offing, in order to. repair da- |
mages, sustained in the late hurricane, and to
clear the ship of ice; which, however, we could
not effectually.do, as the wind continued at
south-south-west, producing keen frost, and; on
the 30th, we. had a fresh gale. It was the Ist
of November before we stood in again for the
edge of the ice; and, though I fully expected
that the heavy southerly winds had driven ‘it
from the shore, I soon. had the mortifying
prospect of finding it as compact as before,
though the edge had wasted so that we’ could
approach several miles nearer land.
_ . We continued about this situation till the 5th,
in the morning, when we were roused by strik-
ing against a small island of ice. Many of these
‘were strewed around us, and we had been sail-
ing among them, during the night, without dif-
ficulty ; but on. my going below for a few mi-

122 ICE.

nutes, the man at the helm, in passing one,
became confused, or misunderstood the direc-
tions of the officer.of the deck, and put the
helm the wrong way, by which the ship struck
her larboard bow against the mass, with so much
violence, as to throw the people out of’ their
cabins. I was on deck in an instant, and directed
the carpenter to sound the pump well; and in
not more than two minutes after striking, he
reported three feet waterin the hold. I ordered
him to sound a second time, while 1 prepared
. to make a signal to the Beaufoy, and to ply the
pumps. Before, however, the signal could be
made, he confessed that he had been mistaken
in his first soundings, by the line having been
wet, and that we had only the usual quantity
of water. ‘The carpenter insisted on the vessel
having struck the ice somewhere forward below
water; but as there was no additional leakage,
I passed the event into the list of defects, and
gave it no farther consideration. ‘The effects of
this blow afterwards appeared to have been of
serious concern, for, on docking the vessel in
London, a plank was found driven between two
timbers in the larboard bilge.

~ On the 7th, we attained within the distance
of eight leagues of James Island, and here found
the ice so heavy and compact, as far to the
southward as the eye could reach, that we were

VOYAGE CONTINUED. 123

obliged to stand again to the northward. Having,
in the course of our endeavours to obtain a
passage through the ice, struck against several
masses with great violence, I took advantage of
this comparatively fine day to lower the boat,
and examine the extent of the damage we had
sustained. We found the bends considerably
injured, and the outer part of the stem broken.
The swell ‘of the sea did not permit us to do
any thing by way of repairing at this time,
and,' as we made but little more than the usual
quantity of water, we felt no alarm at our
situation.

Towards evening, the wind freshened from
the N.E., and put the’ outer part of the ice in
motion towards the west; we, therefore, stood
to the N.N.W. under ‘easy sail, to prevent our
being taken by it. — ,

During the 8th and 9th, we made various
efforts to open a passage to the land, but without
success.

At 8 A.M. of the 10th, James Island bore
S. 4 E. distant about 40 miles. At 1°30’ P. M.
I took eleven. sights of distance between the sun
and moon, and then deduced the longitude of |
the east end of James Island to be 62° 16’.. On
the 11th, ‘as the ice appeared somewhat thinner
towards the E.S.E., I thought it possible that
we might reach the anchorage of New Plymouth

124 ICE ISLANDS.

Harbour ; and we accordingly made the attempt,
but without success, as we had not penetrated
more than seven or eight miles before both vessels
became immoveable. ‘The cutter having come
up among the loose ice we had displaced, ranged
alongside. We had now forty ice islands around
us, and most of them were in motion from under
currents, As it was as much out of our power
to return as to go forward, we furled the sails.
My attention was principally directed to the
movements of these masses, as some of them
were going westerly to: windward, and the
packed ice in which we were beset had an
easterly motion. ‘The wind was strong from the
S.W. during the night, but it made no apparent
change in the disposition of the ice. In the
morning of the 12th we had closed with a large
ice island, and in spite of all our endeavours to
avoid it, we continued approaching.

At 10 o’clock, it was within two ships’ length,
and, from its peculiar shape, threatened to over-
whelm us; for the upper part of the side nearest
to us, which was about 180 feet high, projected
so much as would have admitted the brig’s
masts coming in contact with it underneath, and
this overhanging part was cracked from the top
down to the water-line. From both vessels
being unavoidably together, both were likely
to suffer by the same accident. All our attempts

DANGEROUS SITUATION. 125

to heave the vessels out. of the course of this
danger were in vain, but they had the good
effect of occupying the crews, and thus with-
drawing their attention from their perilous situa-
tion. Within half an hour, I had the appalling
sight of the overhanging mass immediately over
our quarter-deck; with the fearful sensation -
that, if our masts came in contact with it, the
projecting part would fall upon us, and sink both
vessels, Our escape was caused solely by our
having a large floe piece of ice between us and
the ice island, which prevented our masts from
touching it. The packed ice separated to each
side, and we passed round the north corner. ‘The
rolling of this island in its passage had produced
a.slackness in the other ice, of which I. was
determined to take advantage for returning, and
so cast off the cutter. We made all:possible sail,
with the wind at S.W.; and continued making
progress :in a N.E. direction till the evening,
when. both vessels became again unmoveabie.
The cutter: was now about one mile astern, and,
indeed, I saw that it was necessary for our safety
to be at a short distance from each: other, that
we might not both be. subject to the same acci-
dent, as would: have been:the case when. under
the ice. island before mentioned. |

.:Qn: the ..13th, the wind was light from the
W.N.W., and we: were: consequently unable to

126 DANGEROUS NAVIGATION.

make any way; but on the morning of the 14th;
it freshened, and for our safety we made all sail
to the northward.

At 4 A.M., we saw rocks astern bearing
S.S.E. distant about ten miles, which we judged
to be about Cape Sheriff. In the aftertioon we
were set into ice.of the most dangerous descrip-
tion. Many pieces which appeared to be the
bottoms of ice islands were about from 80 to
100 feet in superficial extent; and as they were
10 feet above water, they must have been at
least 40 feet in depth, as from: the specific:gras
vity of such sort of blue and solid ice, we
judged that about.30 feet must be under water: _
The rolling motion of several of these pieces
was so great, that had one of them taken the
side of the ship fairly in its descent, her destruc-
tion must have been inevitable. |

Among them there were narrow openings,
through which we endeavoured to navigate ; but
in passing one piece, it struck us, though only
with a corner, on the starboard side, and tore
down our bulwarks and. main-guard board. We
repaired the wreck, and passed through two or
three miles of this kind of ice. As there were
occasionally small ponds, in which the vessel ac-.
quired considerable velocity, the evolutions we
had to perform kept our men constantly at the
braces to back and fill the sails. About 5 P.M.

DAMAGES AND REPAIRS. 197

we had reached 2 pool about one mile in diameter,
though with many heavy pieces of ice floating in
it. The Beaufoy had been. unavoidably . sent
four or five miles to the westward of us, and as
we saw her. distinctly, I determined to wait in
this pool till she should reach us. '

: During the 15th, the water being smooth here, :
I further examined the. vessel’s. bows and found
three of the binds broken; and the stem much
damaged as before mentioned. .We made re-
pairs by nailing lead and plank over tarred
canvass on the holes and cracks which, though
they did not materially strengthen the vessel,
prevented leakage in the meantime.. In the
evening, having observed the cutter to be fast
approaching, we entered the nearest northern
patch of ice, and at half past four. of’ the
morning of the 16th we reached clear water, and .
hove to under the edge of' the ice for the arrival
of the Beaufoy. :

. Twas much rejoiced at having one vessel out
| of the ice, considering .all dangers in an open.
sea as of no moment compared with those we
were subject to in such weak vessels, having only
two and a half inch plank in the bottom, among
large rolling masses of ice.

_ As I have been in the Greenland seas, and am-
well acquainted with the nature and danger of
that navigation, [ may remark that sailing among

128 NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN ICES.

ice in these southern latitudes is attended with
much greater risk. This is occasioned by a
heavy westerly swell which keeps the ice in
motion, and seldom entirely subsides. The vast
expanse of ocean to the westward of Shetland
acted upon by winds prevailing between S.W.
and N.W. is the cause of this almost constant
swell, and as the heaviest gales come from
between these points, it is sometimes of a
mountainous description.

At two.in the afternoon, the Beaufoy. having
joined company, we.stood to the westward, and
at 4 o’clock we saw a sperm whale, which con-
firms Mr. Smith’s report of such sort of whales
being found on this coast, as stated by him in his
account of South Shetland.

The weather being now more settled, we
lowered our boats, and set out in pursuit of
the whale, but did not succeed. It was supposed
that the fish having seen the copper of the
vessel, had become what is technically called
galled, and disappeared.

At 9 P.M. on the 16th, James Island bore
S.E. by E. distant 16 or 17 miles, but as I found
the ice still heavy and compact, I saw no pros-
pect of obtaining anchorage in time for procur-
ing sea elephants, and therefore communicated
with the Beaufoy, and with the wind at N.N.E.

14

THE SOUTH SHETLANDS. 129

we stood to the N.W. on our passage to Cape
Horn.

As the South Shetlands are not yet generally
known, and I have had an opportunity of ascer-
taining some particulars in regard to them during
three voyages, a short account may here be useful
for general information ; and for the convenience
of navigators, I have annexeda chart, constructed’
from observations made during my survey of
these islands.

The discovery of this archipelago, as already
mentioned, was made by Mr. William Smith,
commander of the brig William, on a passage
from Monte Video to Valparaiso in 1819, as
is stated in the following extract from that ves-
sel's-log book. .

s¢ After taking our departure from Monte
Video, nothing material occurred until I got
into the latitude of Cape Horn, with a fair
wind to go to the westward, and steering S.S.E.
with an intention to make the island again,
and continuing this course for a few days, I, to
my great satisfaction, discovered land. On the
15th October, at 6 p.m., in latitude 62° 30’ S.,
and longitude 60° W., by chronometers, bear-
ing S.E. by E. about. three leagues, hazy wea--
ther, bore up and sailed towards it. At four
miles’ distance sounded in 40 fathoms, fine

K

180 THE SOUTH SHETLANDS.

black sand. Island bearing E. by S.:to S.E.
by E., sounded in 60 fathoms, same bottom. —
Hauled off during the night to the northward.
At daylight stood in for the land again, at three
leagues’ distance from the body of islands.
Sounded again 95 fathoms, fine sand.

‘¢ October 18th. Weather clear and pleasant,
saw the main land bearing S.S.E., distance
from the island about three leagues; having
ran as far as the Cape, we found. the land trend
off to the N.E., coasting to the eastward; I
sounded, found it similar to the former, fine
sand. The point called North Foreland E. by
S.; hauled in for it; got the island to bear
W.N.W. distance half a league; sounded re-
gular from 20 to 35 fathoms, good bottom, ‘sand
and gravel. Finding the weather favourable,
we lowered down the boat, and succeeded in
landing; found it barren and covered with
snow; seals in abundance. The boat having
returned, and being secured, we made sail off
shore the ensuing night. In the morning, al-
tered the course so as to reach the land to the
southward in view. At 11 A. M.. the North
Foreland bore 8.E. by E. five leagues ; the land
then took a south-easterly direction, varying to
the eastward ; weather thick and squally, with
snow.

“‘ T thought proper, having property on board,

THE ‘SOUTH SHETLANDS. 181

and perhaps ‘deviating from the insurance, to
Raul off to the westward on my intended voy-
age. Stormy, variable winds ; made Cape Mil-
lan; could perceive some high land to the west-
ward of the Cape, stretching in a south-west
direction; the weather becoming thick and
squally, made sail to the westward. Having
sailed 150 miles on W.S.W., the weather moder-
ating, saw. another head-land bearing E.N.E.,
distance 10 leagues ; very high; observed, lati-
tude 62° 52’ south, longitude, by chronometers,
63° 40’ west; named this South Cape; found
the land to extend from the Cape in a southerly
direction. Shaped my course for Valparaiso,
where I arrived on the 24th November after a
pissage of 60 days from Monte ‘Video.
(Signed) “ Wa. Suitu.’’*

The northern range of South Shetland islands
lie between latitude 61°-and 68°, and longitude
54° and 63°, and consist:of 12 main islands ‘and
innumerable rocks above water, as shown-in the
accompanying chart. Their extent was first -as-
certained by Mi. Edward Barnéfield, then master
of the frigate Andromache, who was ‘sent ‘out
forthe expxess purpose ‘by Captain Sheriff, com-

‘* Accounts of this discovery were originally made knowa
ta.the British public in the ‘Literary Gaxette. . -
K 2

132 THE SOUTH SHETLANDS.

mander of the vessel, and commodore on the
western coast of America.

Mr. Edward Barnsfield acted with great bold.
ness in obtaining a knowledge of this land; but’
circumstances did not admit of his extending or
pursuing his observations, so as to give a4 par-
ticular account of it. To his valuable remarks,
however, as far as they go, I have added my
own,‘ which corroborate them, together with a
particular delineation of the coast.

The names which he gave the different head-
lands, &c., in obedience to official authority, I
- have-retained ; and, in a more extended survey, I
shave added to some parts names from peculia-
rities of appearance in the land, and to others,
the names of gentlemen of talent and enter-
prise. I began my observations in 1820, being ~
the first vessel fitted out from England which
anchored in these parts ; and have been happy,
since that time, in imparting the knowledge I
possessed to persons who required information
for the safety of their ships and lives of: their
crews. From having done so, I have seen many
of my communications in print, which, how-
ever, I do not regret, though it may detract
from their entire novelty now, when published
by myself.

The appearance which these islands would
assume, were they divested of ice, would be

CHW ART

( of
y hil Ni Mand ’, )

Constructed from observations

MAME MUriNg THREE VOYAGES the Vers
— ASLO 21, 22K LD.
10 THESH ISLAY DS,

Ali KI?

THE SOUTA SHETLANDS. 133°

very different from what they at present exhibit.
In Smith’s Island, an ice-berg.-runs through
from north to south; indeed; almost all of them.
are so interspersed and intersected with. ice-
bergs, that the earthy, or rather rocky, parts of
the country are much smaller in bulk than would.
_ be supposed from a distant view.

_ The highest, and most forbidding in aspect,
is the western island, which, .in 1820, I named
James Island, as I was the first who landed
upon it. The highest part of it I estimated to-
be nearly 2500 feet above the: level of the sea.
The whole island is almost inaccessible, and
constantly covered with snow, excepting some
perpendicular rocks which will not retain it.

None of the islands afford any vegetation,
save -a short straggling grass, which is found -in
very small patches, in places where there hap-.
pens to be a little soil. This, together with a
moss, similar to that which is found in Iceland, —
appears in the middle of January, at which time
the islands are partially clear of snow.

To the eastward of Cape Melville is Bridg-
man’s Island, which is evidently volcanic, as in
passing it in the year 1821, within 200 yards, I
abserved smoke issuing through the fissures of.
the rock, and apparently with much force. The
figure of this island is nearly round; and it is
about. one-eighth of a mile in diameter, and

K 3

13h THE SOUTM SHETLANDS ;

400 feet high, partaking of the form of a sugar-
loaf. There are several good harbours in these-
islands, as may be seen by referring to the
chart. '

The: composition of the rock, which forms ©
the Shetland Islands, appears to: consist of
quartz, with disseminated iron pyrites; and of —
quartz. in prismatic concretions, copper green,
and copper pyrites.

From the. almost total want of vegetation to
subsist upon, there cannot be a single terrestrial
animal in these islands; but af amphibious crea-
tures, there are several. The sea-elephant was
found in vast numbers. Of these, the crews;
under my direction, killed upwards of 2000.
The fur-seals, which appear to be found only in
the South Seas, were still more numerous. Some
sea-leopards have also been seen. As the pe«
culiarities of these animals, and many of their
instinctive habits, may be interesting, I shall
describe them.

The largest is the sea-elephant. ‘The male
has a cartilaginous substance, extending forward
from the nose, five or six inches, somewhat re-
sembling the proboscis of the common elephant,

- and from this circumstance has obtained the

name. |
The largest of these animals which I have
seen were males, not less than twenty-four feet

SEA ELEPHANTS. |, . IS ¢)

long, and fourteen in circumference: . the. fe-
males are generally about one-third less. In
form, they have much the appearance of the |
common seal, with which most people are ac- —
quainted, and, therefore, a particular description
would be superfluous ;. but it may be necessary
-to. mention those habits and peculiarities in
which they differ. .

The males come on shore about the end of
August and beginning of September ; and in this
month, and the first part of October, they are fol-
lowed by the females, which, being.with yeung
since the preceding season, choose the land at
this time for the purpose of parturition and pro-
creation. When the males first arrive, the fat of
three or four of them will make a ton of oil;
but the average of both male and female is
about seven to the ton. As they live, while on
shore, entirely without, food, by the middle of
December they have become very lean; and
their young being at this age able to take the
water, the whole of the breeding herd leave the
shores.

A second herd come up about the middle of
January, for the purpose of renewing their coat
of hair; in March, a herd of full-grown males
come up, for the same purpose; and, by the
end of April, every kind of them has returned
to the sea. | :

K 4

486 THE SOUTH SHETLANDS ;

The circumstance of these animals living ox
shore for a period not less than two months,
apparently without taking food of any descrip-
tion, may.certainly be considered a remarkable
‘phenomenon in natural economy. That they
- live by absorption is evident, — that is, by.con-
suming the substance of their own bodies; be-
cause when they come first on shore, they are
excessively fat, and when they return to. the
sea, they are very lean.

Their inactivity and extreme lethargy when
on shore is astonishingly contrasted by their
gagacity and agility when inthe sea. They hava
been known to keep a boat from landing, by in-
tercepting it in the water when the crew had no
fire-arms ; and frequently, when one is pricked
with a lance, it will attack the boat with great
ferocity.

It is curious to remark, that the sea-elephant,
when lying on the shore, and threatened with
death, will often make no effort to escape into
the water, but lie still and shed tears, merely
raising the head to look at the assailant; and,
though very timid, will wait with composure the
club or the lance which takes its life. In close.
contact, every human effort would be of little
avail for the destruction of this animal, unwieldy
as it is, were it to rush forward, and exert the
power of its jaws; for this, indeed, is so enor-

FUR SEALS. 187

mous, that, in the agony of death, stones are
ground to powder between its teeth.

- If the. skull be indented in the killing of a
female with young, the indentation is found also"
upon the skull of the young. This sympathy,
which has been denied with regard to the human
species by some physiologists, evidently exists
in the economy of this animal.

- The species of seal, “which inhabits these
shores, is exclusively the fur-seal, or what is
called, in zoology, Phoca Falklandica, the Falk-
land Island Seal: This species has been distin-
guished by naturalists for its peculiarity of
shape ; but the circumstance of its possessing a
valuable fur, as well as the remarkable habits
of the animal, have not been noticed in any
description of the seal with which I have met. ©

The fur, from the almost general use to
which it is applied in the manufacture of caps,
must be well known ; and it is therefore unne-
cessary. to describe it further, than merely: to
observe, that after the hair which grows through
and over it is extracted, its natural appearance
is of a fine and curly. brown. oo

Nothing in this class of animals, and more par~_
ticularly in the fur-seal of Shetland, is more as-
tonishing than the disproportion in the size of
the male and female. A large grown male,
from the tip of the nose to.the extremity of the

138 THE SOUTH SHETLANDS ;

tail, is six feet nine inches, whilst the female
is not more than three feet and a half. This
class of males is not, however, the most numer- .
ous, but being physically the most powerful,
they keep in their possession all the females, to
the exclusion of the younger branches; hence,
at the time of parturition, the males attending the
females may be computed to be as one to twenty,
which shows this to be,. perhaps, the most poly-
gamous of large animals.

They are in their nature completely gregarious;
but they flock together, and assemble on the
coast at different periods, and in distinct classeg.
The males of the largest size go on shore about
the middle of November, to wait the arrival of
the females, which of necessity must soon follow,
for the purpose of bringing forth their young.
These, in the early part of December, begin to
land ; and they. are no sooner out of the water than
they are taken possession of by the males, who
have many serious battles with each other, in
procuring their respective seraglios; and, by a
peculiar instinct, they carefully protect the fe-
males under their charge during the whole period
of gestation.

By the end of December, all the female seals
have accomplished the purpose of their landing.
The time of gestation may be considered twelve
months, and they seldom have more than one at

FUR SEALS. 139

a time, which they suckle and rear apparently
with great affection. By the middle of February,
the young are able to take the water; and after
being taught to swim. by the mother, they
abandon them on the shore, where they remain
till their coats of fur and hair are completed.
During the latter end of February, what are.
called the Dog-seals go on shore: these are the.
young seals of the two preceding. years, and
such males as, from their want of age and
strength, are not allowed to attend the Pregnant
These young seals come on shore for the pur-.
pose of renewing their annual coats, which ‘be-
ing done by the end of April, they take to the
water, and scartely any are seen on shore again.
till the end of June, when some young males
come up and go off alternately. oo
_ They continue to do this for six-or seven
weeks, and the shores are then again abandoned.
till the end of August, when a herd of. small
young seals of both sexes come on shore for
about five or six weeks ;-—soon after, they retire:
to the water. The large male seals take up their
places on shore, as has been before described,
which completes the intercourse all classes have
with the shore during the whole year.
- "Fhe young are at frst black, in a few weeks
they become grey, and soon after obtain their.

140° THE SOUTH SHETLANDS ;

coat of hair and fur. M. Buffon describes the
longevity of the seal to be even so great as a
hundred years. I have estimated the female seal
to be in general at its full growth within four’
years, but possibly the male seal is much longer, .
very likely five or six years ; and some, which I
have contrasted with others of the same size,
could not, from their very old appearance, be lesa
than thirty years. .
When these Shetland seals were first visited,
they had no apprehension of danger, from meet-
ing men; in fact, they would lie still while their.
- neighbours were killed, and skinned ; but latterly
they had acquired habits for counteracting dan-:
ger, by placing themselves on rocks, from whieh.
they could, in a moment, precipitate themselves
into the water. The agility of these creatures is
much greater than, from their appearance, an
observer would anticipate. I have seen them,
indeed, often escape from men running fast in
pursuit to kill them. The absurd story, that seals
in general defend themselves by throwing stones.
at their pursuers with their tails, may be explain-
ed in this way; that when the animal is chased.
on a stony beach, their mode of propelling them-
selves is by drawing their hinder flippers for-
ward, thereby shortening the body, and project-
ing themselves from the tail, which, when re-
lieved by the effort of the fore flippers, throws
14

‘ FUR SEALS. 14

up a quantity of stones to the distance of s some
yards. :
Their senses of smell and hearing are acute,
and in instinct they are little inferior to the dog;
that is, I judge their sagacity in the water much
exceeds that which they exhibit on the shore; for
though they are fitted to remain a certain time
on land, their natural element is the water. In
_ proof of their docility, I may mention that I have
reared several young ones from three. or four
weeks old, to the age of two months, which were
so tame as to eat out of the hand with consider-
able fondness; but by some accident they were
allowed to fall or walk overboard.

These fur-seals may be distinguished from the
hair-seals of this hemisphere by their being ra-
ther of'a smaller size, and having the nose smaller

and more pointed. In swimming they have a
_ jumping motion like that of the porpoise. ..

The quantity of seals taken off these islands,
by vessels from different parts, during the years
1821 and 1822, may be computed at 320,000,
and the quantity of sea-elephant oil,.at 940 tons.
This valuable animal, the fur-seal, might, by. a
law similar to that which. restrains fishermen. in —
the size of the mesh of their net, have been
spared to render annually.100,000 furs, for many.
years to come. This would have followed from
not killing the mothers till the young were

142 THE SOUTH SHETLANDS 3

able to take the water; and even then, only
those which appeared to be old, together with a
proportion of the males, thereby diminishing
_ their total number, but in slow progression. ‘This
system is practised at the river of Plata. The
island of Lobos, in the mouth of that river, con-
tains a quantity of seals, and is farmed by the
Governor of Monte Video, under certain restric-
tions, that the hunters shall not take them but at
stated periods, in order to prevent the animals
from being exterminated. The system of exter-
mination was practised, however, at Shetland ;
for whenever a seal reached the beach, of what-
ever denomination, he was immediately killed,
and his skin taken ; and by this means, at the end
of the second year, the animals became nearly
extinct; the young having lost their mothers
when only three or four days old, of course all
died, which, at the lowest calculation, exceeded
100,000. |

‘I have mentioned that the only species of seal
fourid on these islands is that possessing the fur;
but a creature was reported to have been seen’ by
one of my crew, which, according to his account —
of it, must have been a non-descript. |

A boat’s crew were employed on Hall Island,
-.and the man who saw this animal was left on
one side of the island to take care of some pro-
duce, while the officers and the rest of the crew
were engaged on the other side.

‘NRON-DESCRIPT ANIMAL. «1438

:The sailor had gone to bed, and about 10
o’clock he heard.a noise resembling human cries,
and as daylight, .in these latitudes, never disap-
pears at this season, he rose, and looked around,
but on seeing no person, he returned to bed ;
presently he heard the noise agai, and rose a
second time, but still saw nothing. Conceiving
- however, the possibility of a boat being upset,
and that some of the crew might be clinging to
some detuched rocks, he walked along the beach
a few steps, and heard the noise ‘more distinctly,
but ‘in a musical strain.

On searching around, he saw an object lying
on arock, a dozen yards from the shore, at which
he was somewhat frightened. The face and
shoulders appeared of human form, and_of a red-
dish colour; over the shoulders hung long green
‘hair ;'the tail resembled that. of the seal, but:the
extremities of the arms he could not:see. dis-
tinctly. The creature continued to make’a musi-
eal noise while he gazed about two minutes, and
on perceiving. him ‘it disappeared in an instant.
Immediately when the man saw his: officer, he
told. this wild tale, the trath of which was, of.
course, doubted ; but to add weight td his testi-
mony (bemg a Catholic), he made.a cross on the
sand, which he kissed in form of making oath to
the'truth of his statement. «5

. When the story was told me, I ridiculed it; but,

144, THE SOUTH SHETLANDS.

by way of diversion, I sent for the sailor, who saw
this non-descript, into the cabin, and questioned
him respecting it, he told me the story as I
have related it, and in so clear and positive a
manner, making oath as to the truth, that I con-
cluded he must really have seen the animal he
described, or that it must have been the effects
of a disturbed imagination.

The small species of penguins are here abun-
dant ; and of sea-fowl, the following may be enu-
merated: aglets; Port Egmont hens; white
pigeons; the grey peterel, called by sailors
the Nelly ; snow birds; and, on the coast, I have
_ seen blue peterels.

Several pieces of wreck have been seen on the
western islands, and apparently of the scantling
of a'74 gun ship, which makes it too probable
that these are the remains of a Spanish ship of
war of that rate, which has been missing since the
year 1818, when she was on her passage to Lima.

On a beach in the principal island, which I
named Smith’s Island, in honour of the discoverer,
were found a quantity of seals’ bones, which ap-
peared to have been killed some years before,
probably to sustain the life of some ship-wrecked
crew ; suggesting the melancholy reflection that
some unfortunate human beings had ended their
days on this coast. In the year 1820, the first time
these islands were visited for their produce, four

DEPARTURE FOR TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 145

ships were totally lost. Part of the crews of
these vessels remained during the winter of
1821, but notwithstanding every precaution they
could take, with a strong house and ample sup-
plies, they suffered severely. The range of land
which lies 30 leagues to the south of the northern
cluster, consists of islands, and has been visited
for produce, but has not been accurately de-
scribed. It can seldom be approached on account
of ice, and the mountains are constantly covered
with snow.

No farther circumstances worthy of remark
having fallen within the sphere of my observ-
ation on these inhospitable shores, I shall now
return to the situation of the ship on the evening
of the 16th of November, when we had taken
our departure from these islands, bound to
Tierra del Fuego.

146

CHAP. VI.

VOYAGE TO TIERRA DEL FUEGO. — CAPE HORN. — THE
NATIVES; THEIR VISIT, MANNERS, &C. — PUNISHMENT
OF A THIEF, AND ITS GOOD EFFECT. — NATIVE DOGS.
— THE HABITS, BEHAVIOUR, &C. OF THE FUEGIANS. —
ISLANDS OF ST. FRANCIS. — CHANGE OF ANCHORAGE,
— OTHER TRIBES. — CANOE. — STATE OF SOCIETY, &c.
— ISLANDS OF DIEGO RAMIREZ. — LANGUAGE OF THE
FUEGIANS AND CURIOUS HEBREW ANALOGIES. — MUSIC
AND ITS EFFECTS. — NEW CLAY CLOTHING. — NECK-
RACES, BASKETS, BOWS. — ARRIVAL OF THE BEAUMFOY.
— FUEGIAN SETTLEMENT. — VESSELS SEPARATE. —
FACE OF THE COUNTRY. — EFFECT OF CLIMATE ON
THE FUEGIAN CHARACTER.

‘T'ae wind was moderate and easterly. till. the
18th in the afternoon, when it shifted into the
S.W. Our latitude at noon by observation was
58° 44’, and longitude by chronometers 66° 1’,
by D.R. 67° 27, the variation at 4 P.M. was
27° 30’. On the 20th the wind shifted into the
N.W. quarter, and we stood to the W.S.W. On
the 21st, in the morning, the wind again shifting
to S.W. we tacked to the northward, and
about four in the afternoon we saw Cape Horn,
bearing N. by W. about ten leagues; in this
position the Cape appears conspicuous, with
the hills of Hermit’s Island just above the
horizon. See Views of Land, 19. Cape Horn

CAPE HORN.- 147

is remarkable for its truly imposing figure and
situation, terminating the greatest north and
south extension of land on the globe. The
many disasters which have befallen ships off
this cape, the difficulty of getting round it to
the westward, and above all, the sufferings of the
fleet under Lord Anson, and in the expeditions
of Pizarro, induce people to consider this pro-
montory with more than common interest.

The weather proved squally and unsettled
through the night of the 28d, and we retained
an offing. At daylight the wind blew strong
from S.S.W., and we bore up for the bay of
St. Francis, which we reached by. two o’clock in
the afternoon, and anchored in Wigwam or St.
Martin’s Cove, in 16 fathoms water, over a
bottom of sand and mud. |

On the 25th we were employed in wooding
and watering the vessels, and during the day I
made observations, for latitude, longitude, ‘atid
variation. On the south side of the harbour is a
small cavity in the rock, in which I placed the
compass for taking a set of azimuths, but on ob-
serving the sun to bear N. 29 W. at noon, I sus-

pected the rock to be magnetic, atid took a

portion of it on board to ascertain the fact. I

stripped the card off the needle in order to make

it more susceptible, and found it, as I expected,

slightly acted’ upon by the rock. I next fixed
LZ

148 THE FUEGIANS.

the place for observation at the head of the har-
bour, where there was probably no local attrac-
tion, and found the variation to be 28° 4 east:
the latitude in the same situation was 55° 53’ 37”,
and the longitude by chronometers was 67°.
20’. 45”. ,

We took the opportunity of being in port to
repair farther the damage the vessels had sus-
tained by the ice, though we were not at leisure
to lighten the brig as much as was required for
making effectual repairs.

On the 26th the weather was remarkably fine,
and the wind blew lightly between 8.S.W. (by
west), and N.N.W. In the afternoon the Beau-
foy sailed, to examine some neighbouring islands.
for seal-furs. She had not passed out of sight,
when to my astonishment I saw two native
canoes paddling towards us: several of the
_brig’s crew were on board the Beaufoy; but as I
considered, that if properly treated, nothing
hostile need be feared from ‘the strangers, in
whatever numbers they might appear, I did not
recall them.

It was not long before the Fuegians arrived
within hearing; and soon made themselves’
known by a singing noise, accompanied with a
variety of gestures, which as I afterwards learned
were symbols of friendship. - They presently
paddled within eight or ten yards of the ship,

THE FUEGIAN LADIES. 149

and I desired our men to make friendly signs to
them in return, conveying a wish for them to
come on board; but they would not approach.
Amazement was apparent in all their actions; and
they seemed so agitated that, for a full quarter
of an hour, they continued gabbling without the
smallest intermission. At length their wonder
‘at our persons having in some degree subsided,
they paddled fore and aft about the ship, and
were to all appearance undecided whether the
vessel was dead or alive; for never having
seen a ship before, it could not be expected that
they should at once reason from the analogy
which their canoes afforded. Finally, having
acquired more confidence, they came on the
starboard side, and two of the men ventured on
board. From their very miserable appearance,
I thought the best office I could do them, would
be to give them something to eat and drink. I
therefore had beef, bread, and wine brought,
and helped them plentifully. Of the beef they
eat a lItttle, but neither the good Madeira wine
nor the bread was acceptable.

I soon saw that they were particular in keep-
ing their women in their canoes, at which I was
not sorry, as from the jealous disposition of
savages in general, it was advisable for us to
avoid any intercourse with their wives. I did
not, however, neglect helping the ladies to a

L 8 .

150 THE NATIVES’ ASTONISHMENT.

little wine, which I gave them in a japanned cup;
and this utensil appeared so marvellously fine
in their eyes, that they spilled the wime in ex-
amining it, and cunningly retained it. I did
not attempt to recover the cup, as I thought
they were certainly in want of it for drinking
with ; but on the following day I saw it in about
a dozen stripes suspended at the women’s necks.
_ The men seemed astonished at all they saw,
and every kind of iron work attracted their at-
tention more than any thing else —a cast iron pot
of 200 gallons surprised them so much, that they
were even afraid to approach it. Perceiving their
fondness for this metal, and having a quantity
of hoops on board, I gave each of them a piece,
with which they were quite delighted ; and soon
after receiving the present they left us, and re-
paired to their wigwams, which were situated at
the head of the harbour.

On the following morning, the 27th, by sun-
rise, they were lying off, making a great shout-
ing, expressive of their anxiety to see us, and
to get on board. I had given orders that they
should not be admitted till our crew were called
on deck in the morning, which was usually at
four o’clock. In the course of a little time a
third canoe was seen approaching, which our
first visitors met at some distance from the ship ;
and by their coming immediately on board all

THE MIRROR. ee) |

together, it was evident that the latter had been
informed by their countrymen of the friendly
reception they had met with. The number of
. our present visitors was twenty-two men, women
and children, and now that they had acquired
confidence in our amicable intentions, they be-
came interesting and amusing. I gave them all
in turns a sight of the cabin; and the bright stove,
and the looking-glass, were objects that pleased
them greatly. The monkey trick of looking be-
hind the mirror for the reflected object was fre-
quently practised ; and though they had no doubt
often seen themselves reflected in the water, -yet
having never before observed so sudden and dis-
tinct an appearance, their intuitive judgment was
not sufficiently acute to satisfy them of the simi- |
larity.

Knowing the propensity Indians generally
have to stealing, a watch was kept over them ;
but on the boatswain returning from the head of
the harbour, he informed me that they had
stripped a barrel of the hoops. An adept in the
art of pilfering had also displayed no mean talent
in stealing an. ireff belaying pin, notwithstanding
the strictness of the look-out. 3

I judged: it proper to impress them with an
idea of the offence of stealing; and accordingly
placed this criminal in the main rigging, and gave
him a smart lash with a cat of nine tails, making

L 4

152 SAWING AMUSES THE NATIVES.

him understand that it was a punishment for the
rime of which he had been guilty. This gentle
chastisement had the desired effect, for they were.
ever after afraid even to lift a piece of iron with-
out permissidn.

On the 27th the weather was fine with a fresh
breeze from the S.W. Our carpenters were
employed felling trees, and sawing them into
boards. The operation of sawing amused our
friends, the Fuegians, greatly ; and.their attach.
ment to the saw would no doubt have led to the
stealing of it, had we not always brought it on
board at night. This day only men and boys
came on board: the cause of leaving their women
behind I could not learn, but they were probably
employed in some domestic concerns.

Among this tribe was a fine grown boy of
about the age of fourteen, whom I would have
liked much to remain with us, but as soon as he
understood my desire he returned to his canoe,
and I never afterwards could persuade him to
come on board.

On the 28th the wind was variable, having
gone completely round the compass, and blowing
fresh. This morning all the Fuegians came
along side, and in a different dress, or rather.
colouring, for the. women had changed the hue
of their countenances from red to jet black, and
the men were decorated with red and white

A NATIVE DOG. 153

streaks running horizontially across the face.
Their appearance altogether was as grotesque
as can well be imagined ; though ‘in their estima-
tion it was, no doubt, considered the perfection
of fashion. In the early part of our acquaint-
ance, whenever I expressed a desire for any of
their small articles they gave me them without -
any return; but now they had acquired an idea
of barter, and in exchange for any of their ar-
ticles of simple manufacture, they demanded
something bright, such as buttons, &c. ; but bits
of iron hoops were particularly objects of esteem ;
and I have no doubt, but in this trifle they con-
- ceived our riches to consist.

A youth of engaging features whom I had on
board, was the most successful in this traffic:
the women seemed much interested with him,
though I am at a loss to know whether they were
right in their idea of his sex, a3 with them the
females do all the work, and this youth was here
kept in constant employment. I procured a
young dog from them, which was remarkable
for its cunning : they have only one kind of this
animal, and it partakes much of the nature of the
fox, resembling it a good deal about the head,
and being nearly the size of the terrier. They
are remarkably fond of their dogs; and if they
have any object to which they ascribe superna-
tural power, it may possibly be to thém, since

154 PETTY THEFTS OF THE NATIVES.

their attention to them, and dependence on them
for safety, is greater than could be expected.

On the 29th, the weather was fine, and the
wind from W.S.W. Early in the morning, the
Beaufoy arrived ; and this was not unobserved
by: the Fuegians, who immediately went on
board,- where they were kindly received by the
crew. Curiosity was mutual, and the sailors
took great delight in friendly intercourse with
them. ‘They committed several petty thefts on
board the Beaufoy; and one in particular is
worth mentioning, as it exhibits in a remarkable
degree their powers of imitation.

A sailor had given a Fuegian a tin pot full of
coffee, which he drank, and was using all his art
to steal the pot. The sailor, however, recollect-
ing, after a while, that the pot had not been re-
turned, applied for it, but whatever words he
made use of were always repeated in imi-
tation by the Fuegian. At length, he became
enraged at hearing his requests reiterated, and
placing himself in a threatening attitude, in an
angry tone, he said, ‘* You copper-coloured ras-
cal, where is my tin pot?” The Fuegian, as-
suming the same attitude, with his eyes fixed on
the sailor, called out, ‘* You copper-coloured
rascal, where is my tin pot?” The imitation
was so perfect, that every one laughed, except
the sailor, who proceeded to search him, and

ATTEMPTED ESCAPE. 155

under his arm he found the article missing.
For this audacious theft, he would have pu-
nished the mimic, but Mr. Brisbane interpos«
ing, sent him into his canoe, and forbade his
being allowed to come on board again.

On tlie 2d of December, about mid-day, the
Fuegians were seen close to the shore, paddling
their canoes out of harbour, without having
previously shown any intention of leaving the
place. This they were, no doubt, considering
as a fortunate escape, for notwithstanding a strict
watch had been kept over them, during their
stay with us, I had reason to suspect that
they had stolen several small articles, and were
now thinking to get clear off with their booty.
Instead of the roar which they generally kept —
up, not a voice was to be heard amongst them,
and ‘the canoes were so close to the shore, that
' we could scarcely discern them. I immediately:
ordered the boat to be manned, and put off.
The Fuegians were now paddling with all their
strength to get beyond our reach, but in vain:
we soon overtook them; and they looked as if
they expected to be searched for stolen goods ;
but they were not a little surprised-when, instead
of'this, I presented each of the men with a piece
of hoop, and each of the women, by way of a
medal, with a brightened halfpenny, with a hole
punched fora string, for suspending it to the neck.

156 THE CUSTOMS OF THESE SAVAGES}

They were very grateful for these trifles; and I
took farewell of them with a hearty shake of
the hand. Being now at ease, they commenced
their usual roar and paddled off. ©

Having related these incidents as they oc-
curred, I may, with propriety, say something of
the impressions I received as to the character of
this tribe. :

I would willingly, for the honour of human
nature, raise these neglected people somewhat
higher in the scale of intellectual estimation than
they have reached ; but I must acknowledge their
condition to be that of the lowest of mankind. ©
At this age of the world, it appears almost in-
credible, and certainly disgraceful, that there
should still exist such a tractable people in almost
pristine ignorance.

As I found nothing of foreign manufacture
among the Fuegians, it may be reasonably con-
cluded that we were their first visitors, at least
of the present generation. The savage custom
of the women doing all the work prevails here :
they paddle the canoes, while the men sit at
their ease ; they gather the shell-fish food, rear
the children, build the wigwams, and, in short,
perform every duty that requires exertion,
though in return, however, the men show a
good deal of affection for their wives, and are
careful of their offspring. An instance of their

THEIR FORMS, FEATURES, AND DRESSES. 157

parental affection appeared on occasion of my
visiting their wigwams one morning unexpect-
_ edly, when, supposing that [ had come on shore
to steal their children, they infolded them in
their arms, and all.the signs of. amity I could
express, were insufficient: to induce them to let
them go. :

The stature of these Fuegians i is low. I mea-
sured two of their ordinary sized men,. and found.
one of them five feet four inches, and the other.
five feet five. The contour of their faces, and
the form of their. heads, as exhibited in .the
annexed plate, are those which are found.to be
peculiar to most Indians: they have flat noses,
small eyes, full and well formed chests, small
arms ; — their legs are small and ill shaped, which
arises, no doubt, from the custom of sitting .on
their calves, in which situation their appearance
is truly awkward.

The women are better featured than the men:
many of their faces are interesting, and, in my
opinion, they have a more lively sense of what
passes. ‘The only clothing the males wear, is a
skin over their shoulders, reaching little more
than half way down the back; some have not
even this sorry garment. ‘The women have
generally a larger skin over their shoulders,
and are, in other respects, clothed as decency
requires ; and even the youngest of their female

158 THE ISLANDS OF ST. FRANCIS.

children have the same covering, which evinces
a degree of modesty seldom found amongst un-
tutored people.

By the account I have given of this tribe, the
reader will be able to form a general idea in re-
gard to these remote Australians, but a particular
relation of our further communications with them
will be necessary to assist him in forming just
conclusions; and as a single glance is not sufficient
to enable an observer to decide accurately, I
shall describe minutely their behaviour and in-
clinations, by which alone a true estimate of
their character is to be obtained. :

On the 2d of December, the weather being
fine, Captain Brisbane accompanied me in a
whale-boat up the bay, and assisted me in making
observations on its navigation. From a consi-
derable height, we perceived several channels
running through the supposed termination, form-
ing a cluster of islands, which, being separated
from the main islands of ‘Tierra del Fuego, by a
navigable strait, may, with some propriety, be
called the Islands of St. Francis, after the name
of the sound, which appears to have been first
entered in the year 1714.

Having sounded a safe anchorage, in very
smooth water, which the accompanying chart.
exhibits, we returned on board.

At 10 in the morning of the 3d, we weighed,

ILDEFONSOS ISLANDS AND TURN POINT. 159

and both vessels proceeded with a moderate
breeze from N.E. towards the islands of Ilde-
fonsos. ‘At 6 P.M., Cape Horn bore E. $°5.
distance six leagues. In the morning of the
4th, we were within two and a half miles of
the Ildefonsos, and each vessel sent a boat. on
shore. We continued off these islands, with
pleasant weather till the 7th, when I stood over, —
with the Jane, to Tierra del Fuego, a distance of
sixteen miles, to search for an anchorage. The |
principal officers being absent, I sent the boat.
swain, with a whale-boat, among some islands
which were likely to afford what I sought. He
presently returned with a report, of having found
a cove, round a point, which I called Turn Point,
with good bottom, in which several vessels might
anchor. On this we made all sail back te the
Iidefonsos, and after having received our boats
on hoard, with a quantity of fur-seal.skins, both
vessels made sail to Turn Point. It was 1@
q’clock. before we reached the cove in which. we
were to bring up; and it being dark, I desired
the baatswain to inform me when he thought we
were within a proper distance to drop the ane.
chor, as we could see the land. but imperfectly ;
but through his indistinct recollection of the
place we were close, to the surf on the beach
before he gave any intimation ; and it was only:
by dropping the anchor, at the instant our situ-

160 BLUNDER COVE.

ation was discerned, though with the topsail af
the masthead, that we were prevented from
going on the rocks. Fortunately the wind was
light; and after the sails were taken in, by means
of a stream-anchor laid out, we moved the vessel
into safety. I was angry with the boatswain for
his mismanagement; and that he might improve
his judgment, by being reminded of his mistake,
I called this place Blunder Cove. In justice to
this person, however, I must say, he was a good
seaman, and well disposed: his error in judg-
ment arose, from having formed an opinion of -
the capacity of the anchorage from a boat ;— for
instead of being large enough for several vessels,
there was scarcely room for one. The altitude.
of the eye above the horizon is frequently very
delusive in the estimation of space, if the angle
under which objects are seen be not particularly
attended to. The Beaufoy had anchored a little
to the outside of us; and the following morn-
ing, having determined on sending her again
to Shetland, arrangements were made for that
purpose. I fully expected that the coast would
be clear of ice, by the time she would arrive,
which would be within a few days of mid-
summer. . :

As I did not.consider this anchorage con-
venient, I went in a whale-boat in search of one
more commodious; and little more than a mile

A NEW TRIBE OF FUEGIANS. | 161

to the eastward, I found one with a. clear
bottom of sand and mud beneath in twenty
fathoms water, within three cables’ length of the
shore. We were taking the depth of water with
the lead, when among the kelp we saw four ca-
noes of Fuegians. They were a little startled at
first observing us; but, according to the Fuegian
mode of salutation, they soon commenced shout-
ing, and making ludicrous attitudes expressive
of joy. We. rowed within twelve or fourteen
yards of them, and held up.some pieces of iron
hoop, which caught their attention. Like our
former visitors, jedlousy, or particular care of
their women, seemed a principal consideration ;
for the men all shifted into two canoes, ‘and
came to us,-leaving the women behind. We.
soon inspired them with confidence, and pointed
‘out the vessels, making signs to them to follow.
us, which they hurriedly did, bringing their wo-
men with them; and as the men on this occasion
assisted to. paddle the canoes, they were almost
able to keep pace with our whale-boat against
a head-sea. This tribe being strangers, and of
better stature than those we had formerly met
with, new interest was created in our intercourse
with them. From the astonishment they exhibited,
and from their not having the smallest article of
any thing foreign with them, Iam inclined to think
that, like the others, they had never seen strangers
: M

162 A CANOE PURCHASED

before. They possessed a variety of articles of
their own manufacture, for which we gave in:
exchange some things almost useless to us, but.
very interesting to them.

Though I was. anxious to give them al the
things we could spare, which might be of value.
to them, bits of iron hoop I knew were the most
useful, as the only material for cutting which they
possessed was the muscle-shell. I have no doubt
that the articles they received from us will, for
many years to come, bear testimony to future
visitors of our friendly intercourse. .

- As in consequence of the separation of the
Beaufoy we should be left with but two boats, I
considered that, in‘the event of their being ab-
sent, one of the Buegian canoes might be. use-
ful, and J, therefore, set about purchasing a new
one fromthem. As it appeared to have cost them
much labour in the construction, I could not
but be liberal in my offer, and I presented.them
with two full barrel hoops, at which they shouted
for joy, and in less than five minutes the family,
with all their utensils, were shifted into another
canoe, and the purchased one was ready for
delivery. I ordered it to be hoisted in, and was
surprised to find it heavy ; but in getting it on
deck, I found a platform of clay, the whole
length of the bottom, about six inches deep:
this was intended as ballast, and to preserve the

_ AND. DESCRIBED. 863

bottom against the fire, which they constantly |
keep in the clay. The length of this canoe was
twelve feet four inches, and at the broadest:
part two feet two inches: it was built of a strong
birch bark, which appeared broader than the
trees of this neighbourhood afforded, and was |
probably procured. from the interior. Three
pieces composed the whole vessel, one piece
formed the bottom, and two the sides ; all sewed
together with tough twigs. The ribs or timbers
were of a semicircular form, and plated with
their flat sides downwards, and in’ contact with
each other, m a vertical form ; so that, with the
cement of clay, the canoe is rendered sttdny,.
and capable of going against the wind at. 4
quick rate. The internal arrangement of. com:
partments seems orderly. The fishing utensils
occupy the first division ; in the next sits the
female, who uses the foremost paddle ; the third
division is occupied as the fire-place; the fourth
is the baling well, where the water is eollected
to-be thrown out; and next follows the place
where the men sit; in the fifth division sits the
female, who uses the after paddle; and last of
all is the after-locker, in which they keep all
their valuables. . Their spear poles are gene-
rally placed projecting over the stern.

Having secured the canoe and the paddles; I
returned to the contemplation of the sellers, |

M2

164 INSTANCES OF APPETITE.

who, I was glad to. see, were quite merry, and
seemingly happy in the possession of the hoops
with which I had paid them. | ;

Hunger now beginning to pinch them, they-
turned their attention to some of the crew, who.
were employed in splitting whale-bone blades.
for making brooms; and perceiving the gum
upon the bone, as it was-still in the state in
which it was taken from the whale, they seized.
this mucilaginous substance, and eat it most.
ravenously,. I thought this an instance of de-
praved appetite, but in another part of the ship
was one still more disgusting. ‘They were here
gobbling up some dirty rancid seal fat, which —
had been lying about for several days. I was
willing that they should get something to satisfy
the cravings of hunger, but this way of doing it
was intolerable, and I obliged them to desist.
I then gave them some young seal, and some
bread, which they put away in their canoe for a
future occasion. | |

As ‘we had no spirits on board, I offered them
wine, and pressed them to. take some, but, like
their countrymen at. Cape Horn, they merely
sipped a little, seeming not to like it.

The common missile weapon of the F uegians
is the sling, which is made of the skin of the
seal or otter. It is generally about three feet
long, and of the common form: the strings

14

THE SLING AND THE SPEAR. 165

are sometimes made of small gut, handsomely
plaited, and terminated :by knots of ingenious
workmanship. Having procured some of these
weapons, I prevailed on one of the most intelli-
gent natives. to show us their method of using
them, which turned out to be exactly like our
own; for Mr. Brisbane, who well understood the
art, used the sling with as much effect asthe
- Fuegians, at which they were a good deal asto-
nished. :
- Their prineipal spear-heads are entirely. con.
structed of hard bone, and are about seven inches
long, finely pointed, with a barb on one side
four inches from the point. They have: an.
_other kind, with one side filled with small
barbs, made very sharp. These are fixed: on’ a
wooden pole, straight and. smoothly ‘finished,
about ten feet long. To the bone is attached-a
string of hide of various lengths, and this weapon
they use in the capture of almost’ every thing
they pursue. In using the spear, they hold it
nearly by the middle, and with the right eye
cast along it, they dart it with great. precision.
-After dinner our. people, before they went to
duty, sought a Tittle amusement with the
strangers; and one “meery fellow of our crew
commenced singing: and: dancing, at which the
Fuegians formed a circle round him, and imi-
tated his song and dance most minutely. The
, M 3 |

166 A NATIVE WRESTLES WITH A SAILOR.

circular movement, however, presently turned
into a. sort of play, in which a sailor and Fue-
gian. were endeavouring to throw each other.
I at first fully expected to see the Fuegian fall,
but I was ‘mistaken: he stood so firm, that it
appeared’ more probable that our sailor, who
was a.stout athletic young man of twenty-three,
would ultimately be thrown. The Fuegian was
evidently as'skilful as his adversary, but several
of the natives, thinking their countryman in
danger, flew to his assistance, and I was then
obliged to interfere to bring them to order.
The Fuegian seemed to enjoy a triumph,: at
which I was.a little mortified, as their obtaining
an idea of. having equal strength and activity
might prove dangerous to us. -I1 could no€
avoid being angry with our sailor for his inac-
tivity, and desired him in future never to con-
tend with them in that way.
_ 1 was anxious to discover if they had any ob-
ject of divine worship, and accordingly called
them together about me, and read a chapter in
the Bible; not that they were expected to un-
derstand what was read, but it was proper to
show them the Bible, and to read it, in connec-
tion with making signs of death, resurrection,
and supplication ‘to heaven. ‘They manifested
no understanding of my meaning; but as I read
and made signs, they imitated me, following me

NO SIGNS OF RELIGION. 167

with a gabble. when reading, raising and lower-
ing their voices as. I did. During this time;
however, they appeared perfectly attentive, look-
ing me stedfastly in-the face with evident marks
of astonishment.. Qne of them held his ear
down to the book, believing that it spoke, and
- another wished to put it into his canoe ::in short,
they were all interested in the beok, and could
they have made proper: use of it I would wile
lingly have given it them.

A thief, however, was not wanting in “this
party; for having brought the tinder-box. on
deck, for the purpose of ascertaining how they
obtain a light, a Fuegian adept stole the steel,
He was suspected, and on being searched it was
found .under his. arm. I sent him.to his canoe
with threats of punishment, which he well un-
derstood.

They procure fire by rubbing iron pyrites and
a flinty stone together, and catching the. sparks
in.a dry substance resembling moss, which is
quickly ignited.

Our sailors had given the Fuegians all the old
clothes they could spare’; .and our visitors. soon
appeared in costume, one with only a jacket on,
another with but .a waistcoat, and.a third'in hig —
shirt: they were all so clothed in. patches that
they made a-most amusing d4ppearance. —

M 4.

168 STATE OF SOCIETY.

Nothing like a chief could be made out
among them, nor did they seem to require one
for the peace of their society; for their beha-
viour to one another was most affectionate, and
all property seemed to be possessed in common,
though each of them appeared strenuous to
obtain it from us, without regarding his neigh-
bour, probably for the honour attached to pro-
curing any thing, ‘or the novelty of first posses-
sion. ‘The philanthropic principle which these
people exhibit towards one another, and their
inoffensive behaviour to strangers, surely entitles
them to this observation in their favour,: that
though they are the most distant from civilised
life, ‘owing principally to local circumstances,
they are the most docile and tractable of any
savages we are acquainted with, and no doubt
might, therefore, be instructed in those arts
which raise man above the brute.

On the 9th of December, about noon, we
weighed, and stood tosea, with the wind at N.N.E.
The Beaufoy proceeded to South Shetland, and
we stood under the east side of the Ildefonsos.
These are so small as searcely to merit the name
of islands, the largest beng not more than a quar-
ter of a mile long. They appear as two in a S.E.
or N.W. bearing; but the northern one is merely
a cluster of detached rocks: the southern island

THE ISLANDS DIEGO RAMIREZ. ‘° 169

is the largest and highest, and contains a quan-
tity of tussac on its top, and sea-gull rookeries.
These islands have. no beaches, and can only be
landed on when.the water is very smooth. Be-
tween them is a channel of a mile wide, which
being rocky should not be passed through. At
various opportunities I ascertained the longitude
of the southern islands by lunar observations and
chronometers to be 69° 16’ 50”, and the latitude
55° 50’ 38”; and the variation at five miles’ dis-
tance 26° 42’ easterly. The rock of which they
are composed is trap porphyry, with porphyritic’
lava, and they wear a rugged and varied form,
as may be seen by the annexed view. |
In the night of the 9th we stood towards the
islands Diego Ramirez, and at two o’clock in
the afternoon of the 10th we sent two boats on
shore. These islands extend N.W. and S.E. ‘for
a space of about four miles, in which are three
principal islands, and a great many rocks above
water. The middle island is the largest, and
-has tussac and sea-gulls upon it, but no water.
The latitude observed places the south point in
56° 32’ 15”, and by chronometers in longitude
68° 24’ 15”. The composition of the rock is
porphyritic lava.. Specimens were deposited: by
me in the Edinburgh College Museum, and de-
scribed by Professor Jamieson, which show that
volcanic action has been present in the formation

170 °" .° TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

of these islands. — A distant view of them i is
annexed.

The weather continued fine, and the wind
from the northward and eastward till eight A.M.
on the 11th, when the wind freshened at S.E.,
and by the time we had taken our boats on
board, it blew hard, and we bore up for Tierra
del Fuego. On the 12th we camé to anchor
-in Clear Bottom Bay, in 20 fathoms -water, in
coarse sand with mud underneath. During the
13th and 14th we had strong gales from S.W.
to .W., and we let go the sheet anchor, and rode
a strain upon it. On the 16th we had: heavy
rain, and the wind abated. In consequence of
the badness of the weather our Fuegian friends
did not visit us ; and having completed our har-
bour duties, on the 19th we weighed and pro-
ceeded to the Ildefonsos. We continued un-
der sail pursuing our business at these islands
with favourable weather, and the winds generally
between W.S.W. and W.N.W. through the day,
and northerly during the night. On the 25th
in the afternoon I was surprised to see the Beau-
foy approach us, as I fully anticipated that she
would have obtained anchorage at South Shet-
land. Captain Brisbane informed me that the
state of the ice on the coast of Shetland was
nearly the same as when we left it on the 16th
of November, although it was the 18th of De-

INDIAN COVE. 171

cember when he quitted the edge of the ice.
He ran 40 miles along the coast, but could no-
where approach the land. The ice, too, he re-
ported, was of that heavy blue description which
was likely to require a long time to dissolve, and
he therefore gave up the idea of waiting. He
also informed me, that having split his sails
the day before, on making this coast, he had put
into a harbour which was very commodious,
situated 11 miles up a sound, which I afterwards
called New Year’s Sound, having spent New
Year’s Day in it.

A smooth anchorage being necessary for exe
amining the brig, and making repairs, we bore
up for New Year’s Sound, and at ten o’clock in
the morning of the 26th we came to anchor
in Indian Cove, so named from a tribe of Fuegians
living near it.

Having moored the vessels in the south cor-
ner of the cove, we set about lightening the brig
forward, in order to make repairs. I-was not
astonished when I found that the bows of the
Jane were much damaged, as the shocks that
she had received by unavoidably running against
masses of ice were likely to have been even more
destructive.

The two lower streaks of the wales*, on

* Strong planks that go round a ship, a little above
her water line.

172 += =A RENEWAL OF THE INTERCOURSE

the bows, on the larboard side, and one on
the starboard side, were found broken. The
foremost piece of the stem was broken, and the
plank that was stove under water was providen-
tially jammed in hetween the timbers in such a
way as, with the plank we had nailed over it on
the coast of South Shetland, to have admitted
very little water. The fore part of the vessel
being sufficiently out of the water to effect the
repairs, the carpenters were set to work.

The Fuegians had of course noticed the ships
come in, as their settlement was on an island at
the entrance of the cove; but as they had seen
only the cutter before, they were cautious and
slow in coming to the brig. They presently
approached, however, in several canoes, shouting
as usual, and spreading out their arms, apparently
impressed with a sensation of fear and joy. I
soon enticed them on board ; for though we did
not understand each others’ language, yet inter-
course with them afforded me, through their
actions, a melancholy pleasure in observing the
gradation of human understanding. |

Among these I saw several with a cast of fea-
tures differing from. the general character of
Fuegians, having high noses, and being somewhat
taller than the rest.

It occurred to me that these differences of
features might be faint traces of the Spaniards,

“bong:

7

DMA

“Aid )

Zz,

ys
7

y*

wn

Bho, priiyny prem Aaliy,

RE oe a

ail

_ WITH THE FUEGIANS, 173

who made a settlement in the straits of Magellan
244 years ago, but which lasted only seven years.
The ancestors of these Fuegians might have
been in intercourse with these Spaniards at that
period; and those Fuegians I have mentioned as
differing in features may have descended from
that connection. This seems probable from their
having two Spanish words canoa, canoe, and
perro, a dog. My steward, who was a Spaniard,
addressed them many times, but could never
discover their having any other words of Spanish.

I found great difficulty in acquiring a slight
knowledge of their language, from their con-
tinually repeating my words in imitation; so
that I am not quite decided as to the meaning
of many of their sounds, and shall therefore not
attempt to describe them particularly.

Sayam means Water.
Abaish ——~ Woman.
Shevoo —— § Approbation.
Nosh’ ——- Displeasure.

And in most of their words it may be observed
that the sounds S and Sh predominate..

‘These words which I have mentioned are
found to correspond pretty nearly with words of
similar meaning in the Hebrew language. ‘Thus
I am informed that.yam means sea or water, and
ausha, woman, in Hebrew; and also that the

174 DERIVATION OF THEIR LANGUAGE.

sounds S and Sh occur perpetually i in that lan-
guage.

- The words canoa, a canoe, and perro, a dog,
which I have mentioned above as being derived
from the Spanish, may also be ultimately re-
ferred to the same original; for in Hebrew, carina
means a hollow reed or receptacle, a cane, —and
pera,.a wild animal, These and many other
words, originally Hebrew, which are to be found
_ in the Spanish language, can be easily accounted
for, as having found their way into it through
the Arabic, the language of the Moors; but
~hew the Fuegians gould get hold of Hebrew
words is certainly a question of some interest to
philologists.

On the 27th I sent the Beaufoy to the island
of Diego Ramirez, with fourteen men additional
from the brig. In the forenoon about forty
Fuegians came on board, and amused themselves
in various ways. A boy was kept constantly
watching them, to prevent thieving ; but from
their spreading about the decks, though I had
every valuable movable put below, he probably
did not succeed in preventing stealth.

I had given the mass a present of some seal’s
fat, and young seal, killed when about three
weeks old; but one of them, an old fellow about
60, was not satistied with this donation, and stole
a young seal from a sailor, who had cleaned it,

“PROPERTY IN COMMON. - 195

intending it for his own dinner. © It is the jitc-
tice of the Fuegians to laugh at being detected
in a theft; but this old man, on being discovered,
was much.dlarmed, and went to his canoe, nor
did he venture from the settlement until he un-
derstood, at my seeing him there, that he was
taken into favour again:

. This tribe were clothed in a similar way to
those of their countrymen. we had met. with
before: they had only ‘askin over their shoulders,
_ and several of them were quite naked, .unless red
ochre may be considered a covering, for of that
they wore a complete coat. We had few old
clothes to spare, having been liberal to our first
visitors; but in lieu of otter skins, which I pur-
chased off their backs, I gave each of them a
garment of some description. I had given one
of them a white flannel shirt, which he slipped
on, and skipped about among his companionsin -
great ecstasy. This shirt being in high estima-
tion, they wore it by turns for eight or ten
minutes, and after. being satisfied with it in this
form, they tore it into ribbons, and divided it
share and share alike. This was an instance of
their holding property in common.

Having occasion to fill some casks. with water
in the after part of the ship, in order to raise her
still more forward, I set the Fuegians to draw
water; and after being shown. the most conve-

1376 DELIGHTED WITH MUSIC.

nient way, they performed it with as much expe- -
dition as our own people. [also employed them in
pulling and hauling, when we required strength,
and this they did with eagerness, but the noise
of singing to each pull was deafening: after hear-
ing one of our sailors sing, as is usual, they thought |
that it was to be imitated also, and all roared to-
gether in unison. The women and little chil-
dren. remained in the canoes close alongside,
and they were kept amused by receiving small
presents occasionally. I tried what effect music
would have, and had the fiddle played to them.
It seemed to please them, but the German flute
still more, and vocal music more than either.
The women, indeed, were in ecstasy at hearing
a song given by a young man who had a fine
voice. I showed them some sea paintings, which
attracted their attention, though only for a mo-
ment; but I remarked those of the most glaring
colours retained their admiration longest and
most. °

An opportunity offered our visitors of chang-
ing their dress. This was at a tub of dark clay,
which we had brought from the Falkland Islands.
They soon rubbed on a complete coat of it, and
were highly pleased with their new costume.
The women, too, were indulged with a slight
rub; when the clay became dry, however, I
fancy they found it unpleasant, as they all soon
rubbed it off again.

CURE OF SORE EYES. 177

Observing one of them with sore eyes, I made
a liniment, and washed them. He evidently per-
ceived my intention, and I believe expected that
he was to be cured at once; which did not, of
course, take place, but, by washing them twice
or thrice a day, in three days they were nearly
well. I had cut the hair from over the eyes of
this man, because it irritated them ; and his
countrymen thought it improved the appearance,
and came to me to have theirs cut in the same
way. As it was a harmless request, I complied
with their desire, and, to amuse them, powdered
them with flour. The ladies were quite delighted
with this head-dress, but I found it too expensive
to be continued, not having an over-abundant
supply of the article on board.

I had made them acquainted with the destruc-
tive effects of firearms, and at the report of a
great gun, which we fired, the women shrieked,
and the men were appalled, and looked at the
engine with a vacant gaze.

I observed a bold and cunning fellow among
this people, whom I judged to be the appointed
thief of this tribe. This fellow, having found
his way into the main-top, was trying to pull off
the iron work about it. I made signs to him to
come down, but he paid no attention. Having
my ‘pistols in my pocket, I pointed one at him,
merely to frighten him into compliance, and he

N

178 INSOLENCE OF A NATIVE.

descended ; but on. reaching the deck, he put
on a revengeful countenance, and threw a piece
of rag in my face. As I was determined to check
this insolence, I took up my fowlingpiece, which
was at hand, and presented it; at which he fled
to the forepart of the ship, and his companions
with him, shouting for fear. The women joined
in the howl of alarm; but peace was soon re-
stored by my sending the offender into his canoe,
and putting my fowlingpiece below. I intended,
at a proper opportunity, to make this fellow sen-
sible of his ill behaviour, but, in the meantime,
I only forbade his coming on board. By this
little misunderstanding their confidence in. our
friendly consideration for them was shaken, as
they retired to their settlement much sooner
than usual.

There being but eight of us in number on
board, two of whom were boys, it became neces-
sary, in case of any dangerously offensive beha-
viour of the Fuegians, that we should be armed,
and [ therefore required each person to have a
cutlass, and a musket or pistol at hand.

In the morning of the 30th, about four o’clock,
between forty and fifty Fuegians jumped on board,
in defiance of those of our crew who were on deck.
The second mate, Mr. Mathewson, taking an
alarm, came to my state-room, saying that the na-
tives intended to take possession of thevessel. His.

2.0

RELIGION. _ 179

-suspicioris were rational, but his fears turned out
to be groundless ; for, on my going up with my
pistols in my hand, some who were on the cabin
stairs, trying to get below, flew up, and those
on deck I brought immediately to order. It is
not unlikely that a skirmish would have taken
place had my people been allowed to strike
them, for a little irritation would, most likely,
have roused them at least to defence.

Their conduct in the morning had been ir-
regular, but I took no further notice of it, after
bringing them to their usual course of inoffen-
sive behaviour.

In the middle of the day I assembled these
people together, in order to ascertain if they had
any idea of a future state. I practised the simé
mode of enquiry as I had done with the last
tribe, by reading out of the Bible, and making
signs to them. I certainly observed them to
have a solemn feeling, which they exhibited ‘by
looking each other in the face, with a counte-
nance expressive of extreme wonder, and speak-
ing to one another in a low tone of voice; but,
notwithstanding these appearances of a religious
principle, I could discern nothing like a form of _
wofship among them.

By making them small presents at various
times, I procured a quantity of articles of theit
manufacture, such as necklaces, baskets, bows _

N 2

180 NECKLACES, BASKETS, BOWS.

and ‘arrows. These, which ‘are their’ principal
possessions, I shall shortly describe.

Their necklaces are very ingeniously put to-
gether, and consist of small shells of the turbin-
ated genus, possessing a beautiful coloured en-
amel. ‘They are perforated near the orifice, .and
are strung together on a cord made of gut, so
neatly plaited, that, though it is only the thickness
of small whip-cord, it contains no fewer than five
strings, so exceedingly small that it creates some
wonder how they can perform the plaiting by.
the hand... _

Their baskets are made of strong grass, and
exhibit considerable skill in the construction.
The grass is put together after the man-
ner of weaving, the blades being worked at
Tight angles, and over the top is a handle
equal to half the circumference of the bas-
ket.

Their bows are generally about three feet
eight inches long, and are made of an elastic
wood which is smooth and hard. The string is
of seal-skin, and sometimes of gut plaited: the
arrows are of hard wood, and finely polished ;
they are about twenty-five inches in length, with
a sharp triangular flint for the point, fixed into a
cleft in the wood. When the arrow has entered,
the shaft may be drawn out, but the flint re-
mains.

ARRIVAL OF THE BEAUFOY. | 181

- They have another weapon, consisting of .a
similar-shaped flint, inserted in a handle about
nine inches long ; and this they probably use:as
a stiletto. | ce

I am not aware that these people are given to
_ war, though I saw three of this tribe with scars
on their bodies, which indicated their having .re-
ceived wounds. . |

On the 31st the Beaufoy arrived with a quan-
tity of seal-skins, and came to anchor. Our
carpenters had now completed their work on the
bows of the brig, and we proceeded to stowing
the hold, and. bringing the vessel into her usual
trim. |

As I can duly appreciate the nature of a good
shipwright, it is but justice to my. carpenter,
_. J. Aitkenson, to say that his skill and industry
on this occasion, of repairing serious damages
with few materials, gave me great satisfaction.
. Our friends, the Fuegians, came again on board
soon.after. the. arrival of the Beaufoy, no doubt
expecting a feast of seal’s fat and flesh. They
were not disappointed, for Mr. Brisbane had
brought them a quantity, and it was shared out
among them. Our people were busily employed
in cutting blubber from the seal-skins, when the
natives, enticed by the strippings of fat, ex-
pressed a desire to assist. . I allowed them to do
so, and they appeared clever at the business. It

N 3

182 THIEVERY.

was soon noticed, however, that they had an-
other intention besides that of dressing the skins ;
for one fellow, while at work, had hauled a skin,
bit and bit, under his arm, in a most dexterous
manner. But the second mate had observed the
theft, and when the Fuegian was proceeding to
leave the ship, made him deliver up his prize, at
which he laughed most heartily, though on my
approaching he retired to his canoe, quite aware
that he had offended me.

Their knowledge of barter had evidently i in-
creased their spirit for thieving, so that they
would now steal articles from the cutter, and
endeavour to sell them at the brig for some
things they liked better, and vice versa.

As we had now no fears of being overpower-
ed by numbers, I had got the fellow on board,
who had thrown the rag in my face, and made
him understand that I had it in my power
to punish him; his fears and humility, however,
procured him his pardon, and he continued to
behave himself properly.

In the afternoon Captain Brisbane accompa-
nied me to the settlement. I had signified to
the Fuegians that we intended to visit them, and
they paddled home before us. We landed at a
convenient place, and were met by a party, who
conducted us te the town, which consisted of

FUEGIAN SETTLEMENT. £83

but afew wigwams, slightly constructed, and
containing a population of about sixty. -

The first circumstance that struck me was the
absence of the women and little children: it was
evident that on our approaching they had sent
them into the woods, and had lighted fires almost
all round the island. ' This appeared, in part, to
be an effusion of joy at our visit ; but it also seem-
ed to be an invitation to other Fuegians, as two -
Strange canoes came to us from the upper part
of the-sound. In one of the wigwams I saw a
sea-gull, perfectly tame, and jumping about,
which conveys an idea of their affection for the
lower animals. I had used the precaution of
having our boat at hand, and the crew armed,
which enabled us to mix among them without
fear.. On my expressing a desire for muscles,
they commenced roasting them for me, and vied
_ with each other in bringing me the best. The
old man whom I have mentioned as having stolen
4 young seal appeared here, and I gave him to
understand that he was forgiven. To amuse
and astonish them I killed two sea-gulis at one
discharge of my fowlingpiece, at which they
gazed with wonder, particularly the strangers 5
as I never allowed them to see me load the gun, -
but after firing always put the muzzle to my
mouth, at which they generally fled back, be-
lieving that I loaded it by speaking into it. I

| N 4

184 FUEGIAN SETTLEMENT.

thought it proper to hide from them the nature
and management of fire-arms, as they are often
found dangerous in the hands of barbarians.

Our people were mixing among them, singing-
and dancing, but on two of our crew wishing to.
go into the woods, the natives became uneasy
for their wives, and I was obliged to interfere..
This forbearance on our part did not, however,
- meet with a suitable return; for one of the Fue-
gians (mistaking the sex) behaved very strangely.
to a young man of our party, who with some
difficulty made his escape to the boat.

Our curiosity being satisfied, we bade them
farewell, and returned on board. :

I saw no case of sickness among these people 5 ;.
’ none lame, except one man who had the palsy.
As far as I had an opportunity to observe, the
proportion of women is about two-thirds that of
the men; and with respect to longevity, includ-
ing the women, they may be said to contain four
classes. The oldest, which were three men, by
their wrinkled appearance I judged to be from
50 to 60 years of age; the second class were
twenty-four individuals, about 40; the third, of
which there were twenty-seven, were from 20
to 30; and the rest, being youths, girls, and
children, were twenty-six; making the total
number of this tribe to consist of about eighty
persons.

' SET FIRE TO THE WOODS, 185

On the ist of January the Fuegians landed at
the head of the cove and set fire to the woods.
As the smoke, by the direction of the wind,
came right upon us, I ordered a musket to be
fired over their heads, to make them desist.
They paid no attention to this, but continued
kindling the woods, and as we were now almost
enveloped in smoke I was determined to check
them effectually, and therefore fired a great gun
shotted in such a direction as to be perfectly
clear of them, but so as to let them hear the
whistle of the shot. On hearing this and the
report of the gun, they ran precipitately to
their carfoes, and paddled home as fast as pos-
sible.

I was at a loss to know, in this instance, what
they meant by setting fire to the woods, as they
must have known that it would be troublesome
to us, and I considered it always as a signal of
friendship ; in the present case, however, it was
an actual annoyance, and was necessarily put a
stop to. |

The following morning the Fuegians came on
board without taking the smallest notice of the
guns that had been fired, and conducted them-
selves peaceably. - The brig being ready for sea,
at 10 we weighed, with the wind at west, and
proceeded to the Diego Ramirez, leaving the
Beaufoy at anchor. We continued under sail

186 _ VESSELS. SEPARATE.

off these Islands, till the 4th in the morning,
when we returned. The Fuegians, seeing us
approach, calculated on receiving supplies, and
hurried alongside. The vessel being under sail,
I was much afraid some of their canoes would be
upset, but they managed them surprisingly. We
must have had nearly the whole settlement about
us, together with some strangers, as I enumerated
eleven canoes, each containing not fewer thari
seven individuals. I made a signal tothe Beau-
foy for a boat, and Captain Brisbarie came on
board. He informed me that the natives had be-
haved themselves in a very orderly manner, and
that he had nothing to fear from being left alone
with them. Our business requiring that the
vessels should separate, I gave him his instruc-
tions, which were, to remain in the neighbour-
hood till the 20th, to proceed then to the Falk-
land Islands and South Georgia, and to rejoin
me in the month of March, on the coast of Pata-
gonia: but I particularly cautioned him not to
remain among the natives longer than he found
them friendly. Our final arrangements being
made, we took a last farewell of the natives,
who went to their canoes reluctantly, and we
proceeded to the eastward for the coast of Pa-
tagonia. I was afterwards glad to learn from
Captain Brisbane, that, during his stay, they
behaved in a quiet, friendly manner.

FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 187

The islands of Tierra del Fuego extend in
length about 360 miles, from east to west, along
the Straits of Magellan ; and in extreme breadth,
from north to south, about 160, from the straits to
the extremity of Cape Horn.

_ This tract of country, as far as my inform.
ation goes, contains a large population, par-
ticularly towards the shores of the Straits of
Magellan,

Most of those. islands are studded on the
sides with a small beach tree, about twenty-four
feet high, and eight or ten inches in diameter.
They grow so crooked, that a straight trunk more
than ten or twelve feet is rarely found. I built
a boat of this wood, however, which when sea-
soned, answered the purpose very well.

In the interior of the country several moun-.
tain tops appear constantly covered with snow,:
though I do not consider the highest to be more
than 3000 feet. -

The great length of day in the summer season
has an enlivening effect ; and, when the weather
is fine and the water smooth, the wildness of the.
scenery is quite romantic.

_ The volcano, which has been seen by several
persons, in passing Cape Horn, was not at this
time visible, but I picked up a quantity of vesi-
cular flaggy lava, which, no doubt, had been
ejected from it.

188 ‘CLIMATE.

Captain Basil Hall saw it in flame during his
passage round Cape Horn, in the year 1822, in
His Majesty’s ship Conway; and in 1820, when
on our first voyage, in the month of January, I
saw the sky much reddened over Tierra del
Fuego, which I supposed at the time was pro- .
duced by the volcano. The climate.of this re-
gion has been differently described by persons
who have passed through it, and I doubt not
but they have been respectively correct, inas-
much as they have framed their report from the
circumstances of weather at each particular time.
The fact is, that much depends on the direction
of the wind; since, in the middle of summer,
when it blows strong at south, proceeding from
the icy land of Shetland, the thermometer will
often stand so low as 38°; and, with the wind
from the opposite quarter, the weather is fre-
quently. almost as fine as that of summer in
England.

I saw no quadrupeds, except dogs and otters,
nor do I think there are any others to the south
of the Straits of Magellan.

In conclusion of what I have to remark,
regarding these Fuegians, I may say, I never
saw men whose minds were so unimproved ;
and though they may possibly be defective
in mental organisation, as has been assert-
ed by some, yet there is little doubt, - from

MENTAL CAPACITY, 189

their tractableriess, that their condition might
be easily alleviated. This would be the opinion
of the philanthropic author of the following
remark: ‘ Any general character, from the best
to the worst, from the most ignorant to the most
enlightened, may be given to any community,
even to the world at large, by the application
of proper means, which means are to a great
extent at the command, and under the control,
of those who have influence in the affairs of
men.” | | -

Few voyagers, who have had intercourse with
these Fuegians, have been backward in pronounc-
ing them to be the most miserable among men,,.
and as not having mental capacity for instruc- .
tion, but without explaining the circumstances
which are, probably, the cause of their being so.
I have had an opportunity of seeing, that their
ignorance may be attributed principally to local
causes. |

It is not likely that any people, who have
ever enjoyed the advantage of improvements for
their better subsistence, will ever forget them.
Hence, it may be presumed, that the ancestors
of these tribes were in the same state of ignorant
imbecility as the present race, unless we may
suppose, that they were driven from the north
of the Straits of Magellan, and coming into.an
unprolific country, which did not afford the

190 EFFECT OF CLIMATE.

means of continuing their acquired arts, they
gradually ceased to remember them.

As few quadrupeds are found upon the islands
of Tierra del Fuego, the natives cannot depend
on hunting for their subsistence, and are con-
sequently obliged to have recourse to fishing.
This last occupation compels them to live on
the sea.coast, where the coldness and gloom of
@ protracted winter seems to check all mental
improvement.

The inclemency of the climate, too, seems to
produce upon these people a degree of inac-
tivity, which, together with the inconveniency
of moving from place to place, from the na-
ture of the country, may produce their dimi-
nutive stature; for, if they originally migrated
from the north of the Straits of Magellan, they
must have been a more athletic race of men:
the climate and the peculiarities of their situ-
ation have now, probably, exercised all their
rigorous effects upon the inhabitants, and they
have arrived at a stationary character. Had
they been so circumstanced as to procure a
subsistence by hunting, their bodies would,
without doubt, have been more vigorous, and
their minds, probably, not inferior to those of
other savage tribes.

Nature has been bountiful in providing a
most inexhaustible supply of’ shell-fish, upon

ON THE FUEGIAN CHARACTER. . 191

which they principally live; and they are pro-
cured with so little trouble, that no ideas are
required which can improve the reasoning facul-
ties. No patience or perseverance is necessary,
like that exercised by savages, who, in hunting,
have to employ reason superior to the instinc-
tive cunning of the animals they pursue. The
Fuegians’ food lies on the shores of different
islands, and their journies are all performed in
the canoe; so that being cramped in sitting, their
legs are ill formed, and the females, who are the
keepers of the canoe, from that circumstance,
are worse shaped in the lower extremities than
the men. ;

The rugged and mountainous country of
Tierra del Fuego, which faces the south, offers
no inducement to agriculture, nor indeed does
it admit of it; but, towards the N.E. of these
islands, the land is more inviting, and the cli-
mate better.

I have only now to recommend these people,
- in whom I have taken a lively interest, to the
philanthropic part of the world, as presenting
an untouched field for their exertions to amelio-
rate the condition of their fellow men.

True humane and religious charity is best be-
stowed on those who most need our help, and are
willing to receive it; and this is certainly the

192 DESTITUTION OF THE FUEGIANS,.

case with these Fuegians, who, of all uncivilised
tribes with whom we are acquainted, seem most
destitute of every thing which tends to rouse
the human mind to exertion.

193

CHAP. VII.

OFF CAPE HORN. — TIERRA DEL FUEGO. — TIDES: NATIVES.
-— THE RIVER GALLEGOS VISITED; AND THE SANTA CRUZ
——- PRODUCE OF THE COAST. — SEA LIONS. — PATAGONIA.
STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. — EARLY DISCOVERERS. — STA-
TURE OF THE INHABITANTS; THEIR MANNERS, &C. —
ATTEMPTS DURING THE REIGN OF CHARLES II. TO OPEN
COMMUNICATIONS WITH THEM. -— SOUTH AMERICAN
COASTS. —— MONTE VIDEO. — INHABITANTS. -—— SPANISH
PUBLIC DINNER. -— PRICES OF HORSES AND BULLOCKS.
— HARBOUR DANGEROUS. -—= SAIL FOR ENGLAND. —
ARRIVAL. OFF FALMOUTH.

WE stood to the N.E. with the wind from S.E.
by:S., and on the 7th in the afternoon we were
off Barnavelt’s Island, near Cape Horn, and I
‘sent.a boat on shore. Nothing but a little grass
grows on the island, and around it lie several
small islets. The latitude from my observation
at noon, when within five miles and a half of the
island, gave for its centre 55° 48’ 16”, and lon-
gitude by chronometers 66° 39’. The wind
continued from the S.E., and at day-light we saw
the land in the N.N.W., but, by reason of the
weather being foggy, we could not perceive the
entrance of Straits Le Maire. We, however, stood
on, and at nine A.M. the fog clearing away, I
found we were actually in the straits,- with the
i)

194 | TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

western point of Staten Land bearing E. by N.
I have annexed a view of the land of Tierra del
Fuego, on the western side of the straits, which,
while that side only is seen, presents a gap or
valley : which, being below the horizon, might
be taken by a stranger for the southern entrance
of the straits, thus creating a mistake, in foggy
weather particularly, which would lead the vessel
_ inte danger.

_’ ¥n the forenoon we saw some whales. close i in
. shere, and the boats. were sent in pursuit. . We
stood with the vessel ‘within four or five miles off
the shore of Tierra del Fuego, and sounded in a
depth of '75 fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand.
I had desired the chief mate, who was in one ef
the boats, to examine the state of the tide on
the shore, and we remained lying to, with the
wind at S.S.E. and S.E., from eleven o’clock till
one, when the boats returned, without having
succeeded in capturing any of the whales. We
had, during this period, drifted to the southward
against a fresh breeze, and the mate informed
me, that the tide had been falling rapidly during
the time they had been away, and that when they
left the beach it was about low water. We stood
into Success Bay, and about two o’clock the tide
changed, and swept us violently to the north-
ward, which must have been the tide of flood ;
and hence, by calculation, high-water, at the full

THE FLOOD: NATIVES. 195

and change of the moon, will take piace ¢ at two
o’clock.

- The flood has always been supposed ‘to run to
the southward through the straits, but according
to the circumstances I have described, I am led
to‘believe it runs to the northward ; though pro
bably its continuing to run to the northward
through the straits some time after high water by
the shore, may have led to erroneous conclusions
in that respect.

Before we got out of the bay, the Fuegians of
these straits came down to the sea-side, and
shouted at the full stretch of their lungs, inviting
us to land; but as the wind was fair, and night
approaching, we could not spare time to comply
with their wish. I was sorry it was not conve-
nient to have communication with this tribe, :as
it was in this bay, in the year 1769, that Captam
Cook visited the inhabitants ; and it would have
been agreeable to have ascertained whether, from
his intercourse with them, they had derived per-
manent improvement, though his stay amongst
them was too short to produce any great. result.

’ Off Cape Saint Diego is a heavy tide-rip when.
the wind is strong, and at those times it is better.
to avoid passing through it. We stood to the
northward, across the entrance of the Straits ef.
Magellan, and on the north side the land ap-
pears comparatively low, and fit for agriculture.» _

0 2

196 .THE RIVER GALLEGOS.

....We coasted Patagonia to the northward,: pur-
suing our business of examining the shores for
fur seals,. and taking black whales, as oppor-
tunities permitted; and on the {3th, having
Sought in vain for the river Gallegos, we came
to an anchor in eight fathoms water, .at the
distance. of about five miles from the land.

_. Being in the. latitude in which this river is re-
- presented. on the chart of Malespina, I landed to
examine the shore, supposing that the. entrance
might: be.land-locked in such a way ‘that it.could
“mot be seen at: any. distance from the shore. I
had walked four or five miles along the beach to
_ the’southward, without discovering the object of
my.search, and was returning, when by accident
looking over a bank, the situation of the sought-
for river appeared, though with very little water
in it. This mound was four or five feet above
the level of the sea at high water. I have
little doubt but the river was open at the time
Malespina gave it a name,. and. must since that
period, 1790, have been nearly dried up, by the
waters having been diverted from. the original
course, and the. sea having rolled in the bank
into its entrance ;.or that.at the time the river
was discovered, there was in the mouth of it a
bar or bank, which did not then appear above
water ;.and that the sea has since receded on
the eastern coast of Patagonia, leaving the bank

a

SANTA CRUZ. : 197

dry.: Which of these maybe ‘the fact is not
easy to decide; perhaps ‘both the causes men-
tioned may have contributed. to the change.

On the 14th, in the afternoon, the wind
freshened to a-brisk gale,.and we allowed the
vessel to drive with the anchor on the ground,
nearly in the direction of the coast: .at dark we
hove the anchor up, and lay to.. The’ weather
proved tolerably fine, and- the winds were vari-

able, often light from the S.E., and we occa-.
sionally anchored to facilitate our operations. .

_ On the 24th we put into the river of Santa Cruz,
for. the purpose of making some alteration on the
hold, and converting some blubber into oil. The
entrance of this river cannot be seen at a great
distance, as the land which lies behind covers it.
I have given ‘a view of the coast, and:a' sketch of .
the river. The shore on the left side going ia
is ‘high, whilst that on the right is quite low.
The latitude of the entrance is 50° 1%7:16%:S.,
and longitude 68° 14’ 30” W. " Directions for
sailing into it are added-in the Appendix.

About seven miles from the entrance the Santa
Cruz falls into two branches, the one running to
the S.W., the other tothe N.W. The northern,
which is by much the smallest, I penetrated about
twelve miles, which was very near its source, as_
the water was quite fresh, and the stream. became
a mere brook.. That branch which runs. to the

03

198 PRODUCE OF THE COAST. —

N.W. is, from its appearance, of some extent; _
and:I should not wonder if it communicates with
some branch from the Straits of Magellan, as the
water at our anchorage, at the lowest tides,
never ran fresh. The N.W. river being very
shallow, the procuring of good water is attended
with some delay, as it must be taken at the end
of the ebb of the tide, when there is not depth
enough to float a loaded boat, and you must
therefore wait the following flood.

No large wood is found in the neighbourhood
of this river. On the eastern shore are many
bushes bearing a small black berry, little less
than .a sloe, which when ripe is pleasant to
the taste, and highly beneficial as an antiscor-
butic, of which we took advantage, and eat great
quantities of them. I saw no traces of inhabit-
ants where I landed, nor land animals, except
guanacoes, of which there were many, but too
timid to allow us to approach within musket-
shot. Nearly in the middle of the main river is
an island, which is called Sea Lion Island, from
a number of those animals residing on it. This
amphibious creature, of the seal genus, is most
properly denominated the Sea Lion, from its
. similarity to that quadruped. The face is not
unlike that of a lion; but in particular, a long
mane, and the bold and fierce front which it pre-
sents, when standing on its fore flippers, bear a

SEA LIONS. PATAGONIA. 199

near resemblance to the appearance of that ani
mal. <A full grown sea lion measures eleven feet
from the tip of the nose to the extremity of the
tail, and eight feet in circumference; and differs
‘from the ursine seal only in the peculiarities I
have mentioned. They may, indeed, be con-
sidered as belonging to a class of monsters of
the seal species, They resist their assailants
with great ferocity, but their capture is-easily .
accomplished by shooting them in the forehead.

The rise of the tide is so great in this river,
being thirty-two feet, that the keel of the largest
ship may be examined, by laying her on the
ground; and there is sufficient water on the bar
of the river at two-thirds flood of spring tides for
a ship of the line. This circumstance might afford
great convenience toa vessel requiring repairs in
the bottom. The tide flows on the full and change
of the moon at forty minutes past eight in the
morning, and the ebb runs four miles an hour.

We had passed three times in and out of this
river by the 17th of February, when we took our
departure for the Falkland Islands.

Little is yet known of the portion of America
south of the latitude of 42 degrees, generally
described by the name of Patagonia. ‘That part
of the country which lies on the western side of
the Andes, towards the Island of Chiloe, has been
colonized by the Spaniards, and is better. known.

oO 4

200. PATAGONIA.

As.I have seen much of. the coast of Patagonia;
and have obtained some information from others —
concerning the country, and its inhabitants, I
shall give a brief account of it.

The tract of country alluded to is bounded on"
the south by the Straits of Magellan, discovered -
in the year 1519, by Fernando Magalhaen, and
called by us the Straits of Magellan, in the lati-
tude of from 52 to 54 degrees south.

This passage to the Pacific Ocean was -consi-
dered of great importance by the Spaniards, as
they at first believed it to be the only way, sail-
‘ing westward, to their valuable Peruvian posses-
sions, and to.the Phillippine Islands. . These
considerations induced them to. make a settle-
ment in the Straits, probably with a view of com-
manding the passage, to the exclusion of
foreigners, and to facilitate the navigation to
their own ships.

‘They chose, in 1581, a situation on the Pata-
gonian side, about 120 miles from the eastern
entrance of the Straits, and built a town, which
they named Philippville, after the then reigning
king. of. Spain.

The inviting riches of Peru, Mexico, and the
West Indies, however, engrossed all spirit of en-
terprise, and all attention, so that the settlement
of Phillippville became neglected, and in 1587,
having existed but seven years, its inhabitants,

PATAGONIA. 201...

whio:.at the beginning: were 400,. were reduced’.
by famine, to a:single individual, of the name -
of: Hernando.

The distinguished navigator, Cavendish, ar- .
rived at this place in the year 1587, and found
this unhappy man, the only one reserved to tell:
the painful: story of the fate of his unfortunate
companions. Cavendish took him on board, and. .
to perpetuate the melancholy history of the spot.
he called it Port Famine.

From the report given of the enchanting beaux
ties of this place by Commodore Byron, we may
suppose that there was a want of industry on the
part of the inhabitants, as well as of neglect in -
the government of Spain, in not sending supplies
till: the: lands could be -cultivated, - and. grain
brought to maturity.

Commodore Byron, having anchored in Port :
Famine in the year 1764, says, ‘ The. next day
at noon, having had little wind, and calms, we
anchored in Port Famine, close to the shore, and
found our situation very safe and convenient ;
we had shelter from all winds. except the south
east, which seldom blows ; and if a ship should
be driven ashore in the bottom. of the bay, she
could receive no damage, for: it is all fine soft
ground. We found drift wood here, sufficient
to have furnished a thousand sail, so that we. had
no need to take the trouble of cutting green.

202 -PATAGONIA.

The water of Ledger River is excellent, but the
boats cannot get in till. about two hours flood,
because at low water, it is very shallow for about
three quarters of a mile. I went up it about four.
miles in my boat, and the fallen trees then ren-
dered it impossible to go farther ; I found it, in-
deed, not only difficult, but dangerous, to get up
thus far. The stream is very rapid, and many .
stumps of trees lie hidden under it ; one of these
made its way through the bottom of my boat,
and. in an instant she was full of water. We got
on shore as well as we could; and afterwards,
with great difficulty, hauled her upon the side of
the river: here we contrived to stop the hole.
in her bottom, so as that we made a shift to get
her down to the river’s mouth, where she was
soon properly repaired by the carpenter. On
each side of this river there are the finest trees
I ever saw, and I make no doubt but that they
would supply the British navy with the finest
masts in the world. Some of them are of a great
height, and more than eight feet in diameter,
which is proportionably more than eight yards in
circumference, so that four men, joining hand in
hand, could not compass them. Among others,
we found the pepper tree, or winter’s bark, in
great plenty. Among these woods, notwith-
standing the coldness of the climate, there are
innumerable parrots, and other birds of the most

PATAGONIA. 203

beautiful plumage. I shot, every day, geese and
ducks enough to serve my own table, and several
others, and every body on board might have done
the same: we had, indéed, great plenty of fresh
provisions of all kinds, for we caught as much
fish every day as served the companies of both
ships. As I was much on shore here, I tracked
many wild beasts in the sand, but never saw one:
we also found many huts, or wigwams, but never
met with an Indian. The country betweén this
fort, and Cape Forward, which is distant about
four leagues, is extremely fine ; the soil-appears
to be very good, and there are no less than three
pretty large rivers, ‘besides several brooks..”’
The terminating point of this continent ap-
pears. to have been discovered by two Hol-
landers, Jacob Maire, of Amsterdam, and Cor-
nelius Schouten, of Hoorn, in the year. 1516.
The stcaits known by the name of Le Maire —
were called after the first mentioned navigator ;
and Horn, the present name of the Cape, is a
corruption of Hoorn, the name of the city in
Holland, of which Cornelius Schouten was a na-
tive. The discovery made by these intrepid men
opened a new way into the Pacific, which took
away much from the importance of the Straits
of Magellan, and they: have,. i consequence,
since that time been little frequented. The enor-
mous stature of the Patagonians, as described
by some navigators, who have passed through

204 PATAGONIANS.

the Straits, is a matter worthy of consideration,
since I find the subject spoken of by reput-
able authors with much uncertainty: this in-
duces me to lay before the reader what inform-
ation I have been able to obtain respecting this
doubtful circumstance. |

I have received particular’ accounts of the
Patagonians residing in the Straits, from persons
of veracity, who have lately passed through
them ; and the natives are described as being of
ordinary stature, from five feet’ five inches (the
stature of the Fuegians, from: whom they are but
little different), to six feet. From the circum-
stance of the land on the Patagonian side of the
Straits being more temperate, and less mountain-
ous than that of Tierra del Fuego, those who
live on that side take more land exercise, and are
somewhat more robust, better clothed, and live
together in larger tribes.

These people, it should be remembered, are
the inhabitants of the Straits only ; in the interior
of this country, which is of vast extent, there
may be men of Goliah-like stature; but we can
scarcely suppose them of the size described by a
gentleman who was on shore with Commodore
Byron, at his interview with the Patagonians, in
the Straits of Magellan. (Vide Byron’s Voyage,
vol. ii. pages 826—7.) ‘This officer says, that
*‘ when they were ten or twelve leagues within
the Straits, they saw, through their glasses, many

. PATAGONIANS. ‘205

‘people.on shore of a prodigious size, which ex.
traordinary. magnitude-.they thought: to be a de-
ception, occasioned by the haziness of the atmo-
sphere, it being then somewhat foggy ; but on
coming near the land, they appeared of :still
greater bulk, and made amicable signs to our
people to. come on shore. . That:when the ship
sailed on, to find a proper place of landing, they
made lamentations, as if they were afraid our
people were going off.” |
He also says, ‘ there were near four hundred
of them, and about one-third of the men on
horses, not much larger than ours ; and that they
rode with their knees up the. horses’ withers,
having no stirrups; that there were women, and
many children, whom some of our people took
‘up in their arms and kissed, which the Indians
beheld. with much seeming satisfaction. . That
" by way of affection and esteem they. took his
hand between theirs, and patted it; and that
‘some of: those he saw were ten feet high, - well
proportioned, and well featured : their skins were
of a warm copper colour, and they had neither
- offensive nor defensive weapons.”’ He also says,
that ‘they seemed particularly pleased with Lieut.
Cumming, on account of his stature, he being
six feet two inches high, and that some of them
patted him on the shoulders, but their hands fell
--w.ith such force that it affected his whole frame.”

206 PATAGONIANS.

I have hinted in another place, that those with
whom Commodore Byron. communicated were
probably chiefs; but it is more than probable
that this tribe, of whatever size, were not inhabit-
ants of the shore, but of the interior, and from
the country farther to the northward, and of
course seldom, perhaps never, on the shores of
the Straits when any vessels touched there sitice
that time.

Patagonians farther to the northward some-
times come down in the summer season, and have
been seen by my officers, who described them
to be generally about six feet high, well propor-
tioned, and appearing, upon the whole, above .
the ordinary size. Unlike the Fuegians, they
are fond of spirituous liquors; but they resemble
them in being fond of toys, and every kind of
hardware. My chief mate in our first voyage, in
1819, about the Bay of Saint Mathias, bought ~
a young guanacoe, from a Patagonian, for an
old knife. He described this man to be of
middle stature, and good looking: he came up
to the boat’s crew on horseback, with great con-
fidence; alighted, and showed the officer that he
had taken the animal with a sling.

From the necessity of my remaining on board
while under sail, on the coast, I had not oppor-
tunities of ascertaining any thing in particular of
the native habits, which are no doubt materially

PATAGONIANS. 207

different from those of the tribes in the neighbour-
‘heed of Buenos Ayres, who, by intercourse with
the Spaniards, have become somewhat assimilated
+o European manners.

I am, upon the whole, fully of opinion, that no
men, of the prodigious stature described by Com-
modore Byron, ever appear now on the sea coast,
whatever giants there may be in the interior of
the country. Port Desire, and the Bay of St. Jo-
seph, are places at which tribes of Patagonians
have been seen by gentlemen of my acquaint-
ance, whose description of the natives accords
with what I have stated respecting those seen by
my officers. The extent of country inhabited
by the native Patagonians only, which lies to the
south of the river Negro (on which there is a set-
tlement of a few Spaniards), may be estimated at

+ 77@-miles in length, and 300 in breadth, or
232,200 square miles. |

A knowledge of what this extent of country
affords, of inhabitants, and commercial produce,
particularly on the eastern part of the Andes,
would be very desirable, as an advantageous

, traffic might possibly be opened with the natives,
who may be more’ numerous than is supposed.

-. Commodore Anson informs us, that King Charles
the Second was of opinion that a country
contiguous to a region containing such store of
gold and silver as Chili, was worthy of being

Induced by these Konsidersiots he: serie’ tit

Sir John Narborough, to’ open: ‘cotttiiunication
with the Patagonians, and to’astertaiti ‘the valfte
of their possessions. However, itappears that he
did not effect either. ‘Commodore Anson says,
(Voyage, -p. 93.) « It‘is true that Sir John Nar-

’ borough did not succeed in opening this com-
~metce,”which fu’ appearance promised so many
‘ddvantages to this nation. - However, ‘his disap-
~ Poilitmeht was nierély accidental, and his trans-
‘ations upon ‘that vast, besides the many valu-
‘able’ improvements‘he furnished to geography
and navigation, are rather an encouragement for
‘fature- trials of: this kind, than any objection

against’ them; ‘his principal misfortune being -

the losing company of a small bark, which .at-
tended him, and having sonie of his people tre-
panned at Baldivia.”

However, it appeared: by the precautions. vand
the fears of the Spaniards, that they were fully
convinced of: the practicability of the scheme
he was sent to execute, - and extremely alarmed
at the apprehensions ofits consequences.

It is said that his majesty King Charles ‘II.
was so prepossessed with hopes of the advan-
tages which would redound from this expedition,

13

SOUTH AMERICAN COASTS. 209

, and 80 eager to be informed of the eyent of it, -

that hearing intelligence of Sir John Narborough’s
‘passing through the Downs, on his return, he had
not patience to attend his arrival at court, but
went himself in his barge to Gravesend to meet
him.” |

_ The coasts of South America are of a different
description. The western coast is rocky, high,
and rugged, containing many islands, with deep
water close to the shores. 7

The eastern falls into many deep and fine
bays, with beaches reaching nearly the whole:
length of the line; and the water deepens so
gradually, that at the distance of 100 miles from
land, there is not more than a sounding of
. seventy fathoms.

The shores, which present a pleasing irregu-
larity of height, consist of a soil of brown mould,
something resembling fuller’s earth, and impreg-.
nated with saltpetre. |

In many places ‘on the coast where I have
walked inland a few miles, I have found the
ground richly clothed with grass, and the interior _
country presenting a beautiful irregularity of
surface. No trees are seen near the sea from
the river of Plate tothe shores of the Straits of
Magellan, where, however, they are abundant.
_ Farther inland, however, it is likely that there are
trees, as on the western side of the Andes, in the

P

210 THE POLE-CAT AND THE JAGUAR.

latitude of 45° the woods are almost impervious.”
To the north of the river Negro, the country
bécomes level, with rich pasture, on which
great numbers’ of horses and bullocks run wild.

The anitnal called the pdéle-cat was seen by
my crew on the coast, and one of them indeed
émitted the abominable liquid into his eyes, which
they are accustomed to do in the way of defence:
- and judging by the noise he made, it must have
caused him great pain.

The American tiger, called by the Spaniards
jaguar, is often seen on the coast. They have
been known to wander around a boat turned
bottom up on shore, with the crew lying under-
neath, and to depart without showing any vora-
cious inclination after prey.

The rivers in this country are not inconsider-
able, and are conveniently spread along the
coast, from latitude 39° 50’; six may be enumer-
ated —the river St. Joseph; Colorado, or Red
River ; River Negro, or Black River ; Port De-
sire; Port St. Julian; and SS‘. Cruz. The
_ four last mentioned afford anchorage, two of
them for large vessels, which renders this country
highly valuable. Having thus given what in-
formation I have by my own observations been
able to procure regarding these parts and their
inhabitants, as also statements made to me by
gentlemen of veracity, I shall dismiss the sub-

PASSAGE TO THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 911

ject, and return to our passage to the Falkland
Islands.

We continued within view of land till the
21st, when in the evening, and about to lose
sight of the coast, Coy Bay bore S.S.W. distant
about five leagues. During our passage to the
Falkland Islands, we had fresh gales between
S.S.W. and N.N.W. with an irregular sea, and
on the 25th, at six o’clock in the morning, with
the wind at west, and the weather hazy, we saw
Cape Meredith, bearing N.N.E., about three
leagues; and at two P.M., wecame to an anchor in
Robertson’s Bay, in seven fathoms water. Hav-
ing examined the southern shores for the fur-
seal, on the 28th the wind being at N.E. and the
weather favourable, we weighed, and proceeded
to New Island, which we reached on the 2d of
March, and at two P.M. anchored in Ship Har-
bour, in seven fathoms water. Having observed
smoke on the north end of the island as we ap-
proached, I thought it might probably be in-
tended by some shipwrecked people as a signal
of distress; but it turned out to be only the
burning of some tussuck, which had been ignited
some months before.

On the 6th having completed our sea-store of
water, and taken a quantity of peat on board for
fuel, we weighed, and the same day anchored in
West Point.Harbour. On the 12th we. pro-

pP@ |

212 SPANISH SHIPS OF WAR

ceeded to Port Egmont, and anchored off the
ruins in nine fathoms water.

- On the 15th, in the morning, I was surprised
to see a line of battle ship and a sloop of war
coming round the Point. We presently ascer-—
tained by their colours that they were Spanish.
I hurried on board, and was politely received.
I pointed out the most. eligible anchorage; but
they chose to run a little beyond it, by which
they afterwards drove, and caused themselves a
great deal of trouble. The ship of the lme was
the Asia, of 70 guns. The brig was the Achilles,
of 20 guns.. They reported themselves from
Lima,. which I afterwards, from a number of con-
eurring: circumstances, discovered to be false.
My boat’s crew soon ascertained from the sailors,
some of whom spoke good English, that they
were but ten weeks from Cadiz; but the officers
still persisted in this story of being from Lima,
and I did not contradict it. ‘Their anxiety to
obtain information respecting the navigation of
Straits Le Maire, and round Cape Horn, was of
itself enough to satisfy me, that they were bound
that way.

The crew of this ship, I understood, including
their gunners or troops, was about 800 men ; and
the brig was manned with 150. They appeared
in all respects effective, and though they were
not so expeditious in their movements, as is the

AT PORT EGMONT. 213

practice in our navy, they were indefatigable:
and secure in their operations. Their crews
were sent on shore to ramble for the benefit of
their health ; and shooting parties soon killed
almost every bird in the neighbourhood. |

On the 16th, in a hard gale from the N.W. the
Asia drove to a distance of about two miles from
the landing place. In the morning of the 17th
it moderated, and her boats went on shore, but
a very hard gale coming on, they were unable to
getoff,

Being engaged by the officers to dine on
board the Asia, and having two of them on board
the Jane with me, I took the opportunity of
showing them that our boats could go against a
gale, and accordingly manned a fine whale-boat
with stout men, and rowed on board with appa-
rent ease.

In looking over their charts, I observed the
Auroras laid down, and informed them that no
such places existed. Of this they would not be
convinced, insisting that the Spanish ship of
war Atrevida settled their situation in the year
1796, as I have before mentioned. The Com.
modore supplied us with some naval stores of:
which we were much in want, and I sent a quan-
tity of oil in return. He appeared to be about
the age of fifty, and seemed to possess a thorough

knowledge of the executive duties of a ship,
| P 3

Q14 PASSAGE TO PATAGONIA.

even to the minutest operations, as I observed
him correct a sailor in the passing a seizing
round the fore-stay. He politely invited me to
dine with him, and honoured me by particularly
noticing the hazardous voyage we had performed,
with other marks of respect, which evinced a
disposition to favour and promote enterprise.

I took:an opportunity of waiting upon the
commander of the brig, who, from having been
some time a prisoner in England, spoke very good
English. He took me through the mess-deck
of the ship, and’ I was surprised ‘to see how or-
derly every thing appeared; in short, she was
little different, as to the internal arrangement,
from our own sloops of war. I presume this
officer had noticed the system observed in our
navy, and had established it in his own vessel.

On the 19th the wind being southerly, and
the weather settled, we weighed, and proceeded
again towards the coast of Patagonia. During
our passage, we had strong gales from the south-
ward, in which we lost two boats from the quar-
ters. We ran under a close-reefed maintop-sail,
and though from not steering well some risk was
incurred, we continued to scud before the wind.
I had an instance of the danger of scudding too
fong during my passage home in my first voy-
age, in the year. 1822. Being in the Bay of
Biscay, in the month of March, at midnight,

18

SHIP LAID .ON HER BROADSIDE. 15

‘with the wind at west blowing a heavy gale;
we were running under a close-reefed maintop-
sail and foretop-mast staysail, and two men were
at the wheel, one of whom was considered an
excellent helmsman. I was standing on deck,
when the wind freshened, and the night became
so dark, that only the foam of the sea was visi-
ble. The man at the helm, by some misman-
agement, put it the wrong way, and the ship
flew to the wind with such rapidity as laid
her on her broadside. Two sailors, stationed at
the maintop-sail sheets, at my desire let them
go, and I hastened to the helm, and lashed it a
weather, though, from the ship lying on her side,
very little of the rudder remained in the water.
The foretop-mast staysail fortunately being new,
did not give way, and in about three minutes,
every moment of which I expected would com-
plete our ruin, the ship veered, and as the wind
drew aft she righted, and we presently hove
to. - a |

In our passage to Patagonia, however, nothing
more serious happened than losing our boats ;
and on the 238d we made the coast off Point
Lobos, in the latitude of 44°, the rendezvous
appointed for our meeting with the Beaufoy;
but not finding her, I concluded that the strong
southerly winds had driven her to the northward,
and that she had, in consequence, proceeded

pd -

216 MONTE VIDEO.

home. We ran close along the coast to the
northward; and on the 3d of April, having
sprung a leak, and being in the mouth of the river
of Plate, we put into Monte Video.

My necessities were politely attended to here
by the house of Stewart M‘Call and Co., of
which James Noble, Esq. is executive partner ;
and I made application to the British Consul,
T. S. Hood, Esq., for a survey to be held on the
Jane, to ascertain her defects. Sir Murray Max-
well, commodore on that station, and in com-
mand of the Briton: frigate, having heard of the
arrival of the ships of war at the Falkland
Islands, requested to see me. I waited on him,
and described them to be Spanish, which did
away with a conjecture of their being French in
the character of Spaniards, as some jinesse of that
kind was possible ; and as several French ships of
war were in these seas, their movements were
narrowly watched.

Mr. Hood, the British Consul, gave the ne-
cessary instructions for the survey, which being
made, the requisite repairs were entered upon ;
and by the favour of Sir Murray Maxwell in send-
ing me the assistance of carpenters from His Ma-
jesty’s ship Briton, our defects were soon made
good, and by the 4th of May, we were ready
for sea.

Monte Video, a place generally known, is a

MONTE VIDEO. 217

walled city,: situated. on the north shore of the.
river of Plate, about seventy miles from its en-
trance. This city was taken in 1823, from the

Portuguese royalists, bythe Brazilian imperialists,

who now possess it.. The present military Go-
vernor-general, Le. Core, seems to be a person
well calculated for improving the circumstances
of the country; but the experience of frequent
invasions and revolutions within the last twenty
years prevents the inhabitants from attending to
any thing that cannot be quickly turned into

money: hence it is, that houses on magnificent
plans are left unfinished ; and many, for several
miles without the walls, are allowed to remain
in a state of ruin, caused by the desolation of
war. Many of the streets are so broken up as to
be almost impassable. The whole together, at
this time, presents the accumulated wreck of a
series of years, agitated by almost perpetual civil

and foreign contests. The rich, as may be ex-_
pected, live in ease and authority, without, how-
ever, being offensively proud, or cruelly severe, as
masters. ‘The labouring class of people are not
remarkable for industry, being rather addicted to
idleness and inebriety; foreign labourers more
particularly. Three days’ work in the week, on —
account of the cheapness of provisions, is suffi-
cient to support them during the other four days
in riot and dissipation ; and there is scarcely any

218 THE LADIES OF MONTE VIDEO.

European, however industrious he may be at his
arrival, who does not fall into this course of idle-
ness. | |
The guachos, or countrymen, who come occay
sionally into town, are people of tall stature, with
ruddy complexions. They are not considered
the most honest class of men; and they have,
perhaps, committed more assassinations than any
other. 7 _

The ladies of Monte Video are generally some-
what below the middle stature, and inclined to
be lusty. ‘The custom of wearing small shoes, I
presume, has made them clumsy about the feet ;
but the beauty of their faces amply compensates
for that deformity. The contour of their coun-
tenances is what may be called Grecian, with
complexions sallow enough to take off the cha-
racter of common-place ruddiness; and their
expressive black eyes, together with their simple
elegance and complacency of manner, does not
fail to render them interesting.

The priesthood of this place appear to be
dwindling in authority, and poverty is conspi-
cuous in their churches. That grandeur which
the internal structure of their sanctuaries used
to present in this quarter of the globe, is now
diminished almost to the bare walls.

The English merchants are a respectable body,
and lately a British consul has been appointed

KING’S BIRTH-DAY. 219

to attend to their interests. ‘These gentlemen
never omit celebrating the anniversary of His
Britannic Majesty’s birth-day with a public din-
ner. I was so fortunate at this time as to be of
the party at this annual feast. The company
sat down at six o’clock, about fifty in number.
Sir Murray Maxwell, the British Consul, and
several Spanish and Portuguese officers of high
rank, civil and military, were present. By eight
o’clock the cloth was removed, and. the health
of His Majesty, King George the Fourth, was _
drunk. To this the Portuguese band, who were
placed in the court-yard, struck up the air of
God save the King, and at the same moment the
Briton frigate discharged a quantity of rockets,
and fired a royal salute. The comcidence of
these feats, which had been previously well ar-
ranged, was so complete that the effect was ad-
mirable. The Portuguese band had been taught
the music of Rule Britannia, which they played
with great spirit; and the bumpers went round
to appropriate toasts. The Spanish gentlemen,
in order to manifest their total disregard of
worldly goods, began to break the plates and
glasses, as if they had been of no value. Every
toast was accompanied with a sacrifice of these
articles ; and one old Spaniard was remarkable
for rubbing two dessert plates together at every
bumper, and throwing them over his shoulder ;

230 A SPANISH

on which Sir Murray Maxwell facetiously re-
marked, that the word Plate (the name of the
river) must be derived from the table utensil .of
that name, from the evident pleasure that was
here taken in its destruction. As the evening ad-
vanced, the company fell off to their respective
homes, and I to mine.

A Spanish public dinner was also given during
my stay, to which I was invited by my friend,
Mr. Noble. ‘This feast exhibited a very different
figure to that I have described. The dinner
was given in celebration of the tranquil estab.
lishment of the new government.

We were to dine at the house of John Dios
de Solis, at the distance of about seven miles
from town; and, as few people here walk far
without the walls, a conveyance was provided,
such as by us is called a noddy, having but two
wheels, and being drawn by two horses a-breast,
on one of which rode the driver. In this vehicle
six of us were seated, and travelled at the risk
of being overturned a hundred times by the
badness of the roads. The country in this direc-
tion to the N.E. appeared to be in a-very broken
state, barren, and full of deep sand-holes. This,
however, being the only road by which a be-
sieging army could approach the town, this
part had suffered much by having been many
times occupied by the enemy.

PUBLIC DINNER. Q91-

_ About two o’clock, we arrived at the house of
our host, and found the company assembled, among’
whom we presently took our seats at the table,
which was continued through two rooms. ‘The
party consisted partly of patriot Spaniards, with’
some Americans, French, and Portuguese, alto-
gether about sixty in number. The dinner was
profusely abundant; but no dish appeared very
remarkable, except a large roast of beef with the
hide on. This mode of cooking has the effect
of retaining the juice of the meat, and from the
number who partook of it, it appeared to be a
favourite viand. The wine, of ‘which there was
variety, went merrily round during the entertain-
ment, and by the time the cloth was removed, the
organs of articulation had become so volatile,
that you could scarcely hear your next neigh-
bour. Some Spaniards, who were less clamo-
rous, amused themselves with shooting little
bread ‘balls at one another across the table, and
aiming at the face. This amusement was an
annoyance to me, but by my remaining neutral,
they allowed me to sit in peace. Their national
toasts were drunk in quick succession, but on
their vice-president proposing the toast of * Long
live King Ferdinand the Seventh,” nearly the
whole company dissented, and loaded him with
a torrent of abuse; to which he replied with
so.much acrimony, that the table of expected

La POLITI@\AL -BIFFRRERCES.

friendship~.and. “conviviality soon presented’ a
scane. of. the most inveterate warfare. The
vige-president prudently, however, sat in silence
for ‘a few. minutes, by which means order was
restored, and ‘the’ offended party yented their
tage on the wine, which in half an hour was
fast, becothing conqueror. Glasses and plates
flew to destruction, and, to crown the whole, an
agile Spaniard mounted . the table, making a
variety of antics, which so destroyed the eco-
nomy of. it, that np further hint was necessary
to advise us to depart, and we rose, got seated
in our noddy, and drove homewards. Thus
ended.the dinner, which in the whole had oc-
cupied. pot more than two hours and a half.

This company; as far'as I could understand,
were evidently much divided in politics: all pro-
bably were patriots, but so variously modified, as
to create a great difference of opinion ;— nor
can it be otherwise. The diversity of interest,:
with the frequent change of political sentiment,:
which a change of government induces, renders:
them fickle and inconsistent. The present code
of laws, however, gives the inhabitants more satis=
faction than any hitherto enacted: the murderer
cannot now, as formerly, escape death by the pay-:
ment of money, or by suffering a short imprison- :
ment ; and in other cases, the present governor is
rigidly careful to protect the pecuniary interests

PRICES OF HORSES AND BULLOCKS. 223

and personal safety of the citizens. These
amendments, with the firm establishment of the.
Brazilian government, promise fair to put an
end to the ravages of anarchy.

The exports of this place consist, principally,
of horses and bullocks, hides and horns. These
animals have much diminished in number within
the last fifteen years, or since the time that our
troops had possession of the place; and they
have consequently risen in price. A mound of
_ the bones of horses was shown me, which at the
time they were killed, about fifteen years ago,
were brought to the slaughter-house for two
shillings a head. <A good horse now costs two
pounds sterling. Bullocks are, no doubt, still
numerous in the interior, but in the neighbour-
‘hood of the city they are scarce. At this time,
a well fed bullock costs about eighteen dollars,
such as a dozen years ago was killed only for its
hide and tallow. Vegetables are exorbitantly
dear; and every thing else that the country pro-
duces is increased in price in a similar proportion.

As the late siege of Monte Video has been,
however, partly the cause of this diminution of
supplies, two or three years with a settled go-
vernment will do much in restoring the plenty
of former times.

Little need be said of' the harbour of Monte
Video, as it has been well described by former

284 . HARBOUR OF MONTE VIDEO.

visitors. I may-remark, however, that it affords
90: “ittle shelter ‘from south to west, and is so
shallow, having only. two fathoms at a mean
state, that there is. nothing commodious about it.
A. vessel drawing: twelve or thirteen feet
water is seldom ‘afloat in what may be called the
harbour, though the bottom is of mud, in which
a. vessel sits: without receiving damage; but
somptimes,. if lying’ atross the harbour when
the’ pamperos sets ‘in,’ it is caught by these
burricanes, which is, if not injurious, at least in-
convenient. 5
_. These winds, blowing from the south-west
over a plain nearly reaching the foot of the
Andes, acquire such force, that they fall into
the river of Plate‘and: harbour of Monte Video
with so great violence, that the best anchors and.
cables are requisite for the securing of ships.
The several dangerous shoals with which this
tiver is bedded, cause the navigation to Buenos.
Ayres to be attended with danger. Many com-
manders of ships, entering with a fair wind, are.
often induced to proceed without a pilot, and by
the time they have arrived in the vicinity of dan-
ger, the wind becomes contrary, and the weather
unsettled, and not being acquainted with the set
of the currents, they ground their ships. The
lapse of a short time frequently makes great al-
teration, in the facilities afforded to this pilot-

“

EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. . 925

ground. The buoys are often shifted or washed
away, and you are left without the guide of Jand-

marks. Banks have moved, and neither the

depth of the river, nor the set of the currents
are accurately known; all of which uncertainties
contribute to embarrass those even of long ex-
perience in this passage. During my stay of a

“month at Monte Video, two vessels were totally

lost in the river ; and one, a month or six weeks
before, was wrecked, with the loss of several
lives, in a manner truly distressing, as they died
on a raft, drifting with the direction of the wind

and current.

On the mount of Monte Video, the lantern,
which is nightly lighted, is so faint as scarcely
to be seen at the harbour anchorage: it is there-
fore of little use; but, if placed on the Island
of Flores, and properly attended to, it would be
a great guidance to ships passing up in dark
nights. English and American pilots are to be
had at Monte Video, but they get so little en-
couragement, that they never put to sea to look
out for ships.

The harbour of Maldonado would be conve-
nient for a rendezvous for pilots, being near the
fair way, and without all the banks.

_ Could captains be brought under an obligation

to take pilots, a system might be pursued similar

to that on our own coasts, and in other parts of
Q

226 = PILOT VESSELS RECOMMENDED.

the ‘world, by’ establishing two pilot vessels,
(schooners or cutters.of about 50 tons each,) to

off the mouth of the river, with ten or
twelve pilots on board.

Ihave given these hints for the benefit of in-
surers and others concerned in the trade to the
river Plate, to whom such an arrangement would
be most advantageous ; leaving it to themselyes
to devise how: it could be made obligatory on
captains to take the pilots. Were such a system
established, the constant employment and en-
couragement which would be thereby given to
the pilots, would enable them to reduce their
charges much below what they are at present.

On the 4th of May, with the wind at W. S.W.
we weiglied anchor,. and after waiting upon Sir
Murray Maxwell on board his own ship, we
made all possible sail to the eastward. We met
with the usual winds and weather on our passage
home, and in fifty-nine days from our sailing
from Monte Video arrived off Falmouth, before
the packet that sailed two days before us. We
made the Land’s End of England, after an ab-
sence of nearly two years.

POSTSCRIPT.

_eeeeeie

I am aware that many of the details in this
volume militate considerably against the prevail-
ing conjectures upon those regions of the earth
to which they refer, and interfere, in some
measure, with the statements of former navi-
gators; for this, if any apology be necessary, I
would rather make it here than to have inter-
rupted the work in its progress by frequent notes. —
And it seemed more becoming in one who has
hitherto had so little leisure for the profound
study of geographical literature, to confine him- —
self almost entirely to a simple account of what
came practically under his own observation,
waiting to be guided, should occasion require it,
hereafter, by the judgment of those, whose
province it is to mark the deficiencies of authors,
and point out what is really worthy of public
attention for its novelty or truth. |

Recent events in South America have con-
tributed to throw a certain degree of interest
over some of the matters mentioned by the au-
thor: the present state of Monte Video; the
surrender of the Asia man of war, and its consort,
to the Government of Mexico, need hardly be
particularised. |

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APPENDIX.

.28

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OBSERVATIONS

NAVIGATION ROUND CAPE HORN, &c.

Many commanders of ships, who have been successful
in making a passage round Cape Horn to the west-
ward, have treated with unmerited derision the accounts
given by Commodore Anson of this navigation. |

I am quite satisfied, from my own experience, that
the month of March might be productive of all the dis-
tresses described by the journalist. . Captain Porter,
who passed the Cape in the American frigate Essex, in
March, 1814, says, * Indeed our sufferings, short as
has been our passage, have been so great, that I would
advise those, bound into the pacific, never to attempt
the passage of Cape Horn, if they can get there by any
other route.” .

The difficulty, however, in making this passage is
removed by choosing the proper season, which, when
attended to, must at least save much time, and wear and
tear of the ship. In the beginning of November the
winds begin to draw from the northward, and continue

2392 THE NAVIGATION

to be frequent till about the middle of February, when
they shift into the south-west quarter; during these
months the westerly winds are not lasting, hence the
passage may be easily effected. From about the 20th
of February to the middle of May, the winds are gene-
rally between S.W. and N.W., and blow with great
violence. During this interval, no ship need expect to
make a passage round the Cape, that is not well equip-
ped in every respect. From the middle of May to the
end of June, the winds prevail from the eastward with
fine weather. During these six weeks, a vessel may
round the Cape in sight of the Diego Ramirez. In
July, August, September, and October, the winds pre-
vail again between S.W. and N.W.; but August and
September are more particularly. tempestuous. In re-
gard: to the route, which. ships should: take round the:
Cape, much depends on the season of the year, as re~.
lates to the force of the prevailing westerly winds. {.-
prefer, at all times, passing to the westward of the Falk-
land islands; and, in the summer season, to pass through:
Straits Le Maire, as it saves fifty or sixty miles of
westing, and can be attended with no risk if you have
sufficient daylight to see to.run back through the Straits,
in the event of being caught with a southerly gale at the
southern entrance.

Cape Horn lies from Cape Good Success 8.8. W. 4
W. distant thirty-one leagues. In this line lies Barna-
velt’s island. If intending to touch at an anchorage
about Cape Horn, a S. by W. } W. course through:
the night, will but well avoid the indraught which some-
times. sets to the N.W. among the islands, at the enr
trance of Nassau Straits: if not intending to go into:

_ ROUND CAPE HORN, ETC. . 238

harbour, a south course from Straits Le Maize to the
_ south of Cape Horn, edging to. the westward, and passing’.
the Diego Ramirez on the south side, at the distance of
a few miles, is the most advisable track. Ships working:
to the westward, off the Cape, in the summer season,
should stand towards the shore of Tierra del Fuego in.
the evening, when the wind will often be found to draw
from the northward off the land, and western. again in.
the morning.

These observations refer to the seasons I have reeom-
mended for passing the Cape, but during those months
which are attended with the most violent gales, viz.
March, August, and September; I have:only to recom-
mend the advice given by Commodore Anson, that of
‘standing to the southward, in the latitude of 60°, where
the sea is. more. regular, and the winds more.equaL. If,
however, a ship be making a coasting passage, andi
should require to anchor, the following instructions may |
be found useful. The prominent situation of Cape.
Horn at once points out the neighbouring bay of Saint
- Francis, in which are two harbours perfectly safe for
vessels of any draught of water. Their approach. is so
easy as to make it necessary only to remark,. that Wig-
wam Cove is the second. opening on the west side of the
bay,. and by steering along the western shore about N.
by E. it will be. easily found. | 7

On account of the violent gusts that blow. out of the
cove: in: westerly gales, a vessel had better anchor at the
entrance, whene is twenty-one fathoms water, and a
bottom, of sand and mud, and wait an opportunity of
kedging, into: the cove, till South Head: shuts in’ Cape

Horn, when the anchorage will be perfectly safe.

4 CSS; THE NAVIGATION

‘The second harbour in this bay is pointed out on the
chart by the:name of Maxwell's harbour. The entrance
is.on the north side, between Saddle Island and Jerdan’s
Island; bat-is so narrow, that with a contrary wind a
seecoel must anchor at the entrance, and kedge to her
besthywhich may be chosen at pleasure, every part being
‘perfectly secure. Here the water is so smooth that
repairs upon'a ship can be carried on with great con-
venience. Wood is abundant on the south side, and
water may be. obtained in several places.

In .proceeding-westward New Year’s Sound next pre-
sents itself. In this sound are several anchorages, but
Indian Cove may be considered the most commodious.
Indian Island stands at the mouth of the cove, and bears
from Sanderson’s Island at the entrance of the sound
‘W.N.W. sixteen miles. The anchorage in this cove

: ig at the upper end, in the south corner, in fourteen or
fifteen fathoms water, within three cables’ lengths of the
shore; in most other parts the ground is rocky, and the
water deep. The entrance not being more than three
fifths of a mile broad, a large vessel in working against a
strong S.W. wind, which blows out of the cove, would
require to be workell quickly to take advantage of the
flaws of wind that play about the entrance. The shoals
and spots of foul ground are indicated by kelp about them,
and'should consequently be avoided. At the entrance
of the cove, on the south side of Mid-channel, are two
patches; in the inner one is a depth of three fathoms,
and in the outer one eight. The tide flows on the full
and change of the moon at fifty minutes past three, and
rises about seven feet. Wood and water are abundant,"
and can be conveniently procured.

ROUND CAPE HORN, ETC. 235

Clear Bottom Bay is an anchorage which, by being
close to the coast, is convenient for a vessel to touch at
for wood and water: to sail into it from sea, bring the
east Il Defonsos S. 4 E., and steer N. 4 W. for Turn
Point. About a mile and a half to the E.N.E. of this
point is the anchorage, and at the distance of three
cables’ lengths from the shore, in twenty-two fathoms
water, in a bottom of sand and clay, is the most eligible
berth.

A peculiar shaped land, which I called Leading
Mountain, on the west side of Duff’s Bay, may be seen
from a distance of six or seven leagues at sea, and at
once points out the entrance of the bay. A view of this
mountain with the land adjacent is annexed.

The soundings round the Diego Ramirez are regular,
and at the distance of half a mile from the southern
island. On the east side is a depth of thirty fathoms,
with a bottom of fine green sand. ‘The tides here are
regular when the winds are moderate, and by the report
of my officers, who were several days on the island, it is
high water on the full and change of the moon at two
hours fifteen minutes, and rises about five feet. The
tide of flood, contrary to former reports, was observed
to run to the N.E., and it evidently runs to the eastward :
between many of the main islands. The currents, ‘or
those streams which are propelled by prevailing winds,
interfere so much with the natural tendency of the tide,
that great doubt is created in regard to the proper direc-
tion of it.

Staten Land affords several harbours; that of St.
John’s, on the north side, and near to the east end, is
the one with which I am best acquainted. By the view

236. THE NAVIGATION

of the land which I have subjoined, the entrance of the

harbour may easily be found. Slack tide is the proper

tizse to sail in, as at the entrance, which is narrow, the’
winds are so bafiling as to cause some risk when the
tide is running strong across the passage. The harbour
runs up'to the W.S. W. abont a mile and a quarter,. and:
the anchorage is at the upper end, in twelve fathoms, in

a muddy bottom; in most other parts, the depth is.

twenty fathoms, and rocky. There is a flat-extending.
from: the head of the harbour, a full cable’s. length,. in

which a small vessel might be laid for repaiss.

Wood and water are in great plenty, close:to.the shore.
The wood: is much of the same description as that found —
on Tierra del Fuego: none of it being large. enough. for
ship-building. At the east end of the island is a. very
heavy tide-rip,. and when the wind is strong it should:
be carefully avoided.

In sailing along the coast of Patagonia to the south»
ward of the river Santa Cruz, vessels should not run
within a depth of ten fathoms water, as in many places
extensive ledges of rocks lie more than a mile from the
shore.

The river of Santa Cruz does not appear from a great
distance at sea, but can of course be easily found by the
latitude. The meeting of the tides has thrown up a
bank about the entrance, on which at low water there is
but two fathoms and a quarter.

On the south point of the entrance lies a reef of rocks:
which appear at low water; and at the north side of the
fair way is a shoal, proceeding from the bar, which pro-
bably shifts.

ROUND CAPE HORN, ETC. 237

The leading mark into the river is a bluff in the mid-
dle of the entrance, bearing N.W. by W.4 W. by
compass. After passing the points of the entrance, two
indentations will be seen on the south shore, and in the
second one is the best anchorage, in five fathoms, in a
bottom of gravel and clay. All the north side of the
river is shoals, and much of it dries at low water. ‘The
tide of flood runs to the northward on the coast, and in
strong southerly winds continues to run two hours after
it is high water by the shore.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WINDS AND WEATHER.

The heaviest and most lasting gale that blows in the |
neighbourhood of Cape Horn is from south, occasion-
ally shifting a point or two each way. This gale I
have frequently known to come on in a squall, and con-
tinue in the tempestuous months to blow from thirty-
five to forty hours together. The southern horizon,
filled with rising clouds, heavy and white in a blue
sky, is a sure indication of a lasting gale, with snow
squalls. A complete calm generally follows this wind,
which, however, is not very frequent. The wind at
east invariably rises light, and gradually increases to
a strong breeze; but when it vears from E. to S.E., a
strong gale may generally be expected, with snow or
rain squalls.

A north gale also comes on gradually, and towards
the end, which is generally about thirty hours, it draws
from the N.W. and brings rain, and presently shifts
into the S.W. without ceasing: to blow, and continues

288. THE WINDS. AND WEATHER.

_ from that point twelve or fifteen hours. All gales are
of shorter daration in summer than in winter; and it
may be:remerked, thats vessel may anchor any where
for shelter from a S,W. wind, without the fear of its
shifting-to.the northward; but the contrary must be
guarded. against, as the wind shifts from N. W. to S.W.,
continuing to blow. with great violence.

In the most windy months N.W. gales blow with
great force, when they rise rapidly near that point, and
generally last twelve or fourteen hours. To the S.W.
of Cape Horn, they blow with less violence, but are
more'durable, In the summer season, the winds be-
tween S.W. and N.W. frequently blow in gusts of six

~ or eight -hours’ continuance, at the strength of a brisk
gale; it then becomes moderate, and the wind in-
clines to the northward.

In..the summer I have observed the coincidence of
fine weather, with light easterly winds at the time of
new moon, when in south declination, and at the time
of full moon, to blow strong from the northward. There
being many exceptions, however, to the natural action
of the wind, produced by localities, I have found it
impossible to systematise the indications of the winds
and weather satisfactorily. We must, therefore, rest
contented with an approximation to certainty in these
matters.

239

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OBSERVATIONS

ON

THE PROBABILITY OF REACHING

THE SOUTH POLE.

r 3

JAMES WEDDELL, R.N.

OBSERVATIONS
ON THE

STATE OF THE POLES.

Ty presenting to the public the following con-
siderations, relating to the probability of the
Polar Regions being open, I must necessarily
use the data upon which both the early and late
expeditions towards the North Pole have been
projected, as these must continue to be the
principal grounds of reasoning till the matter
shall be set at rest by actual observation.

Many arguments’ have been employed to
prove the open state of the Polar Regions,
since experimental investigations have been
effected, not only by Great Britain, but by
several other nations, during more than two
centuries, — |

T 4

280 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

The numerous unsuccessful attempts which
have been made to penetrate the Northern
Polar Region, do not by any means destroy the
assumption of the Poles being accessible, but
rather furnish new matter for further enquiry
into that part of geography. And the open
state of the Antarctic Sea, as described in my
Journal, naturally gives rise to new conjecture,
in regard to the southern extremity of the
globe. |

The natural action of the sun, arising from his
particular situation in the heayens, and his con-
tinuance above the horizon, as relates to the
Poles, I am aware is understood by those whose
attention has been directed to the temperature
of the extremities -of the globe; but by per-
sons generally, the subject is, perhaps, not’ ~
clearly comprehended. To them an illustration
of the movements of the sun, as regards the
Polar Regions, may be acceptable; and the
subject follows in connection with the sup-
position I have set forth in my Journal ; namely,
the prospect of’ reaching the South Pole.

The probability of a temperate Polar Region
depends not wholly upon the presence of the
sun, but greatly on the properties of matter at
and about the Poles. The questions which arise
from this latter consideration are, do the Polar
Regions contain water only, or land only, - or

STATE OF THE POLES. 98]

both ; and if the latter, what is the quality of
the land, and what is its proximity to the Poles?
Any one of these peculiar states will, notwith-
standing the constant and uniform action of the
sun during summer, produce a corresponding
change of atmospheric temperature.

There are only two states of the Polar Regions
which seem to afford a hope of their being ac-
cessible. The first, and most flattering sup-
position, is that of the extremities of the globe
being clear of’ land, and having a clear expanse
of ocean, reaching from about the 83° of latitude,
some degrees towards the Equator ; and the other
state is that of having land immediately about
the Poles, consisting of matter, capable of re-
taining through the winter part of the caloric
absorbed during summer.

As we know of no land nearer to the South
Pole than 204 degrees of latitude, or 1280
miles, and as I have ascertained that within
855 miles there is neither field, ice, nor land,
the supposition that the South Pole may be
covered with an expanse of water is at least
probable. |
_ The great obliquity of the sun’s rays in those
regions may be brought forward as an argument
for their insufficiency to produce a temperate
atmosphere ; but théir effects at and immediately .
about the Poles have never, to our knowledge,

formula. This seems to be the case in e
hemisphere respectively ; and about the latitude
of 60° the two hemispheres themselves differ
from each other very materially. The sun being
about seven days longer on the north side of the

* Let ¢ denote the mean temperature of any parallel of
which the latitude is 1, m the mean temperature in the lati-
tude of 45°, m + ¢ the mean temperature at the Equator ;
then is = m + e cosine 21; whence the mean tempera-
ture is readily ascertained. The mean temperature j in lati-
tude 45° is 58=m. At the Equator it is 85°, whence
85 — 58 = 27 =e; therefore, ¢ = 58 + 27 cosine 2 1,
which, when 2.1 is greater than 90°, the cosine being nega
tive, is less than 58.

STATE OF THE POLES. 983

Equator than on the south, may be assigned as
one reason for this difference of temperature ;
but, as he is about ,, part of his mean distance
nearer the earth on the 1st of January than on
the Ist of July, it is evident that he must be
nearer the earth from the 23d of September to
the 20th of March, than from the 20th of
March to the 23d of September ; and, therefore,
upon calculation, it will be found, that this latter
circumstance will more than counterbalance the
effect produced by his longer continuance on
the north side of the Equator.

Captain Scoresby found the mean annual tem-
_ perature of the latitude of 78° to be 16° below
the estimate by calculation; and in the latitude
of 61° south, 17° nearer to the Equator, I
found by observation the mean temperature of
the month of January to be nearly. 35° of
Fahrenheit. The mean temperature of the year
‘in that latitude, by the formula of Professor
‘Mayer, is 44° 5’.* We have not observations
sufficient to obtain the real annual temperature
of the latitude of 61°; but it must of course be
much lower than that of January, and must con-
sequently exhibit a great deviation from the re-
sult by calculation.

* Professor Leslie, in his notes to his Elements of Geome-
try, (p.461. 4th edit.) calculates the mean temperature of
latitude 61° to be 44° 3! .

284 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

This circumstance of remarkable frigidity in
a latitude, which in the northern hemisphere is
so temperate, strikingly exhibits the great effects
caused by the barren land of the Archipelago
of New South Shetland. In proceeding south-
wards, this deviation of observed temperature
from the result by calculation greatly diminishes;
so that in the latitude of 74° the formula ap-
proaches much nearer the truth. At the sum-
mer solstice this parallel will probably be much
warmer than that of 61°; and we may suppose,
that in winter the cold of these respective lati-
tudes will not materially differ. The little
change which I found in the temperature,
through a southern route of 13 degrees, as men-
tioned in the Journal of my voyage, is remark-

‘able, and accords with the observation made by
Professor Leslie*, in his calculations of the tem-
perature of the earth at different latitudes.

On the 8th of February the influence of the
sun’s rays must be very different at the Poles
from what it is in’ the latitude of 80°; for on
that day the sun passes round the South Pole,

* “ Very little increase of heat is therefore observed in
advancing through the torrid zone to the Equator; and the
intensity of the cold would not be sensibly augmented in
penetrating from the Arctic Circle to the Pole. The exist-
ence of an open sea towards the extreme north is hence not
improbable.” — Supplement, 3d vol. to the Encyclopedia
Britannica.

STATE OF THE POLES. 285

at the altitude of 15°, whilst in the latitude of
80° his altitude is diminished to 5°; at which
height it can produce but little effect on the
surface of the earth. The meridian altitude on
the above day (at 80°) is 25° 18’; but the time
of his being above the altitude of 15° is only
about half what it is at the Pole on that day.
In short, it is only from the constant and uni-
form action of the sun at those low altitudes
that an extraordinary degree of heat can be ex-
pected.

In bringing this subject as clearly to view as
possible, some observations on the movements
of the sun in our own latitude, compared with
those about the Poles, may be necessary by
way of illustration. When the sun is in the
first degree of the sign Cancer, on our longest
day, (the 21st of June,) the meridian altitude at
Greenwich is 61° 59’. When in the sign
Capricorn, (the 21st of December,) on our
shortest day, the meridian altitude is 15° 3’;
the mean meridian altitude is, therefore, 38° 30’,
The longest space of time during which the sun
is above the horizon in this latitude, (namely,
on the 2st of June,) is 16° 34’. The shortest
‘space, (namely, on the 21st of December,) is
7° 44’; hence the mean day or time that the
sun is above the horizon in the latitude of
Greenwich is 12° 9’. The temperature of this

sun’s presence for more than three months
the Pole is a most important circumstance ; and
‘when we consider the warmth of an unclouded
winter sun, when on the meridian, or at noon,
our curiosity is excited as to what his effects
must be where the action of the rays is constant
for so long a time as above mentioned.

The little warmth which we receive from the
sun, when under 5 degrees, is evident to every
one who has paid the least attention to the sub-
ject.

The extent of atmosphere through which the
rays have to pass, on account of their obliquity,
so refract and resist them, that they fall but

STATE OF THE POLES. 287

‘ faintly on the surface of the globe; but, at the
altitude of 15°, the rays of the sun pass through
so diminished an extent of atmosphere, that at
its mean density the refraction is reduced from
9’ 54” to 3’ 34”, and the calorific effect at 5°
is computed by Professor Leslie to be only -004;
but, at the altitude of 15°, it is increased to
‘084. ‘Fhe caloric transmitted from the sun to
the earth must, therefore, increase above the
altitude of 5° to 15° in a very compounded
‘ratio.

The action of the sun on the Polar Regions
must be even more powerful than is here
mentioned, for during three months (from the
38d of November to the 8th of February) the
sun is considerably above the altitude of 15° at
the South Pole. From the 22d of November till
the 20th of January (two months) of that time,
the sun is never below 20° ; and from the 11th of
December to the 1st of January, never below 23°;
being on the 21st of December 23°, 28’ and for
several days before and after that time about
the same altitude. 7

The continuance of the sun above the horizon
of the Poles for these periods, and at so con-
siderable altitudes, cannot fail to persuade us,
that the ices there must be annually dissolved,
and the Polar Regions assume an appearance as
in the annexed sketch.

oy

‘I am‘ hot aware that his philosophical observ-
ations on the state of the Poles‘have ever been
replied to: perhaps they have been thought too
chimerical to merit an answer; but the many
unsuccessful attempts which have been madé
to penetrate the Northern Polar Sea ‘seem, at
first sight, to favour his hypothesis; and it is only
by a close examination of his arguments, com-
pared with modern discovery, that the’errors of
his system can be detected. Actual observation
has afforded me proof of the fallacy of his con-
jectured Polar currents, (See his Studies of
Nature, p. 35.) ‘In our winter, the fluid ocean

STATE OF THE POLES. 2a9

descends from the frozen ocean of the South
Pole, at that time four or five thousand leagues
in citcumference, by the action of the sun,
' which melts the ice from the equinox of Septem.
ber to that of March.”

. On reference to the Journal of my voyage,
p. 46. it will be found, that the current which
set to the northward was in general scarcely |
perceptible; and on the 18th of February (see

p- 35.), it actually ran to the southward.

This proves, certainly, that the current he de-
scribes does not constantly prevail; but the
cupola he has fancied may exist. without pro-
ducing a northerly flood. If the Poles of the
world be pyramids of ice, as he asserts*, I am
of opinion that no such flood of ice waters as he
mentions could take place; for these supposed
cupolas must be the accumulation of, perhaps,
the age of the world, subject to a small change
in their formation by the change of the obliquity
of the’ ecliptic, and ages since they must have
reached that point of the atmosphere, above
which there is no condensation of vapour, and
consequently no addition to the mass, by means of
snow, could be produced. The height of these cu-
polas will of course depend on the quality of the
Polar atmosphere; but we cannot doubt that they

* This assertion I find quoted by respectable authors.
, U

290 OBSERVATIONS ON THE .

1
are much above the point of congelation iat the
summer solstice*, and therefore not subject: to
fusion by the sun’s rays. Around the water line of
the base of this imaginary pyramid some: fusion’
of ice would certainly be effected; but, the space
occupied by the ice immersed in water being
greater than that which it would fall into when
dissolved, the waters by this partial fusion could
scarcely be impelled enough to produce a cur-
rent. Snow and ice waters falling from land
must unquestionably produce currents: This.
appears during summer, in the innumerable
straits and channels situated in high northern
latitudes. When I further call in question the
statements made by St. Pierre, I feel sensible
that it is only by means of actual observation,
such as he had not the advantage of, that I am
able to refute his opinions. In accounting for
the universal deluge, by the fusion of the Polar
ices, he says, “Who then can doubt, that the
total effusion of the ices of the two Poles is suf-
ficient to overflow the bed of the ocean, and en-
tirely to inundate the two continents? Must not
the elevation of those two cupolas of) Polar ice,
vast as oceans, far surpass the height of the
most lofty lands, since the fragments) of their
* The mean temperature here being supposed to be 32° ;

the point of perpetual congelation is, therefore, in the hori-
zon.

STATE OF THE POLES. 291

extremities, when half dissolved, are.as high as
the turrets of Notre Dame, and even rise to the
height of fifteen or eighteen hundred feet above
the level of the sea ?”’

- This is certainly a mistake; and St. Pierre, we
may suppose, was led into this error by the ex-
aggerated. accounts of voyagers who had navi-

gated in high latitudes; for I know of no ice-
| bergs, afloat, at least in the south, of such a
height.. And those which are seen floating
about do not separate from the supposed Polar
glacier, but are formet in straits and indent-
ations of land; and they vary in size not so much
according to the latitude, above 60 degrees, in
the southern hemisphere, as by peculiarities of
the :coasts where they are formed. This evi-
dently appeared during my experience in the
south. The ice-islands seen in the latitude of
74° -were much less than others we know to
have been formed in the latitude of from 60 to
65 degrees. If we may draw an analogy for
' the south from the observations made by Cap-
tain Phipps on the northern glacier or ice
barrier (the southern not having been seen by
me), it appears evident,. that there is no coin-
cidence between the northern glacier, which
Captain Phipps (see his voyage, p. 60.) found to
be twenty-three feet deep, and those fragments
mentionéd by St. Pierre, of 1500 and 1800 feet

uU &

292 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

high; they cannot, therefore; have separated from
the base of the supposed pyramid. I am aware
that St. Pierre supposes this mass of ice to reach
over land as well as water; but into what latitude,
it may be asked, does the base of this cupola
extend? If the point of the South Pole be
reared to the top of the atmosphere, which must
be the case if such a cupola exist, how are we
to reconcile the circumstance of higher ice-bergs
being forined at the extremity, or base (as at
South Georgia), than 1200 miles nearer the sup-
posed point of greatest frigidity? Those ice-
islands seen by me ‘in latitude 74° had unques-
tionably been formed contiguous to land; and
should, according to the idea of increasing cold,
and the figure of a cupola, have been consider-
ably higher than those formed in latitude 54°
(in South Georgia). In this island they are
some miles in extent, and are fully 250 feet
high. If, then, the influence of the frigidity of
the Pole extends so far northward as to be capa- *
ble of producing such masses of ice, 2160 miles
distant from the Pole, it is a very remarkable
circumstance, that 1200 miles nearer to that
point the sea should be found unfrozen.

I am inclined to hazard an opinion, that the
effects of the sun, as caused by his alternate pre-
sence and absence on the two simple elements
of earth and water, will be periodically the same:

“STATE OF THE POLES. 208

- Water unconnected with Jand will undergo no
greater conversion into ice, during the absence
of the sun, than can be again destroyed by
his presence. No part of visible matter ex-
‘hibits a tendency to progress in any one state
indefinitely. All is alternate; and thus, by the
change of seasons in the frigid parts of the globe,
‘nature, whose energy is suspended during the ab-
sence of the sun, is, by his presence, again restored
te activity; so that we find, for instance, the
deer of Spitzbergen, in the latitude of 80° N.°*,
obtain their herbage annually, where the land is
so formed as to supply the demands of animal
life, We may receive with tolerable confidence
the opinion common to all who have written
‘theories of the earth, that the present distorted
form of the terrestrial part of the globe is pro-
bably wery different from that which it assumed
at the creation of the world. The primitive
state, philosophically considered, we may sup-
pose exhibited the earthy or lighter strata on the
surface of the globe, with a height not exceed-
ing the present low lands; and in such a state,
I am_of opinion, that every portion of the sur-
face of the globe, at its respective summer sol-

* Deer live and thrive in 80° of latitude on Spitzbergen,
but cannot live in 75° in Nova Zembla. — Barrow’s Voyages
into the Arctic Regions, p. $72.

u 3

(294 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

stice, would be at least free from ice, if not ha-
bitable. me

e irregular strata, which compose ‘nearly
all the landsin high latitudes, interfere materially
with the uniform operation of the sun, with
regard to the heating of those regions in which
they are placed.

The character which those parts of the earth
assume, by the accumulations of ‘ice and snow,
does not, however, exist entirely uncontrolled.
The rocky masses of land in the north have
exhibited many changes in their temperature,
according to their peculiar form, situation,
and quality, and the collections of ice on their
shores. But it may be remarked, that what-
ever accumulation of ice has been at various
times formed upon them, after the lapse of
a number of years has been removed, and
the countries have returned to their original
state. East Greenland, for example, is sup-
posed to have been once inhabited. The coun-
try was afterwards shut up by ice, and the-in-
habitants consequently perished by cold) and
hunger. The country remained enveloped in
ice for nearly three centuries, but is now again
accessible.

The aqueous part of the globe does uot ex-
hibit the same difference. In short, it can be

' $TaTE OF THE POLES. 205

little changed from the original quality it. pos-
sessed ‘at the formation of the world. The
waters of the Equator, and those of the highest
latitudes which have yet been attained, differ not
materially from one another in saltness and
density ; and, never having been affected in the
same manner as the earthy parts of the globe,
they may be supposed to become solid and fluid
alternately, in conformity to the presence or ab-
sence of the sun. Were the terrestrial parts of
the globe formed regularly, that is, by the
natural tendency of matter subsiding accord-
ing to'its specific gravity, the lighter and earthy
- part would occupy the upper stratum; which
formation, it may be observed, is most natural,
being indispensably necessary for the produc-
tion of vegetable matter, on which animal life —
depends for support. If such were the uni-
versal construction of the solid part of the
globe, I will venture to say, that no ice-islands —
would be found floating in the ocean, nor bergs
fixed upon the land, because the ices would be
annually dissolved.

Within the tropics, when the sun, in his course
over the meridian, passes through the zenith,
the excessive heat which is received during the
day is modified by a night of twelve hours,
and the whole of the torrid zone is tempered by
the sun’s change of declination, which is equal

: u 4

296 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

to an arc of 47 degrees every six months. If this
were not the case, animal life could not be sup-
ported in the Equatorial Regions, and every
thing inflammable would probably <a
ignited.*

No material change could take place in the
present form and motion of the earth, without
destroying entirely the general harmony which
exists in the economy of nature.

It is pleasing to observe, that from the Equator
to the Poles, as the continuance of the sun
above the horizon increases, so the meridian
altitude decreases; thus, by the obliquity of
his rays, too great an accumulation of heat is
prevented. ,

This harmony, arising from the regularity of
the sun’s motion in the ecliptic, Dr. Burnet, in
his Theory of the Earth, (vol. i. p. 188.) con-
siders not to have been the original order of
the solar influence ; but he supposes that, pre-
vious to the time of the deluge, the sun moved

* «The sun changes his declination every day in Venus,
about 14° more at a mean rate than he does in a quarter of
a year on our earth. This appears to be providentially or-
dered, for preventing the too great effects of the sun’s heat
(which is twice as great on Venus as on the earth, so that
he cannot shine perpendicularly on the same places for two
days together); and on that account the heated places have
time to cool.” —Brewster’s edition of Ferguson's Astronomy,
vol.i. p. 17.

‘STATE ‘OF THE POLES. 207

constantly in the Equator, producing a temper:
ature which, he says, caused perpetual spring.

My comments on this opinion shall not take
me beyond the consideration of the state of the
Poles, that being the sole object of my present
research,

In the case supposed by Dr. Burnet, the sun
would be constantly in the horizon of . the
Poles; and round these points, for ten degrees
at least, would consequently have perpetual
winter, whilst the Equatorial Regions would
experience insufferable heat. It is evident that
the whole space contained within the Polar
Circles would be covered with ice, formed by
the condenégations of the atmosphere, and which
would remain fixed, extending frigid influence
some degrees farther.

Following up the Doctor’s theory : _ The
eruption of the earth, which he supposes de-
stroyed the primitive, and produced the present
state of the globe, and which changed the po-
sition of the Poles 234 degrees, we may sup-
pose would destroy the Polar ices, and leave
the extremities of the globe unencumbered ;
but if, from the creation of the world, the sun
has travelled the same course in the heavens,
or, in other words, the axis of the earth has
always had the same inclination to its orbit,
which is the most probable conjecture, then

298 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

the conclusion, as relates to the Poles, will be very
different.*

The various ices of the Poles we cannot sup-
pose were produced immediately at the creation,
they must, have been produced by successive
winters; and, since the temperature at the Poles,
at.the summer solstice, is one-fourth greater
than at the Equator, may we not reasonably
imagine that the heat of the sun during the sum-
mer which succeeded the first winter, would be
sufficient to reduce to fluidity the ices which had
been produced? In this consideration, I am
supposing the Poles, as to their quality of matter,
to be in one or other of the two states men-
tioned at page 281.

Many parts of Russia experience the extra-
ordinary degree of summer heat, arising from
the long space of' time that the sun is above the
horizon. At St. Petersburg, in the latitude of
60°, the heat during the month of July I have
myself experienced to be greater than that of
the West Indies; and were the sun’s rays to
fall less obliquely on that part of Russia, ve-

* Professor Leslie, in the Supplement, vol. iii. of the Ency-
clopedia Britannica, observes: “ At the Pole itself, during
the complete circuit of the ‘sun in midsummer’s ‘day, the
measure of heat would be greater than at the Equator, by
about ith, or 797 thousand parts. The continued endurance
of the sun above the horizon more than compensates for
the feebleness of, his oblique rays.”

. STATE: OF THE. POLES. * 299

getation would be destroyed by the violent and
almost continual action of his rays. An extract
from Captain Scoresby’s Voyage to the North is
descriptive of the powerful effects of the sun,
where he continues for a great length of time
above the horizon. (See p. 343.) ‘ The total
‘freeness from clouds of the atmosphere near
‘shore is often remarkable. The sun sometimes
sweeps for days together round and round the
heavens without for a moment being: concealed
- by-a cloud. The heat on shore, I have had
‘occasion to remark, is in such cases very in-
tense. The constant action of the sun, without
‘the suspension of night, produces an influence
on the vegetation, which exceeds, perhaps, any
thing that elsewhere occurs even in the finest
‘regions of the globe.” : :
In the calculations made for the comparative
temperature between that of the Pole and other
latitudes, the accumulation of heat produced by
‘the continued action of the sun is not taken into
account; though such accumulation is great and .
quite apparent in many common experiments.
I should, in another part of these sheets, perhaps,
have introduced the following considerations re-
garding the probable deposit of congealed matter
about the Poles ; but, as I have not immediately
digressed from the subject of the peculiarities
of the Polar Regions, the apparently detached

300 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

mode of treating it may not be materially ob-
jectionable.

I suppose that during’ the depth of winter the
Polar atmosphere becomes so divested of hu-
midity, by intense frost, as to afford little matter
for condensation in the form of snow; for when
the Polar Regions have received their winter
covering of snow and ice, the caloric of the
land or water is thereby prevented from escaping,
and little or no evaporation can go on.

“In the month of July, for example, when
the mean point of deposition may be taken in
this latitude (56°) at 45°, the quantity of mois-
ture in the air is 0-2099 grains in 100 cubic
inches; whereas, in the month of December,
when the mean point of deposition is 15° lower,
the quantity of moisture in the same volume of
air is only 0-1278 grains.” — Edinburgh Philoso-
phical Journal, No. 21. p. 165.

The estimate made by Captain Parry, (Second
Voyage, p. 200.) in regard to the quantity of
snow which fell during five winter months, about
the latitude of 66 degrees, was 44 inches; but
allowing, as he supposes, that as much had been
carried off by wind, the accumulation of snow,
during the whole five months of winter, would
still not exceed the depth of 9 inches. It is
impossible to infer exactly, from what fell in this
latitude, what quantity would fall during the

STATE OF THE POLES. 801

same period at the Poles; but, for the above
reason, of the Polar atmosphere probably pos-
sessing less humidity, the falls of snow would be
_ proportionably less. If the Polar Region be an.
expanse of water, the next object of enquiry
is, what is the probable annual production of ice?
Captain Parry’s estimate of the depth of ice
formed during five winter months, in the lati-
tude of 66°, is the best analogy afforded fot
calculating that at the Poles; the thermometer |
having frequently, during that time, indicated
a temperature of 31° below zero of Fahrenheit.
He says, (Second Voyage, p. 186.) ‘The thick-
ness of the floe was here 4 feet '7 inches, being
the produce of exactly five calendar months..
The ice was hard, brittle, and transparent, till
within six or eight inches of the lower surtace,
where it became soft and porous, allowing the
water to filter through it. In the offing, or. in
deep water, the production of ice was very
slight when the thermometer stood at 81°.”” By
analogy, according to this estimate, we may
suppose that the winter production of ice at the
Poles is not so enormous but that the more than
equatorial heat of summer, which is presumed
to exist there, will dissolve it.
The temperature of the sea-water in high
northern latitudes. is much above what might
be expected if the Pole were a cupola of ice.

3802 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

Captain Ross found the temperature of the
sea to the northward of Davis’s Straits, about the
latitude of 72°, at the depth of six, seyen, and
eight hundred fathoms, to be 284° ; and Captain
Parry, at similar depths, found it 28°; whereas
Captain Phipps, in the latitude of 75", in the
Spitzbergen Sea, at the depth. of 600. fathoms,
found the temperature of the water to be 40°;
and on the 4th of August, in the latitude of
80 degrees, 60 fathoms under the ice, he found
the temperature to be 39°, From what source
can we suppose that these eleven degrees of heat
above the freezing point of salt water were de-
rived? It could not proceed from the southward 5
for, as. mentioned by Captains Ross and. Parry,
at great depths the temperature has been found
to be about 28°. The increase of heat was not
generated at the surface, for that was at. 36°;
and the air was at 32°. It most probably came
from the Polar Region, where the water, by,

_ being “heated to a temperature..of 70 or 80
degrees, would be so expanded as to force -its
way ‘southwards to obtain: level.* -.The. in-
capacity of water to conduct caloric downwards,

* According to the experiments of Mr. Dalton, on the
gravity and expansion of water under different temperatures,
the bulk of water at 5° is equal to the same bulk of water

at 80°. — eiciabieel Memoirs, vol. v. ps 574.
‘ “

STATE OF THE POLES.: 303

and the rays of the sun exhausting their calorific
effects in passing through a depth of not more than
three or four fathoms, makes it difficult to con-
ceive how the heated waters of the Pole could
find their way to the depth of sixty fathoms.
Supposing them to be heated to the temperature
of 70° or 80°, they would become specifically
lighter than the waters of the sea in the latitude
of 80°; but those of the Pole coming in contact
with.ice, or a colder stratum of water, might be
cooled to what Captain Phipps found it, 39°;
and this being nearly the maximum density of
‘water, it would sink beneath that at the surface,
which was at a temperature of 36°.* |

Captain Scoresby reached the latitude of 80°
$3’, so early as the month of April, and on the
80th of that month, about the latitude of 80°, he
observed a striking instance of the calorific effects
of the sun. (See his Voyage to the North in the
year 1822, p. 33.) The sun broke through the
clouds at the same time, and produced a power-
ful effect on the temperature. At 2 A.M. the
thermometer was 3° or 4° below zero, and at 8
A.M. it was + 6°; and, at 10, about 14° in the
shade. But the genial influence of the sun was still
more striking ; in a sheltered air it produced the

* The density of water at 32°, and at 53°, is precisely the
same; hence the maximum density of water is 42°5.—
Manchester Memoirs.

304, OBSERVATIONS ON THE

feeling of warmth ; the black paint of the side of _

the ship on which the sun shone was heated to
the temperature of 90° or 100°, and the pitch
about the bends became fluid. Thus, while on
one side there was uncommon warmth, on the
opposite was intense freezing.

Although I have, in another place, mentioned
the calorific effects experienced in the latitude
of 80°, to afford but a weak atialogy for deduc-
tions respecting the state of the Pole, that ob-
servation applies to the motion of the sun round
the horizon; but from this phenomenon, wit-
nessed by Captain Scoresby, an inference may
be drawn for the strength of the sun’s action at
the Pole at the summer solstice, when the alti.

tude is 28° 28’,
Supposing the ship in the latitude of 80° 19’

at noon, and to continue at rest in the position
described by Captain Scoresby, the sun, when
under the Pole, would have declined in his re-
volution, to the altitude of 5° 8’ on the frozen
side of the ship, at which altitude, from the
extreme obliquity of his rays, he would produce
scarcely any warmth, whilst the already heated
side would have time to cool. But, again, suppose
the ship revolved slowly round once in twenty~
four hours, and that the sun remained at the
altitude of 24° 21’, which would be nearly the
meridian altitude at that place ; or, that the sun

STATE OF THE POLES. 805

revolyed round the ship, which would be the
same thing, it cannot be doubted, that every
part of the ship, in a few revolutions, would be-
come temperately heated, and, after a consider-
able succession of revolutions, would suffer by
too great an accumulation of caloric. The re-
sult of the sun’s action at the Poles would there-
fore not be materially different from that men-
tioned by Captain Scoresby, as having been the
effect of the meridian sun in the latitude of 80°.

The meridian altitude at the Pole, at the sum-
mer solstice, would be only 53’ lower than that
in the case above mentioned ; and, though the
heat absorbed by a sheet of water, supposing
the region of the Pole to be such, would not
be equal to that taken up by the dlack side of
a ship, yet it would be considerable. I have sup-
posed the ices of the Poles to be dissolved by
the 21st of June; for, although the process of
the fusion of ice is slow, it having no less than
140 degrees of caloric to absorb, before it can
become fluid, yet, the sun having swept the
horizon for nearly two months, advancing from
the altitude of 15° to 23° 28’, we may conclude
his effects to have been sufficient to accomplish
the dissolution of those ices.

The intervention of the rays by fogs and
clouds, both of which are prevalent in high
northern latitudes, would, of course, lessen the

x

(306 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

effects of the sun; but in regard to the Antare-
tic Region, I remarked, during my navigation
“in those seas, that the atmosphere became less
Joaded with vapour as we proceeded southwards,
“till, in the latitude of 74° 15’, the sky was almost
without a cloud. ‘

» By referring to the annexed figure, it will be
seen in how rapid a proportion the length of
“day, or the sun’s continuance above the hori-
zon, increases from the Arctic and Antarctic
Circles to the Poles, thereby affording at those
points more than an equivalent of heat for the
obliquity of’ his rays.

Were the globe elongated at the Poles, so
that each extremity resembled the small end of
an egg, the intervention of night, which in such
case would take place during summer, as well as
winter, in the latitude of 80°, would probably
be sufficient to fill that region with ice ; but, the
earth being globular, or rather flatted at the
Poles, as the sun approaches the regions within
the Arctic and Antarctic Circles, they enjoy-his
presence for a longer time, in proportion to the
rapid contraction that takes place in the circles
of latitude, as may be understood by the an-
nexed diagram. In the figure, the strait lines
represent diameters of circles of latitude, all of
which, by the diurnal motion of the earth, re-

_Volve in equal spaces of time; but, from the

oe

STATE .OF THE. POLES. | 307

spherical. form of the globe, they exhibit great
differences in the length of day and night. The
sun, S, being placed at an assumed distance, it
may be seen, that the ray A, proceeding from
the.sun to the Pole, P, from which the sun ap-
pears at an angle of 28° 28’ above the horizon,
cannot, by the diurnal motion of the earth, be
either raised or depressed, as there is nothing in
that situation to intercept it. But, in the lati-
tude of 80°, and at the point B, at midnight,
when the sun is under the Pole, the segment of
the earth that lies between that latitude and the
Pole will, by its convexity, reduce the altitude
to 18°. At the Arctic Circle, C, at midnight,
the segment contained between it and the Pole
being equal to the altitude of the sun at that
point, he will, of course, appear in the horizon.
An observer, at the point D, on the Arctic
Circle, will perceive the sun on the meridian, at
an angle of 46° 56’, with the horizon. But,
' when the observer is carried half round that
circle, by the diurnal motion of the earth, which
brings midnight, as at C, the sun will appear in
the horizon ;' his depression being equal. to the
segment C P D (46° 56’). Hence it appears
evident, that the altitude of the sun at midnight
will increase as this segment becomes shortened,
or, in other words, as you approach the Pole ;
and there, at the summer solstice, the segment -
| x 2

808 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

being reduced to a point, oe
Pole at nearly the same altitude.

The diameters of the circles of latitude at 10
and 20 degrees differ but very little from that
of the Equator; and, consequently, the days do
not vary much in length: but, above the latitude
of 20°, it may be seen, that towards the Pole
the diameters diminish very fast, keeping the
sun longer in view as they become shortened,
till beyond the Arctic Circle, where, at the sum-
mer solstice, he never disappears.

Notwithstanding all that has been said for the
open state of the Poles, two instances of modern
experiment have proved, beyond a doubt, the
’ impracticability of at present penetrating the
Northern Polar Circle. Captains Phipps and
Ross, in their respective attempts at different
points within the Arctic Circle, have reached
the utmost navigable limit; but, in both cases,
they were entangled with land, from which, pro-
bably, arose the impediments of ice they met
with.

As the northern termination of Greenland
has not yet been discovered, it may not unlikely
extend to the northward of Spitzbergen, and
thence to the eastward, supporting that glacier
of ice along which Captain Phipps coasted in
search of an opening.

From the direction of the east coast of Green-

STATE OF THE POLES. 309

land, and the position of the northern shores of
the Arctic land in general, it is not improbable
that a range of’ islands extends quite round the
Polar Circle, terminating the nortletn extre-
mities of Europe, Asia, and America, and
forming charnels which will be constantly en-
cuttfbered with ice. The disjoined state of lands
already known in high latitudes supports this
conjecture.

We are credibly informed that the latitude of
S1° 50’ was reached by Captain Scoresby, senior 3
but previols accounts cannot be equally de-
pended on. The Dutch navigators; whose
method of observation, from the imperfection of
their instruments at that time, was subject: to'
muth inaccuracy, pretend to have. been driven
by gales and currents mto the latitude of 88° ;
and, om one occasion, mto 89° 40’; but these
accounts are void of credibility. In the Edin-
burgh Review some more modern voyages aré
taken notice of; which appear to be well authen- |
ticated: (See No. 58. p. 331.)' “ In‘ 1616,
Baffiy advanced: iy Davrs’s Straits as high as
the latitude of 78 degrees. ‘Fhe same skilful
navigator had, two years before, penetrated im the
Greenland seas, to the latitude of 8°, and seen
land as high as that of 82°, lying to the north:
east. of Spitzbergen; but it is mortifying. to
yéenturk, how little progress has beéi made m

x 3

310, OBSERVATIONS ON THE

geographical discovery since those early and in-~
trepid adventurers explored the Arctic Regions
with their humble barks, which seldom exceeded
the size of fifty tons. i
We must pass over a very long interval to.
obtain authentic information, In 1751, Captain
M‘Callam, whom Barnington calls a: scientific
seaman, sailed without obstruction from Hack--
luyt’s Headland, as high as the latitude of 834°,
where he found an open sea; and the weather
being fine, nothing hindered him from pro-
ceeding further but his responsibility to his’
owners for the safety of, the ship. Captain.
Wilson, about the end of June, 1754,, haying.
found the sea quite clear as far as he could
descry, advanced to the latitude of 83°, till,
not meeting with any whales, and beginning
to apprehend some danger, he shaped back his
course. At this very time Captain Guy, after
four days of foggy weather, was likewise carried
to the same point. The Polar Seas at this period
must, indeed, have been remarkably open ;\ for
one of the most extraordinary and best authen-
ticated voyages was performed in 1754, by Mr,
Stephens, a very skilful and accurate observer,
whose testimony is put beyond all manner of
doubt by the cool judgment of the late astro-
nomer royal, Dr, Maskelyne. This navigator
informed Dr. Maskelyne, that about the end of

STATE OF THE ‘POLES. Sif

May he was driven off Spitzbergen by a southerly
wind, which blew for several days, till he had
reached ‘the latitude of 844°, and that in the
whole of this run he met with little ice, and
no drift wood, and did not find the cold to be
anywise excessive. |

The credibility of these latter statements of
the Polar Sea having been penetrated, appear
scarcely to admit of being called in question ;
particularly that of the voyage related by Mr.
Stephens ; but, -it is much to be regretted, that
the accounts of these voyages were not published
with such details as would corroborate the ge-
neral statement, which would have been much
‘more satisfactory than traditionary report. —

Mercantile pursuits have not afforded equal
means for obtaining information of the southern
regions; nor have experiments for arriving at the
South Pole been persevered in by governments
or public boards of science.

The barrier of ice which Captain Cook met
with in latitude 71° 10’ was considered to be
the glacier of the ice of the Pole, and con-
sequently closed all speculation on the possibility
of reaching it. | ; |

The continents of the two hemispheres ter-
- minate at very different points of latitude. The

southern extremity of the continent of Asia lies
to the northward of the Equator, and {hose of
x 4

$12 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

' Africa and America in the south, terminate in
mere peninsulas. ‘The South Pacific and Atlantic
Islands are inconsiderable when. compared with
the expanse of ocean in which they are. scat-
tered, whilst, the lands of the northern hemi-
sphere terminate within the Arctic Circle, The
western extremity of South Shetland lies within
the Antarctic Circle, and that is the most
southern land which has yet been discovered.

By a glance at the map of the Polar parts of
the two hemispheres, it will be seen how many
miore points of access there are to the South
Pole than to that of the North. The only
openings to the northern Polar Regions are by
Bhering’s Straits, and by the Spitzbergen Sea,
forming together not more than one ninth of the
Circle of the seventieth degree of latitude.

The Antarctic Regions are differently cir-
cumstanced as regards land, for we know of
none to the south of 694; and that is reported
to be an island of small extent, and probably is
a part of the Archipelago of South Shetland,

The difficulty attendant on the navigation
of the Antarctic Sea, so far as I have seen, con-
sists in having to pass through chains of ice
islands, floating between the latitudes of sixty
and about seventy-one. Within little more than
this portion of both hemispheres, probably, the
principal ices will be met with,

‘STATE OF THR POLES. 813

Iw standing southwards there is little doubt
but that heavy field-ice would be fallen in with,
which had been formed in bays or straits, and
which hdd thence drifted into deep water.
These obstaclea, however, though a little em.
barrassing, might perhaps without much difficulty
be passed.

Two Russian ships on discovery m the year
1821, are reported to have reached the latitude
of 70°, and it is said were prevented by ice
from going farther.* I teached about 255 miles
nearer the Pole, and met with no such ob-
struction.

The barriers to the attainment of experimental
knowledge are, however, often produced by an
unlucky coneurrence of circumstances. The
noblest efforts are frequently blasted by some
untoward event, which not only, perhaps, affects
the interest of the persons engaged, but leads to
false conclusions as to the possibility of ulti-.
mately obtaining the object desired.

* Bellinghausen’s Voyage. — The Russian voyage of dis-
covery towards the South Pole did not reach so high a lati-
tude as Captain Weddell, whose voyage is noticed at p. 146.
For the chief of the expedition, Captain Bellinghausen,
says, ‘“‘ We continued our cruise to the south-east, sailing

~ between large masses of ice; but, notwithstanding all our
efforts, we never could pass the 70° of south latitude, and
this only in one place. In all others, we could only ad-

vance 692" ”? —-Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, No. 23.
p. 177.

314 OBSERVATIONS ON THE POLES.

Probably no part of science is more subject
to erroneous conclusions than that of hydro-
graphy. Supposititious islands have been seen
through a hazy atmosphere which in reality
never had existence ; and those which have been
actually seen have been sometimes incorrectly
laid down, by reason of’ adverse circumstances,
such as having been seen at a great distance,
or by reason of darkness or fogs.

The most patient and diligent research is
always necessary to the attaining a correct
knowledge of those parts of science of which
I have treated in the foregoing pages: and if I
have contributed, by my private adventure, to the
advancement of hydrography, I conceive that I
have only done that which every man would
endeavour to accomplish, who, in the pursuit
of wealth, is at the same time zealous enough in
the cause of science to lose no opportunity of
collecting information for the benefit of man-
kind.

SECOND VOYAGE

OF

THE BEAUFOY —
TO

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

JAMES WEDDELL, BR. N.

wh

Sib Hall. Seulp*

SECOND VOYAGE.

Tuerz having been no specific object of hydro-
graphical discovery either projected or attempted
in this adventure, I would not have thought
necessary to record the circumstances, were it
not that Mr. Brisbane, following my instructions,
in the. prosecution of his voyage, revisited those
peculiar people the Fuegians.. |

The progressive improvement of a friendly
tribe of men, originally found in a rude state,
cannot be a matter of unconcern to the generally
benevolent part of mankind; and under that
impression I have ventured to bring forward
some further observations on the condition of
these uncultivated Australians.

Although little as yet can be said of their
advancement in knowledge, they have decidedly
evinced a mild and pacific disposition, and also
an anxious desire for the assistance of strangers.

318 SECOND VOYAGE

Considering the cruelties which have been
committed by the greater number of other savage
nations, which have been almost always found
untractable and ferocious, the humane dis-
position possessed by the Fuegians merits our
attention. © .

The object of the Beaufoy’s voyage was to
procure the furs of seals and other animals in
the South Seas.

Mr. Brisbane sailed from the Downs on the
23d of August, 1824; and, after coasting eastern
Patagonia and touching at the Falkland Islands,
on the 16th of October, 1825, he arrived at
Tierra del Fuego, and anchored in Maxwell’s
harbour.

On the 18th, a party of about twenty of the
natives came along-side the Beaufoy, in their
canoes, and after a little ceremony on their part,
by way of salutation, they hurried on board.

Of these Fuegians, several had been visitors on
board the Jane and Beaufoy in the year 1823,
and though nearly two years had elapsed, they,
at.once, knew Mr. Brisbane and several of the
crew. In order to be identified as former
friends, the medals which had been given them
on the Beaufoy’s preceding voyage were pro-
duced ; but after this interview they were never
to be.seen: probably from fear of having them
reclaimed.

TO TIERRA: DEL. FUEGO. 819

... Full liberty was given them to come.and go
throughout the day, and, till the 17th of De-
_.cember, a number of the-natives were frequently
on board. Mr. Brisbane’s account of their be-
- haviour, while he was among them, strongly
marks the uniformityof their character. They
conducted themselvéé in the same pacific man-
ner as formerly, and by this further communi-
cation, their knowledge of the advantages of
the arts and intelligence possessed by us ap-
peared conspicuously. ‘Their sick applied re-
gularly for medical aid, and the women even
presented their afflicted children for assistance.

The practice of pilfering was continued with
their usual dexterity, but never aggravated by
ferocious insult on being detected. Their petty
thefts were sometimes, however, accompanied
by ingratitude; as, particularly, in one instance
of a’man, who, while in the cabin getting a
wound in his leg dressed, took that opportunity
of requiting the favor by stealing a tumbler.

No doubt the principal object of this theft
was. to obtain a glittering substance; for while
I was among those people, I endeavoured to
impress on their minds the convenience of
having a well constructed vessel for holding
liquids, by giving them several articles of that
description. All these were accepted, but
never made use of for the purpose I had in-

320 SECOND VOYAGE

tended. The buckets, and other iron-bound
utensils were broken down in order to obtain
the hoops; and to possess these, every’ consider-
ation connected with our ideas of comfort was
sacrificed. .

Their’ own rudely-formed calabash, made
from the bark of a tree, could be’ better en-
dured than to) suffer their precious metal to re-
main fastened up with any other substance to
form a vessel for a similar use.

In each canoe they generally carry a large
calabash, containing about six gallons, which
is filled with water on leaving the shore; and
their mode of drinking out of it is through the
thigh-bone of the albitross, which is inyerted
into the mouth of the vessel.

Several amusing absurdities were played off
by the natives: but, as I have described their
ludicrous character in the Journal of my visit in
1823, it is unnecessary to repeat the further in-
stances of their tricks.

Mr. Brisbane frequently employed them in
the labours of. the ‘ship, at which they were by
no means inactive. Though they still were ex-
ceedingly fond of a repast of seal-fat, and other
gross substances, they frequently partook of
ship’s fare with apparent relish; but spirituous
liquors they could not be brought to like.

Their friendship and confidence was mani-

TO TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 321

fested by inviting our people into their wig-
wams; a privilege which was not conceded
during my stay among them. -

No appearance of a sense of religion was
discoverable. Mr. Brisbane frequently ob-
served them gabbling, for a quarter of an hour
together, seemingly to the water; but nothing
conclusive could be drawn from this circum-
stance.

In an excursion into the woods two dead
bodies were found stretched on the ground, in
such a manner as conveyed an idea that they
had been placed there by way of sepulture.
Mr. Brisbane had them interred, and frequently
requested their countrymen to accompany him
to the spot, that he might show them the nature
of burial; but they always refused to proceed
in that direction. Most probably this arose
from a feeling peculiar to them, in relation to
their departed friends.

Mr. Brisbane’s attempt to instruct the natives
in this particular could scarcely be expected
to succeed; aS we must suppose that, before
they can acquire proper notions regarding the
performance of a duty which calls forth the
finest sympathies of our nature, they must be
assisted by foreigners in the simple means of ob-
taining a better subsistence. In consequence of
their local disadvantages, nature does not afford

¥

JAMES WEDDELL, R. N.

THE END.

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